This is a continuation of

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo/1...appearing.html

Of everything going back together.

TLDR. Motor had excessive oil burn due to many factors explained in old thread. While apart I decided to go a bit crazy.

Bike : 1998 FL Road King 33k miles started life as a E Glide Standard. Then custom converted to a Road King.

Bored 20 over
10:1 Weisco Forged Pistons
Heads reworked by Hammer with beehive springs, competition Valve grind and some massaging.
Hammer Performance Pushrods
S&S Big Race tappets
S&S Breather Gear
Reaper 543 Cam
S&S 2-1-2 Headers
S&S 4” Slash Cut Mufflers
EZ Pull Clutch Kit
oil pump reseal kit
Cometic Gasket Kit
S&S Head studs
Billet Proof Tappet block alignment kit

Things are starting to go back together. Thanks to everyone so far that has helped. Building up an Evo is a first for me but I have grown up building hot rods and currently work building Street rods and Muscle cars doing all out builds to full on rewiring and custom stuff. So I have the tools and knowledge just need some guidance.

I fought shimming the cam due to some errors in data and confusion but now with a .050” shim and the factory thrust washer with a crushed gasket I’m at .024” of end play. I could make it tighter but it starts running the cam off the front (outer) part of the pinion.

Breather won’t need a shim as it’s within spec without one.


there has been some discussion about the Cam probably not designed for a heavyweight bike. Originally we discussed the Evo 5005 but it’s been unavailable to his vendor and I discussed wanting a cam that ran well on the highway and freeway running with power to passs. The reaper 543 was swapped to the list. Granted it has a dip in the low end torque. But it’s still better than the N Grind that came out. So will see how it works I guess.




ignore the yellow mark on the pinion. That is my mark to see the timing mark. There was no marks on the cam or pinion that I can see.

And yes I had my old cams gear pressed on the new cam.

 

pinion gear will have mark, but is a PITA to find, since its half hidden by the nut (guessing you found, and why the yellow paint).



Cam gear should have two marks (can see the one for breather and second should be behing the shaft up to the right), and can see T mark on breather valve valley, to mate up with cam tooth mark that is visable..

As for no spacer for breather, would see about adding something (even if flush with button), since better to have nylon rubbing on the inside of the nose cone cover, then metal against metal instead.

 

I wish I had a garage to do things like this. I love to tinker on my bikes but everything I do has to be done in the driveway which makes things difficult and limits me to smaller jobs.

 

Yep. Yellow paint is marking the timing mark. I wasn’t worried about aligning marks yet. I was simply figuring my end play out. And good idea on the breather shim. I can easily shave down the thinnest one to be flush.

 

This one tooth looks a little suspicious.. Could be the lighting..

 

It’s reflection oddly. Gears look okay for 30k miles. Also why I chose to swap the old cam gear on the new cam. Make it as quiet as possible. That and I hadn’t fully cleaned out the cam chest since I pulled everything apart so there is some trash in there. I had a few rags and a towel over the open block but stuff still finds a way to attach to lightly oily surfaces.


I’ve got to pull the trans cover and oil fill off of it still to remove the original exhaust bracket. And take my oil pump apart to check the gears and reseal it. Then hopefully I can start focusing on dropping jugs back on and sealing up the motor again.

 

The S&S 2/2 head pipes but I went with the 4” slash cuts over these. Wanted as free of flowing exhaust and not worry about reversion popping anymore. With all the head work I had done I want to maximize flow.

 

@Bubba Zanetti I've done some crazy stuff in driveways and under car ports. Built a crazy SBC for a friend in his driveway under a makeshift tarp tent in the winter back in 1999. (When it snowed 27”!!) Still has the truck and just rolled over 150k on the motor. Been a strong motor and a daily driver doing 75 miles a day.
81 Chevy K10 Silverado. His dad bought it new and never intends of selling it. We stripped all the OPEC emissions off it as well.

So don’t let your dreams of doing any work in the driveway get away. Lots of us have been there and made it work. Just keep things dry and covered up and sealed the best you can if you live in a wet environment. A bit of WD 40 helps as well.

 

Final 2 gaskets are ordered. Tomorrow is game day. Lots to do, hopefully by days end I’ll have the cam chest sealed back up, the jugs on and possibly the heads.


I have to pull the trans and oil filler covers off to remove the exhaust bracket. So Drain fluids.

still have to pull the oil pump apart as well.

Hopefully tomorrow will be better than last week. Ending up in the ER again.

 

Got the oil pump checked out, new seals and put back on the bike. Not a fun job on the bike. Them woodruff keys are a pain. Got it all back together to realize I forgot to reinstall the small clip outer gear. Back apart install clip.

But in process found more evidence the motor.has definitely been out totally. Couple hoses have worm gear clamp impressions under the OE style clamps.


On that subject anyone have a lead.on a handful of the OE clamps? My local Tacoma Screw used to carry them. No longer.have the smaller ones. HD wants $5
a pop for them.