I did a search on this subject and came up empty handed.
I want to replace my current stock lifters with Hydro Solids and adjustable pushrods.
However, in order to do this on my 05 RK custom I have to remove the Rocker Covers and rocker arm assemble.
Has anyone ever used acutoff wheelto cut the existing pushrods to get them out and then put the new lifters and then install the new push rods.
In other words, on the newer engines, can adjustable push rods be installed without tearing down the rocker arm assembles.

Thanks

 

I've probably have cut 40 sets of stock HD pushrods with my 48 in bolt cutters It's clean no stinking metal dust to worry about Who wants the old stock pushrods anyway

 

Yeah, that's how I did mine, but with a 18" bolt cutter.

 

What can you tell me about Megasquirt? I have been on the site but it seems to be geared more towards cars.

 

I don't have a problem with the method in which I get the old pushrods out, my concern is, HD made some top end changes that might prevent me from slipping in the new adjustable rods in after I cut the old ones out. So in other words, if I have to tear the top down to insert the new ones, then there is no sense in me cutting the old ones out. I might as well just tear it down to start with. If someone has inserted adjustable pushrods by the proposed method, then this is what I wanted to know.

 

You have to make sure that the pushrods that you buy are the "timesaver" variety, which will compress enough to slide in without removing anything. Not all of the adjustable pushrods out there will do this, in fact, I think most will not fit without removing the upper boxes and the rocker shaft. I have the non "timesaver" type in both my bikes, and they arestill easier that removing the bottoms though.

 

Yeah, make sure they are timesaver or easy-install or whatever. I bought a set of Genuine HD (Screaming Eagle, whatever) chrome molly adjustable pushrods, cut out my old ones as described, put in my new cam, put in my new lifters,went to put the pushrods in and they wouldn't colapse enough. I bought a set at the aftermarket shop and eBayed the HD ones.

Thread Hijack:
Classic Beast,
What do you want to know about MegaSquirt? It's a stand-alone ECU. I converted the Sporty with a Buell throtle body/injectors.

 

So if I wanted to put the mega squirt on my 127 ultima with a 45mm mikuni and a 1995 heritige frame where would I start.

 

Well, first off, you need to do a little background reading. Hit the http://www.msefi.com/site, read the FAQ, MegaManual, etc. and get a rough idea what you're getting into. Next, today, I would buy a MicroSquirt. I built my own mini-megasquirt based computer, but that was primarily because the microsquirt wasn't out yet and I wanted to get the show on the road. Plus my home built was cheaper than a microsquirt, but a lot more work.

So now you have a general understanding that the whole MS concept is just a computer. You still have to add everything else and set it up. There is a tremendous online support community, and everything is adjustable/setable. That's the advantage of MS: Everything is adjustable. The problem with MS is that everything is adjustable. That is, there is a whole lot of stuff to set and fiddle with. MS has been used on everything from lawn mowers to Merlin Aircraft engines. I believe I'm the first to do a Sportster, but I know a couple of guys that MS'ed their already EFI Buells, dumping the crappy HD system.

Next, you will need a throttle body and injectors. The easy way is to buy one that came on a similar motor. I got a Buell set for my wife's Sportster and it was bolt on, sort of. For your motor, will any of the HD injected intakes fit? If so, that's the easy way to go.

Next, you need a fuel pump. I used one from a Victory. You can use others as well, but the Victory one wasn't too much and flows plenty. I used a regular fuel tank, not an EFI tank. I mounted the pump to the downtube and used a large fuel filter as a sump and T'ed the fuel line between the tank petcock and the big filter for the return. Never had a dry spell, which I hear that factory HD EFI systems do when you hit it or lean with a low tank. For the regulator, I used an adjustable one I got from eBay, but I'm not too happy with it. I think I'll find a better one.

I left the stock ignition system on the bike and used that as a trigger for the MS. You can also tap into the HD sensors, and even control the timing and fire the coil if you want, but it is easier if you just leave the stock system in place.

Next: Plumbing, fuel filters, wiring, vacuum lines. Then weld an oxygen sensor bung onto the exhaust and mount a sensor. I used a 2 wire sensor so I wouldn't load down the electrical system with the heater and had a good ground. I made a cylinder head temp sender from a thermistor and a ring clamp and used an identical thermistor siliconed into a plug hole just inside the air cleaner for the intake air temp. A couple of bucks each from Digikey. Next, wire it up, then configure the software and start it up. Then ride around and tune it how you want. I put a pentop in a backpack data logging while I rode it around, then went through the logs and adjusted it from there. The AutoTune feature will get you in the ballpark. This was my 3rd MS'ed vehicle (20 valve Corolla DD and 22RE Truck are the other 2), so I have some experience with this. A dyno helps, but isn't needed as you can tell where you are by looking at the logs of the oxygen sensor and the rest of the motor (Throtle Position, vacuum, temps, RPM, etc.)

My wife says it is like riding an automatic transmission. Just put it in gear and go, it's so smooth. That bike had 3-4 other carbs on it and it never was right. Hard to get a carb for an 883. Everything comes for 1200's or bigger, and it has drag pipes.

The place I buy my MS stuff from is DIYAutoTune.com. They are good people to deal with and won't rip you off. Be sure to get their custom labeled harness. It makes wiring it up much, much easier. Pick up a

 

Whats your opinion of this http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/efiaboutrsr.htm