When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I recently rebuilt top end, single fire ultima, EVL 3020 cam, Wiseco 10:1, honed jugs, replaced the stupid plastic **** with steel. It has stock pipes w/ screamin eagle II slip ons, k&n, w/ external breather. CV40 carb
My question is I don't have timing gun so do you adjust the timing then the carb by ear/feel. I've been tweaking on both but it's idling weird and kinda sluggish just above idle like rolling thru the hood. I'm not sure what might be the new cam or if it's not tuned right.
Anybody have a good procedure for how they go about this?
It almost sounds like one cylinder is double firing more than the other sometimes.
I can try to record it and post a link if that will help?
Thanks
Last edited by Lando Evo; Sep 26, 2024 at 08:27 AM.
Had 45, 180, 2.5 turns out before rebuild. I'm at 50, 195, 3 turns out now
Those jets are too big, especially the 50, try 46 185. I have a similar setup and 46 is plenty, perhaps that won't be perfect but it will be a good starting point. The "double firing" is most likely unburnt fuel lighting up in the exhaust. Did you check your VOES?
If you got the rear cylinder that seems lazy, chances are you got too much timing.. I'd install a nose cone ignition (dynatek) and start with curve 2, timing set statically. They have a light on the module to use. Go from there.. Nice thing about a digital ignition is that you don't need a timing light to check the advance.
You can time the Ultima by turning it using the led light, it will get you really close. Double check your dip switches on the ignition. The 50 is to fat.
You can time the Ultima by turning it using the led light, it will get you really close. Double check your dip switches on the ignition. The 50 is to fat.
If you got the rear cylinder that seems lazy, chances are you got too much timing.. I'd install a nose cone ignition (dynatek) and start with curve 2, timing set statically. They have a light on the module to use. Go from there.. Nice thing about a digital ignition is that you don't need a timing light to check the advance.
I have an ultima set on curve 2. I don't know how to use the light on the module. It just flashes really fast. I static timed it but had bad pinging at WOT.
45 is close enough to the 46 that I don't think you will notice a difference using either one. Change it to curve 3 and see if your pinging goes away or at least reduced. Curve #3 takes away a little more on the timing and it advances a touch slower so it could be an easy way to tell if your on the right track of thinking you have too much timing.
If the timing and re-jetting don't cure your issue, then start thinking intake seals sucking air.
I have an ultima set on curve 2. I don't know how to use the light on the module. It just flashes really fast. I static timed it but had bad pinging at WOT.
You use the LED by setting the timing statickly . Use TDC front compression. Pull the plugs and back the crank before TDC, Place the motor in top gear and bump the crank forward until the LED goes out.. It should go out with when the TDC line of the crank is in the center of the window. At that point you have the timing of the curves shown in the instructions. When messing with the timing, you can move the mark to the left edge of the hole and effectively retard the timing about 3 degrees. Likewise you can do the towards the right to advance.
If it's pinging thought-out the range, try curve 3 like Yankee says. Make sure your Voes is working if you have one. In the case of pinging, IMO you need to retard the timing at least 3 degrees. 1 or 2 might stop the ping but you'll make more power going 3. I've always made more power retarding a couple after the pinging stops on a dyno..
The ignition timing curves of the Ultima are a lot more aggressive in ramping than the Dynatek.. Of the 2, I would use the Dynatek but seeing you have the Ultima go by the directions to set the base timing and set to curve 3. You should be ok.. And as others have said test the VOES..
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
DIY Time and Tune - 99 FLSTC
