Need paint help
I can't find anybody that knows anything about my Accuspray HVLP gun so I think I will buy a middle of the road gun.
Any suggestions??
I found a 40 Ford hood out in the woods in great shape so that is what I am going to practice with. I figure if it comes out halfway decent I can sell it plus get in a lot of practice before I squirt my scoot.
I have found that it was cheaperfor me to buy a gallon of paint instead of a quart or even a half gallon. The jobber here in my little rural town says that the gallon comes premixed and it is a lot cheaper. It was about the same for a quart as for a gallon of black. I think I gave around $115 for the blue metallic and the red metallic by the gallon.. Another fellow wanted me to paint a Kawasaki something the darkest red metallic Nason carries. Everything , paint,hardner, reducer and i think there was aquart of sealer in the mix, was around $215-225. That was last year late summer.
As for the gun, I bought a Astro LVLP from spray gun world.With this gun I am able to use a 3-5 gallon wal-mart aircompressor, no problem. I think from what I understand it is a Sata knockoff.I have no idea. About$250 for the kit. It had 3 guns.one gun with a 1.4 tip for base/clear and one gun with a 1.8 tip for primer and a touch up gun.You can buy just one gun for about $100, i think. I do know once I got the air and fluid set it lays the paint very nice. It is all in how much you practice. I did really bad in the beginning. My first set of fenders, fairings and stuff have several coats of paint. Thats also where the gallon of paint helps. I wasn't afraid I would run out of paint.
Here is the site and the gun I bought, but look around , I am sure they sell just the one gun. I use only the one with the 1.4 nozzle.
http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...20EVOcase.html
The single gun price is $74.50
http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...%20EVO4014.htm
later............................
gottahavitt,
I have found that it was cheaperfor me to buy a gallon of paint instead of a quart or even a half gallon. The jobber here in my little rural town says that the gallon comes premixed and it is a lot cheaper. It was about the same for a quart as for a gallon of black. I think I gave around $115 for the blue metallic and the red metallic by the gallon.. Another fellow wanted me to paint a Kawasaki something the darkest red metallic Nason carries. Everything , paint,hardner, reducer and i think there was aquart of sealer in the mix, was around $215-225. That was last year late summer.
As for the gun, I bought a Astro LVLP from spray gun world.With this gun I am able to use a 3-5 gallon wal-mart aircompressor, no problem. I think from what I understand it is a Sata knockoff.I have no idea. About$250 for the kit. It had 3 guns.one gun with a 1.4 tip for base/clear and one gun with a 1.8 tip for primer and a touch up gun.You can buy just one gun for about $100, i think. I do know once I got the air and fluid set it lays the paint very nice. It is all in how much you practice. I did really bad in the beginning. My first set of fenders, fairings and stuff have several coats of paint. Thats also where the gallon of paint helps. I wasn't afraid I would run out of paint.
Here is the site and the gun I bought, but look around , I am sure they sell just the one gun. I use only the one with the 1.4 nozzle.
http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...20EVOcase.html
The single gun price is $74.50
http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...%20EVO4014.htm
later............................
I figure by next winter I should be able to paint better and then I will repaint everything again.
I should be back to work soon so I will be in a much better position to do anything I want.
Joe
Has anyone used this paint?? The terstimonials with pictures look good but hoping to get some feedback here.
I will post before and after shots when I am done provided nothing terrible happens.
Thanks again to all who have offered advice.
I've been watching this thread for some time with alot ofinterest. In my case to save some money, I would like to do all the prep work and have a professional paint the basecoat/clearcoat.
I'll be changing colorsand would like to strip the factory finish down to bare metal. There are some holes that need to be welded closed and ground down,a seam in the gas tank that needs to be reworked and a few dings worked out. If we are very careful with the welding and grinding very little to no bondo should be needed. I'll throw a quick coat of rattle can automotive primer over the bare metal to protect it.
All this being said, what would be the best way to strip the factory paint?
Hi Guys,
I've been watching this thread for some time with alot ofinterest. In my case to save some money, I would like to do all the prep work and have a professional paint the basecoat/clearcoat.
I'll be changing colorsand would like to strip the factory finish down to bare metal. There are some holes that need to be welded closed and ground down,a seam in the gas tank that needs to be reworked and a few dings worked out. If we are very careful with the welding and grinding very little to no bondo should be needed. I'll throw a quick coat of rattle can automotive primer over the bare metal to protect it.
All this being said, what would be the best way to strip the factory paint?
If you are sure you want to strip everything down I find it is best to just sand blast it. Make sure you cover all the holes in the tank. If you don't have a blaster I am sure there is someplace around where you live that can do it for you.
Don't forget to seal the primer with a primer sealer so the new paint doesn't soak into the primer. This saves paint and will give a better shine too. Get some primer filler and a tube of spot filler too.
Hope this helps
One more thing.
BE sure to CLEAN EVERYTHING real good with a prep sol to get rid of any chemicals or the oil off you fingers.
I wear rubber gloves when I am sanding.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Thanks for the reply, I really have to get it down to the bare metal to do the welding and fiberglass work that needs to be done. I might be able to get away with the front and rear fenders the way you suggest. I had a set of chromed side covers stripped, so they are ready to go.
The gas tank need the most work. There arefour un needed holes to fill and the center seam needs to be molded in. I have a single cap FXR tank and want to get rid of the factory leather strap that covers the center seam.
gottahavvitt,
I painted my bike with Nason single stage urethane. All i did was wet sand the oem paint till it was smooth with 400 grit. Shot it with several coats of black. Being the beginner I am if i messed up, I let it dry over night and sanded with 400 grit the next day and shot it again. Granted, there is a little nib or two in it but I am the only one who cares. Everybody that has seen it thinks it was done in a paint shot. I have painted three more bikes since mine, one a shade of red and one a dark blue and one a dark red. On lighter shades of paint and multi colored parts a coat of sealer will help. Nason is a cheap paint, but seems durable . I have had no problems with it. just my two cents.
later................
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o...t=P1010012.jpg
Paco, if you are reading this. When you let the paint dry overnight and wet sanded the next day, did you take it down to original color again? Or did you just sand the runs.
I am thinking of wet sanding the orange peelwith some 1000 grit or soand re-shooting.
When I started this project I told myself as long as it looked good from 10 or 20 feet I would be happy but now I am obsessed. Somebody HELP me!
What causes the orange peel to beging with?
Thanks for the read
Joe






