EVO All Evo Model Discussion

I need some help...

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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 03:38 AM
  #11  
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arrgghhh. i am so frustrated. this has been an on going thing. battery has been replaced, but the bike has been unable to start. just turns over. I can smell gas when it is turning over. I checked and cleaned carb. seems to be good. i do not appear to be getting spark. (turned over engine, put plug against metal and no spark.) i guess i have this narrowed down to either the regulator or the coil. I'm leaning towards coil. would solve both problems. any Ideas before I blow too much money my broke *** can't afford.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 07:34 AM
  #12  
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I am wondering if you were over charging if there could have been any damage to your ignition module , coil etc ?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 12:53 PM
  #13  
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How do I check the coil, ign mod, and regulator? I really don't want to be replacing all of them unless i need to...
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 12:11 AM
  #14  
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You said you had a light show with your blinkers before the last time your battery puked. I would check for a short in your switches before doing anything else. Also check your fuses/circuit breakers.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 11:32 AM
  #15  
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Been a few months and I've slept since then... badazzz aren't you the one who was going to check/replace your ground cables?

Don't know where yours is mounted, but I had turn siganl flasher come apart from vibration and extreme wind slap in Wyoming a few months ago... when the internals started slapping the top of the triple tree - talk about a show!!

Sounds like you need to pull your tanks, dash, and whatever else and go over the whole thing. I may have the test figures, but I need to know what year, model, ignition system (stock or whatever). I'll be glad to walk you thru it all or email you the procedures.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 01:09 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by t150vej
Been a few months and I've slept since then... badazzz aren't you the one who was going to check/replace your ground cables?

Don't know where yours is mounted, but I had turn siganl flasher come apart from vibration and extreme wind slap in Wyoming a few months ago... when the internals started slapping the top of the triple tree - talk about a show!!

Sounds like you need to pull your tanks, dash, and whatever else and go over the whole thing. I may have the test figures, but I need to know what year, model, ignition system (stock or whatever). I'll be glad to walk you thru it all or email you the procedures.

man do I hope this isn't it. really don't want to have to do all that work. I did have a light show just before the battery cooked. It was from the turn signal indicators and dummy lights. only did it twice. happened each time the battery was cooked. Could this contribute to the lose of spark?(once again, bike won''t start)
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 01:16 PM
  #17  
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I'm sure it's all related some degree. Hate to see anyone hanging parts chasing a problem.

Still need to know what bike you have before I can make an attempt to help. I don't know later stuff too good, but will help if I can.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 03:29 PM
  #18  
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Exclamation Regulator

I think everyones saying this if you read all the posts but IMHO I would change the regulator FIRST then troubleshoot for ignition spark. I don't usu. recommend repair by replacement, but it sounds like initially, assuming the batteries positive terminal were not grounding to the frame, that the charging system is (still) overcharging the batteries and the regulator/rectifier controls this. Putting in a new battery (or coil) will not correct this problem; it MAY run for a while then it will cook the battery again or worse. The battery acts as a load (or a "dam") for a normally running charging system and protects these circuits and keeps the AC charging from "taking over" and systems that run on DC then get AC voltage (why it's bad to run with the battery disconnected). The "light show" you mention could have been from AC current running through the system at the loss of battery DC in the system; that AC-juice has to go somewhere! After replacing the regulator, check the ignition and main circuit breakers as they may have (hopefully) locked-blown but I think you possibly may have "cooked" other components of the ignition, most likely the electrically-sensitive ignition module which is now causing ignition problems (that's assuming the battery is connected properly now). Checks for ignition are in the service manual.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 07:44 PM
  #19  
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I'd go with robzuc97 DC to AC and it's not a rock group!!!
 
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 03:16 AM
  #20  
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don't disconnect or reconnect the stator plug when the bike is running, it can (and will) fry the stator.

To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multimeter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM

To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
make sure engine is off
1) set multimeter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) reconnect stator plug

To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multimeter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC
(if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multimeter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multimeter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC, anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery (no ****).
 
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