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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by BIGRED1
Ordered the 113 comp engine for my 95 FLHTCUI. Anybody change from FI to carb? I have already ordered the tank adapters and petcock, but how about the ignition?
Cant wait to get started on this project, I'll photo as much as I can!
ive got a 127" in my `97 bagger,had mag morreilli EFI,now have a 48mm mikuni & dyna S ignition with nology wires
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 09:52 AM
  #112  
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Yes it seems most of the ultimas have noisy lifters, you could try to make sure you adjust them on the heel of the cam one at a time instead of at TDC this seemed to help a bit but still noisy.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #113  
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Noisy, they almost sound like solids!!
Its all together now, no leaks, smoked the rear tire without trying. I will have get used to the starting method using the enricher/compression releases and throttle squirt. Guess I got spoiled by the fuel injection.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:56 AM
  #114  
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I have an S&S 640 cam and some 1:1.65 S&S roller rockers with S&S lifters. I know the 124 S&S engine lifters are quiet so my plan is to try this combination and see if it works, along with the normal checks (cam gear back lash, push rods rubbing etc etc)
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #115  
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CB, before you change the cam try this. The hydraulic lifters have about .200" of travel, adjusting the pushrods to their reccomended setting lengthens them about .100" or about the middle of the lifter travel. Now if you check your cam specs you will see when you adjust the valves at TDC, the lift is over .100", so you actually have a clearance of what ever the number is causing noise. If you do not have the pushrod at zero clearance then it will be worse. The mantra of adjusting valves at TDC started years ago when cam profiles were almost round, a lift of .300 was a lot and durations were nowhere near what modern cams are today. E-Mail me your phone number and I will explain what we do to minimize noise. You will still have some if you have a cam that makes real HP, but it will make as little noise as possible.
 

Last edited by miacycles; Jan 3, 2010 at 02:41 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #116  
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I don't adjust them at TDC but on the middle of the heel of the cam (zero lift), yes it does reduce the noise but I want to see how the S&S stuff works as I already have it. If I ever get out of Saudi Arabia it will get done.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 09:50 AM
  #117  
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I adjusted the valves per 'Heel of Cam' method and it now is just as quite (or noisy) as my 80ci w/Stage 2 cam was. Also found out some interesting bits about the Barnett clutch. Seems from other blogs that non-syn ATF works the best, at first I used regular primary oil and had some slippage. I used just enough ATF to supply the primary chain with lube and the clutch is now easier to pull, has no slippage etc. All I need now is for the weather to return to rideable temp at night. I ride daily and work 2nd shift.
Thanks to everyone for the help!!!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:14 AM
  #118  
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I found royal purple ATF the very best to use but I am running the S&S clutch. I tried the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF but it wasn't that good but the Royal purple is amazing I fill it right up to the clutch basket. I can pull in the clutch just before the light changes and sometimes I even have to rock it so it will go in gear with no clunk at all, can't even tell it went into gear sometimes and no slip ever.
 

Last edited by Classic Beast; Jan 10, 2010 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:54 AM
  #119  
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The biggest improvement I found is when I replaced the 45mm mikuni with the 51mm screamin Eagle CV carb. Smoother and runs better at every RPM, can't say enough about it.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:07 PM
  #120  
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I used the Royal Purple also, I just put in 1 qt. . As for the carb, I havn't put enough miles on yet to mess with the carb, so far the throttle response and settings are ok. Warmer weather should yeild better knowledge.
 
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