EVO All Evo Model Discussion

cutting out at WOT after EV27 install

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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 11:28 AM
  #11  
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Every single Pingel I’ve ever used does exactly the symptom you describe in the “On” position.. I have to turn it to reserve to not starve the motor at high rpm.

I’ve seen this exact same thing a dozen times on different bikes with big motors.. yours is pretty much stock so it shouldn’t do that. But on strokers with high compression and above 5500 rpm it chokes them.

I started running Golan petcocks because of this issue.
 

Last edited by Rains2much; Nov 26, 2025 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 11:31 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by thsorens
"Trousers getting sucked into air cleaner" Classic!
You know what, the tank vent under the dash console is taped over with masking tape from who knows when it was repainted, probably 20 years ago. When the damn weather cooperates I'll tear that off and run it again. Imma check the float level for sure, just haven't got around to it yet. It has those damn V&H Short Shots on it which are basically drag pipes. Seems to have newer fatter red wires on it, and I put new plugs in it.
try the TTI’s or thumb screws in those pipes. Makes a noticeable difference.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 11:35 AM
  #13  
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I may have missed it, but is the pop pop from the exhaust or intake?

That Crane system is getting old, as is the sensor so I'd check them. See attachment for the Hi4e

Paul
 
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 11:43 AM
  #14  
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verify static timing so you know you're starting at a correct spot
check for intake seal leaks
check that butterfly is opening all the way
check AC pump shot is strong and pointing down the throat of the carb
check bowl level
check for clogged fuel filter or petcock screen

It varies with altitude, pipes etc but 72 main and 29.5 pilot jets are good starting points and shouldn't create running issues. Might not produce the most power but should perform without creating issues. Your problems, I suspect, fall somewhere else.

 
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 01:54 PM
  #15  
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I adjusted the float level just now, it was over 1/4" with my thumb pressing down on the needle compressing it's spring. I bent it up to about 1/8". I also gave it an advance curve of 2 on the ignition box and changed it to multi-spark as recommended per the manual. Oh and I also pulled the negative cable off the frame and shined it up. I verified the throttle blade opens all the way and the accelerator pump shoots a good shot Now if it wasn't 30 degrees and windy AF I would go test it. Thanks all!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 02:10 PM
  #16  
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I'm finding it difficult to understand the way you adjusted the float level. I've been running S&S carburetors for 25 plus years and the best way to set the float level is to adjust the Tang so when you turn the float Bowl upside down the top of the float level is perfectly parallel with the float Bowl housing when you pull down on the float gently till the spring in the needle is compressed.. It is the best way I have found to adjust them..
 
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 02:24 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
I'm finding it difficult to understand the way you adjusted the float level. I've been running S&S carburetors for 25 plus years and the best way to set the float level is to adjust the Tang so when you turn the float Bowl upside down the top of the float level is perfectly parallel with the float Bowl housing when you pull down on the float gently till the spring in the needle is compressed.. It is the best way I have found to adjust them..
S&S manual says to do it right side up not upside down. ?? I'm not saying you are wrong just not how the book shows
 
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 06:32 PM
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S&S does recommend Measurements...for some reason..The "upside down" method holds over from the old Round Slide Mikuni...and....Works at least as well!!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2025 | 03:01 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
Things I have seen that could do this.

Drag Pipes
Float Level
Fouled Plugs
Ign Module
Trousers getting sucked into air cleaner
Chafed wire to ign module
Plugged tank vent
Plug wires
Timing

It's a process of elimination starting with the cheap and easy stuff.
Well I've been thru almost all of these suggestions except for replacing the ign module. I did replace the pickup module when I did the cam, maybe the new one is bad? Wish I had saved the old one. I'm at a 74 main which is probably overkill but certainly not the cause of it being seemingly starved for fuel at WOT. The accelerator pump shoots a good shot, is there a hidden passage in these SS carbs that gets plugged up somewhere? these carbs are so simple and the jets are new so I give up. Maybe it is weak spark and I need a new module? Bad Coil? I should also mention that it seems to start hard. Full choke and a couple sprays of the pump and I still have to crank on it a bit cold.
 

Last edited by thsorens; Dec 17, 2025 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2025 | 03:41 PM
  #20  
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Back in the 90s that ignition was always doing that i dont remember one that stayed working
 
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