EVO All Evo Model Discussion

1988 shocks

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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 11:03 PM
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Default 1988 shocks

I have a 1988 Heritage Softail. My rear shocks are worn out. It bounces around and bottoms easily. My question is what alternative shocks are out there? I know that after 1988 the shock design changed so later model shocks won't work. It seems no after market company makes replacements at least not that I can find. Any help is appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 06:08 AM
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Seeing 2 offered by Dennis Kirk. I'm sure there are more.
https://www.denniskirk.com/shocks-an...-classic-flstc
 
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 07:40 AM
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Would need to see the shocks to be sure, but do believe that they are rebuild-able, and your looking at around $40 in parts to rebuild them your self, including fork oil as well.
 

Last edited by Dano523; Jan 28, 2025 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 11:08 AM
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I have a ‘88 FLST and would also be interested in finding an answer. I’m not sure either one of the shocks posted above (linked from Dennis Kirk) will work. The OE shocks have a remote canister and neither of the linked ones have that… one of the comments states that the shock is too fat to fit.
Good luck, hopefully someone will have an answer that will help us both.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 01:36 PM
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Dano is right about the rebuild but only fro the non-charged side.

I have no first hand it this, but I'd try the ones linked above. They are listed as 2" OD so measure what you have, go from there. They are adjustable length also.

This topic has come up numerous time I don't recall the solution. If you get it sorted out, please post what you did.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by t150vej
Dano is right about the rebuild but only fro the non-charged side.
Solved by adding nitrogen charge fitting ports, since HD had the manufacturer leave them off, so HD could sell more shocks, isntead of them just being rebuilt and recharged as needed instead..

Thank god HD did not do that with the forks (none rebuild-able), or there would have been a mutiny on hand with riders when the forks had to be replaced every 35K instead.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Solved by adding nitrogen charge fitting ports, since HD had the manufacturer leave them off, so HD could sell more shocks, isntead of them just being rebuilt and recharged as needed instead..

Thank god HD did not do that with the forks (none rebuild-able), or there would have been a mutiny on hand with riders when the forks had to be replaced every 35K instead.
Thanks for the response.
So are you saying the originals can’t be rebuilt but the ones that were linked earlier can be used if end user adds a charge fitting port?

I have little experience with rebuilding shocks but I’m willing to send them out if I could find someone who does it.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 07:49 PM
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The short version, look at the shocks where the rod comes out of the tube.

If the rod seal/assembly is ring retained in the tube,
33,or end cap thread retained to the tube so it can be threaded off to remove the cap from the tube

Then easy to pull the shock apart to rebuild it, even if you have to add the nitrogen charging port left off, to gas recharge the shock in the end.

Now if the rod seal/its assembly is not ring retainer or threaded into the tube, but instead the end of tube was machine rolled over to seal all that in place permanently, then way to much effort needed to rebuild the shock.



As for where the gas port needs to be added if not factory installed, it on the back side of the air piston.
So shocks with reserve, the fill port will be on.need to be installed on the end cap,that is ring retained as well,

While on shocks without reserve tank where the piston is in the shock above the rod assembly, will be on the other side of the piston from the rod assembly itself,


And to add on the Soft tail shocks,since spring is hood cover, how to pull the spring and hood in the first place, since its ring retained as well.
Note, shock in video, is re-build able, since plunger seal head is ring retained, and just has a push on cover over the ring retainer, not end of tube rolled over instead. And yes, will need to drill and tap for the new charge port, before you pull the spring clip that is holding in the seal head assembly..
 

Last edited by Dano523; Feb 4, 2025 at 08:00 PM.
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