Lifter Noise
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 137
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Lifter Noise
Need Help, just replaced the inner cam bearing on a 98 Ultra I bought this winter, (28k miles) I installed a Andrews EV27 cam, Rev Tech lifters and adjustable push rods.Rev Tech says adjust push rods to take up slack then 4 turns, did the front cyl. on TDC, let the lifters bleed off, then did the same on rear cyl. There is some lifter noise there, noticable at highway speed just not sure what is normal,I am used to my TC88 whichhas normal valve train noise,but really not any lifter "rattle". My question is do you ever have to go beyond the 4 turns ? Also when you take up the slack, I went just to where I had no up and down movement, its hard to see if you are starting to move the plunger...so maybe I didn't go far enough. Was going to put a few miles on and re adjust. Any helpappreciated.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 2,572
From: NC USA
RE: Lifter Noise
You may be getting normal noise because of that cam. It has "fast ramps" that is, steep lobes which allow the lifter to drop to base circle is a hurry.
Did you adjust each cylinder at a time, I mean both valves on a particular cylinder at once?
Trust me, if you have a pushtube too loose - it'll be gosh awful noise!
Did you adjust each cylinder at a time, I mean both valves on a particular cylinder at once?
Trust me, if you have a pushtube too loose - it'll be gosh awful noise!
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
RE: Lifter Noise
I adjusted the front cyl first (both valves) let the lifters bleed off, rolled engine over then adjusted the rear cyl (both valves). I watched the lifters until they were at the lowest position to do the adjustment.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 535
Likes: 14
From: Highspire Pa
RE: Lifter Noise
Mine reminds me of an old washing machine at times rolling down the highway,
but no distict loud ticking. "Big Boys Head Porting" has a good tech article on
adjusting the pushrods, I have the Revtec ChromeMoly pushrods in mine.
***** quote ******
Turn the engine over (by hand) until you see the cam overlap for the rear cylinder.
That is when exhaust lifter is traveling down and the intake lifter is traveling up
(closing the exhaust valve and opening the intake valve).
Once you find that for the rear cylinder, the FRONT cylinder will be on its compression stroke.
You can now adjust the front cylinder pushrods.
With the pushrods loose, tighten them until there is no up and down play.
The pushrods should be able to rotate easily with your fingers but should
not move up and down any.
******* end quote ****
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/forumdisplay.php?f=6
on edit: Oh , I forgot, I did have some top end rattling that was related to detonation, the EV-27 will ping
really quick with compression over 9.5 to 1. I had to back off on the timing advance curve (using the crane Hi-4).
but no distict loud ticking. "Big Boys Head Porting" has a good tech article on
adjusting the pushrods, I have the Revtec ChromeMoly pushrods in mine.
***** quote ******
Turn the engine over (by hand) until you see the cam overlap for the rear cylinder.
That is when exhaust lifter is traveling down and the intake lifter is traveling up
(closing the exhaust valve and opening the intake valve).
Once you find that for the rear cylinder, the FRONT cylinder will be on its compression stroke.
You can now adjust the front cylinder pushrods.
With the pushrods loose, tighten them until there is no up and down play.
The pushrods should be able to rotate easily with your fingers but should
not move up and down any.
******* end quote ****
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/forumdisplay.php?f=6
on edit: Oh , I forgot, I did have some top end rattling that was related to detonation, the EV-27 will ping
really quick with compression over 9.5 to 1. I had to back off on the timing advance curve (using the crane Hi-4).
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
RE: Lifter Noise
Murph,
You are asking for opinions somewhat, so here's mine. I don't use anything made by Revtec (Wrecktec) at our shop. We will install partspurchased by a customer elsewhere, but will not warranty them. Revtec components are made overseas, so who knows what materials they are made out of, what the clearances/tolerances are and so forth. There is a reason why those parts are less expensive.
That being said, the HD "B" lifter is excellent and a set is around $100.00 from a discount HD dealer such as Zanotti's. I sell Revolution Performance (V-Thunder), lifters for about the same price + shipping. The lifterscome with a lifetime warranty, although I would change them out as routine mainenance at 40K anyways.
Do you know the TPI count on your pushrods? 4.0 turns from 0 lash sounds like an awful lot of preload. Most pushrods are 32TPI, some are 24TPI and Revtec pushrods should be 36TPI.The EV-27 makes some noise due to the fast ramp design, but should not be overly so. I try to use the factory gear on a cam swap whenever possible to avoid the gear whine as well. You could also have a bad lifter, or lifters. My current EV27 with the SE lifters is not overlynoisy.
I'll be changing cams shortly to a 585 lift V-Thunder with the V-Thunder lifters and SE pushrods that are 32TPI. My installation instructions state 2.5 turns from 0 lash.
I would first determine/comfirm the thread count on the pushrod. Try readjusting with less preload and see if the lifter noise improves. If so, then you know they were preloaded too much and problem is solved.If not, I'd recommend replacing the lifters and readjust to the lifter makers factory recommendations for your pushrod TPI count.
You are asking for opinions somewhat, so here's mine. I don't use anything made by Revtec (Wrecktec) at our shop. We will install partspurchased by a customer elsewhere, but will not warranty them. Revtec components are made overseas, so who knows what materials they are made out of, what the clearances/tolerances are and so forth. There is a reason why those parts are less expensive.
That being said, the HD "B" lifter is excellent and a set is around $100.00 from a discount HD dealer such as Zanotti's. I sell Revolution Performance (V-Thunder), lifters for about the same price + shipping. The lifterscome with a lifetime warranty, although I would change them out as routine mainenance at 40K anyways.
Do you know the TPI count on your pushrods? 4.0 turns from 0 lash sounds like an awful lot of preload. Most pushrods are 32TPI, some are 24TPI and Revtec pushrods should be 36TPI.The EV-27 makes some noise due to the fast ramp design, but should not be overly so. I try to use the factory gear on a cam swap whenever possible to avoid the gear whine as well. You could also have a bad lifter, or lifters. My current EV27 with the SE lifters is not overlynoisy.
I'll be changing cams shortly to a 585 lift V-Thunder with the V-Thunder lifters and SE pushrods that are 32TPI. My installation instructions state 2.5 turns from 0 lash.
I would first determine/comfirm the thread count on the pushrod. Try readjusting with less preload and see if the lifter noise improves. If so, then you know they were preloaded too much and problem is solved.If not, I'd recommend replacing the lifters and readjust to the lifter makers factory recommendations for your pushrod TPI count.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 2,572
From: NC USA
RE: Lifter Noise
One obvious thing we've all neglected to mention.... was the cam GEAR marked and/or did you measure it to be sure the pinion gear matches?
Typically, cam gears have a spot of paint to denote the pitch of the teeth. I've only installed one Andrews and it was NOT marked. If your noise is coming from near the lifters, rather than the valves and rockers, most likely your cam gear is too small and the teeth of the cam gear are hitting the backside of the pinion as the cam comes off to the back side.
Typically, cam gears have a spot of paint to denote the pitch of the teeth. I've only installed one Andrews and it was NOT marked. If your noise is coming from near the lifters, rather than the valves and rockers, most likely your cam gear is too small and the teeth of the cam gear are hitting the backside of the pinion as the cam comes off to the back side.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
From: canton ny
RE: Lifter Noise
I was taught to do the adj. of the pushrods on TDC of the comp. stroke.But anyway,I would get it toTDC again let it sit a bit and see just how tight or loose your pushrods are and go from there.Also You didn`t mention whether or not you had to shim your cam for proper backlash.Not all cams are the same length.You may have done this.There is kind of a knack to pushrods and sometimes it`s not "just right" on the first attempt.My crane chrome moly`s are 3 turns(18 flats).Good luck and post results.Toby t150vej is spot on on the gears.The make guage pins to check for sizing of the cam gear.Just measuring the outside of the teeth isn`t accurate enough.The depth and widths grooves may not match your particular pinion.
Trending Topics
RE: Lifter Noise
Wow, didn't know there was that many adjustments for push rods....I have Andrews and they say 24 flats{4.0 turns}
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
RE: Lifter Noise
I changed the original gear over to the new cam, and marked the gear before I pressed it off, I re figured the turns / flats required to get .100 pre-load. RevTech say adjust 4 full turns, they are 36 tpi, to get .100, I needed 21.6 flats instead of the 24 they recommend. I re adjusted them again. it's quite at idle now, but still has some noticable noise at road speeds, It may just be that I am not used to the EVO motor. And I can't say I paid close enough attention to how it sounded before. I only put about 80 miles on the bike before I swapped the cam, I was nervous about the inner cam bearing, so I really wanted to get it out of there and have the bike ready for spring. Thanks for all the input, I guess what I need to do is have someone listen to it now and get their opinion.
