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That is not factory wire on the old switch, someone has redid the wire with the crimp on connector. just replicate what you have. You should be able to jumper it, if you got power to one side like 98 stated. You checked the ground connection and battery charge correct?
As you're looking at your switch the terminal at the 1 o'clock position is where the power hits the ignition switch
There's a self resetting 30 amp circuit breaker on the rear fender splash guard.
After 30 years it might have gone bad.
I believe the ignition switch on my 95 springer bad boy has went out. It will not power on to start the bike or turn the headlight on.
Make sure battery is good, have it load tested.
Make sure there is power going to the switch, check for voltage at studs on main breaker (rear fender extension). check studs for power one at a time, both should have system voltage.
Check the connector between the tanks, make sure there are no damaged or pushed out pins or sockets.
Check voltage at switch, should have system voltage at all times, regardless of switch position.
If the switch is getting power in, but no power out, it may be the switch is dirty or corroded.
The `95 part is no longer available, but the earlier switch 71501-73A is still available from the dealer, $88.00.
I`m pretty sure they are interchangeable.
They can be cleaned up, here`s a page from the 1995 Factory Service Manual:
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Dec 28, 2025 at 10:04 AM.
Thanks guys. I hadn't thought of cleaning it. I did order a replacement, a NOS made in Japan switch I found.
Any wiring involved in replacing this switch?
I just had to do this on my 1991 Heritage. The one that was on it was NOT OEM, and was a piece of crap. I found an OEM, made in Japan ( as you said ), and it is quality and robust. The OEM switch can be taken apart and serviced and probably should be cleaned and lubed every year or two.
Just remember where all the wires go. I replaced all the little screws with new ones. It's not a hard job.
And as 98hotrod said, make sure you have power. A few years ago my GoldWing did this. The battery measured 12.5v with a multi meter, but it didn't even have enough power to light up the dash lights. I confirmed by jumping from a car battery. I replaced the bike battery and all good. I'm not saying this is your problem but it pays to do some troubleshooting before buying new parts.
Thanks guys. Yeah my battery is good. When this ignition switch on the bike went out it made a electrical popping noise, and now when you turn the switch some times it will throw a spark.
I suspect something internal on the switch shorted out? It's also real rusty pretty much around the whole thing.
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1995 Springer ignition switch
