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I have the cases split and cleaned up everything. I decided not to press the crank out. I was going to seal everything back up but the case bolts looked pretty bad so I ordered new ones. I think they'll be here on Friday so I should be able to get the engine back together over the weekend - that will depend on July 4th activities. In the meantime, I'm going to clean up the heads and install the new valve seals.
It has been very tempting not to send the heads off for porting, bore the cylinders and install an Mikuni. That would blow the budget on the restoration!
I have the cases split and cleaned up everything. I decided not to press the crank out. I was going to seal everything back up but the case bolts looked pretty bad so I ordered new ones. I think they'll be here on Friday so I should be able to get the engine back together over the weekend - that will depend on July 4th activities. In the meantime, I'm going to clean up the heads and install the new valve seals.
It has been very tempting not to send the heads off for porting, bore the cylinders and install an Mikuni. That would blow the budget on the restoration!
I dont think youd gain much with stock compression and cam. However, I do think there is a much greater return on a good performance valve job. Id do that. If that too is too much, at least lap them good.
I dont think youd gain much with stock compression and cam. However, I do think there is a much greater return on a good performance valve job. Id do that. If that too is too much, at least lap them good.
Not true, the cheapest upgrade for the most performance and value is a camshaft install and rejetting of the carb...
Not true, the cheapest upgrade for the most performance and value is a camshaft install and rejetting of the carb...
My suggestion was in the context of head work keeping his current cam and current compression.. (his decision from what we read, My suggestion would ALWAY’s be do a cam, bump compression) he was contemplating porting them, if anything just re-lap and go. If he wants to drop a measure of coin to future proof the heads a valve job is good. Port work is great too “IF” cam, pipes, carb and air filter, and compression are considered.
Last edited by Rains2much; Jun 30, 2025 at 04:09 PM.
My suggestion was in the context of head work keeping his current cam and current compression.. he was contemplating porting them, if anything just re-lap and go. If he wants to drop a measure of coin to future proof the heads a valve job is good. Port work is great too “IF” cam, pipes, carb and air filter, and compression are considered.
It has an SE (SEH-1) cam in it already but everything else is stock. I'll get a bit more compression with the .030 head gasket. I'll probably lap the valves when I have them out and cleaning things up. Only 17k miles on the engine.
I'd rather put the money into my '15 CVO 110 engine.
It has an SE cam in it already but everything else is stock.
I still don’t think porting would add much with out bumping compression and raising the power band. A good valve job would do as much as you can use with the SE cam. That’s my opinion.. 30 years of messing with these things and most of that time on a very limited budget. I’ve see lots of guys run a ET consistently then spend a lot of money with a reputable head Porter and after spending their money run the exact same ET… and have less bottom end. I’ve also seen it the opposite way..
Last edited by Rains2much; Jun 30, 2025 at 04:15 PM.
Now the work begins. I haven't been working on the bike that much but still cleaning and recoating parts. I just picked up the frame and some other parts from the powder coater. The engine still isn't together but the cases are back together and sealed. I'll be taking the heads apart this week, cleaning them up, reseating the valves, and install new valve seals. I'll be making more progress in weeks to come.
I got the oil pump cam chest of the engine sealed up and tested the oil pump. It is working great.
I have the front head clean up, same valves finely grounded, new valves seals installed. The exhaust valve had so much carbon on it I'm shocked it didn't invade the valve seat and refuse to close. Definitely running rich and maybe the valve seal leaking.
I needed to remove the races from the steering neck but the tool I bought was too thick to get between the race and the neck. I looked online at different tools and they all seemed to be the same thickness. It was only $26 so I said F it and put it on the grinder. It worked and I was able to remove the races.
Hoping to get the other head cleaned up tomorrow and put back together. Then I just have to put the engine back together. Once I get it back together, I have to clean and polish it. I found this YouTube to should help me on the process of restoring the natural aluminum finish.
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