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Thanks for posting the pic of the modified neck bearing tool. That is on my winter to do list and I wondered about that puller.
Your making great progress and that frame looks excellent. Everything is looking great. Nothing wrong with taking your time.
As far as getting the engine cleaned up: on smooth aluminum, I treat it like wood. If it needs it, I wet sand the parts starting at about 320 and working my way up (what grit I start with depends on how messed up the aluminum part is in the first place. I get up to say 800 or 1000 (up to you how fine) then I break out the polishing compounds.
As far the cast aluminum, the best I have found on bare aluminum granular surface is a stainless steel wire brush. It works great. You need different sizes and different lengths of the bristles to get deep and in between the fins. Just don't use bristles that are designed to remove paint or welding slag. Not to course and work your way up to finer till you figure out what bristle thickness works the best. I don't like regular steel because of the potential of bits getting imbedded in the aluminum and rusting. Don't know if it matters but it's how I do it. Play with a few different brushes and you will see what I mean.
Another method for cleaning aluminum cylinders and heads is a green or red scouring pad dipped in mineral spirits. It works on the cases and anything else with a cast finish too.
I had the same issue removing races from the neck of my Panhead frame, that tool is cheap but griding was needed. After getting the profile correct, it was quick work popping out the race, good job. I do not understand why no one is making the tool the correct size for HD, maybe SnapOn sells a $300 version that fits without grinding.
Making progress. I have to clean up the transmission, replace the seals, and I'll get it mounted. I found a great deal on some barley used Progressive 422 shocks. New Swingarm and Steering bearings. New belt, handlebars and riser bushings as well.
Man that is coming together real nice! Something about a freshly coated frame with spanky new chrome FL forks and bars like its just out the factory makes me smile
I haven't updated this thread in a bit. I got the tins back from the painter, buttoned up the engine, and got more of the bike assembled. It seems I get rolling and then get delayed due to ordering an unforeseen part that I need. About 95% of the bolts are new and i'm using stainless steel where Grade 5 or 8 isn't required. As I've mentioned before, this is a Day 2 restoration, so it will have some chrome upgrades that the OG didn't have - fork lowers, tappet blocks, some of the bolts, etc. The bike will have most parts replaced which I didn't intend to do when I started the project. Example would be the stator. I couldn't put the original back in it because it is 35 years old and I don't want to have it die in a year or so. I'm tracking all parts and cost and the original budget is blown out of the water. If I ever sell it, I might break even if I'm lucky, but I'm enjoying the process and learning what to look for when I take on my next project.
My goal was to ride it to Daytona Bike Week. Not sure I'm going to make it but we'll see. Plenty of time until then.
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