cutting out at WOT after EV27 install
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 72
From: omaha NE
OK fair enough. Is there another brand that is remote like this one? most of the aftermarket ones I see are self-contained inside of the nose cone.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 72
From: omaha NE
This looks like it is similar but $650 is a lot of jack just to figure out if that's my problem. ugh
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,640
From: Poolville
That's going a little overboard to help find your problem plus that's for 95 up Harley bike with the Deutsche pin connectors. Best thing to do is to find a cheap Standalone ignition module that goes down into the nose cone for testing purposes you can find them under $100 here's one that I found for you on Amazon and I believe it's one or two days delivery
https://a.co/d/e8mbJma
But your issue to me still seems like carburetor related..
https://a.co/d/e8mbJma
But your issue to me still seems like carburetor related..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 17, 2025 at 06:33 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 72
From: omaha NE
That's going a little overboard to help find your problem plus that's for 95 up Harley bike with the Deutsche pin connectors. Best thing to do is to find a cheap Standalone ignition module that goes down into the nose cone for testing purposes you can find them under $100 here's one that I found for you on Amazon and I believe it's one or two days delivery
https://a.co/d/e8mbJma
But your issue to me still seems like carburetor related..
https://a.co/d/e8mbJma
But your issue to me still seems like carburetor related..
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 4,473
Likes: 3,855
From: Florida
OP please confirm you really really thoroughly cleaned the negative battery terminal at both ends. Not just “felt tight” but removed cleaned to shiny bare metal and tightened back down.
Clean the solenoid connections the same way.
I think we’ve just about listed everything that it can possibly be. It’s one of the things we’ve mentioned that has been either overlooked or not checked.
The exact symptoms that you describe can be tank liner flakes clogging the petcock, a big enough motor demanding fuel and your petcock can’t keep up at wide-open throttle, an intake leak, a ground, a bad ignition, a bad coil. Way off jetting, bad plugs, clogged carb, fuel filter. It’s one of these things.
I bought a 1990 springer with 6K original miles that sat un-started for 25 years because the original owner had a shop do a bunch of bolt on stuff and it did EXACTLY what you describe. He let it sit 25 years because he couldn’t figure it out.
When I bought it it had three major problems. They all caused this. Each fix got better.. but it didn’t stop until I did all three. 1) tank liner Deteriorated and large flakes would block the petcock, only noticeable at wot. Fixed, better still did it. 2) pet **** had to be left in reserve to avoid fuel starve at wot (I’ve run across this many times) 3) the ground at the negative wire to the frame.
I was stubborn and didn’t remove/clean the negative at the frame because it was super tight and looked like it had never been messed with, no signs of deposits or dirt or anything on it so I stubbornly cleaned all connections on the bike, except for that stupid last ground to the frame.
The bike had 10:1 pistons, branch ported (mildly) heads, a EV51 cam, 2000 ignition, chromolly pushrods, roller rocker arms. The condition you Described only happened at wide-open throttle somewhere between 5000 and 7000 RPM.
Clean the solenoid connections the same way.
I think we’ve just about listed everything that it can possibly be. It’s one of the things we’ve mentioned that has been either overlooked or not checked.
The exact symptoms that you describe can be tank liner flakes clogging the petcock, a big enough motor demanding fuel and your petcock can’t keep up at wide-open throttle, an intake leak, a ground, a bad ignition, a bad coil. Way off jetting, bad plugs, clogged carb, fuel filter. It’s one of these things.
I bought a 1990 springer with 6K original miles that sat un-started for 25 years because the original owner had a shop do a bunch of bolt on stuff and it did EXACTLY what you describe. He let it sit 25 years because he couldn’t figure it out.
When I bought it it had three major problems. They all caused this. Each fix got better.. but it didn’t stop until I did all three. 1) tank liner Deteriorated and large flakes would block the petcock, only noticeable at wot. Fixed, better still did it. 2) pet **** had to be left in reserve to avoid fuel starve at wot (I’ve run across this many times) 3) the ground at the negative wire to the frame.
I was stubborn and didn’t remove/clean the negative at the frame because it was super tight and looked like it had never been messed with, no signs of deposits or dirt or anything on it so I stubbornly cleaned all connections on the bike, except for that stupid last ground to the frame.
The bike had 10:1 pistons, branch ported (mildly) heads, a EV51 cam, 2000 ignition, chromolly pushrods, roller rocker arms. The condition you Described only happened at wide-open throttle somewhere between 5000 and 7000 RPM.
Last edited by Rains2much; Dec 18, 2025 at 05:43 AM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,072
From: Brighton, MI
That's going a little overboard to help find your problem plus that's for 95 up Harley bike with the Deutsche pin connectors. Best thing to do is to find a cheap Standalone ignition module that goes down into the nose cone for testing purposes you can find them under $100 here's one that I found for you on Amazon and I believe it's one or two days delivery
https://a.co/d/e8mbJma
But your issue to me still seems like carburetor related..
https://a.co/d/e8mbJma
But your issue to me still seems like carburetor related..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,640
From: Poolville
I don't know chit about an SS carb, however, had same type of symptoms after my cam change and the fix was a larger main jet. Yes I checked all the usual suspects first (as mentioned in this thread) regarding electrical, module, intake seal, yada-yada... and it ended up being a simple jet change. This was before I had my wego fuel air monitor. Later, when I installed the wego, it confirmed the new larger jet was the right call and size.
What was in the build and what jets did you go to?
The OP is up to a 74/.295 which should be plenty of fuel for the entire rpm range..
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,640
From: Poolville
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 72
From: omaha NE
@thsorens
When you took the carb apart to clean, did you remove the entire emulsion tube for the main jet from the carb body and check all the ports in it to confirm they are not clogged???
I would definitely do this to confirm..
When you took the carb apart to clean, did you remove the entire emulsion tube for the main jet from the carb body and check all the ports in it to confirm they are not clogged???
I would definitely do this to confirm..
Last edited by thsorens; Dec 18, 2025 at 09:47 AM.