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I switched over to the K&N filter, really like the welded on cap nut. It makes getting the filter off the mount quick and painless. The std filters sometimes torque themselves tighter with the vibration on an EVO and having a FLH the low mounted voltage regulator and the crank sensor make it tough to get in there with a std filter wrench. Always had to use a rubber strap wrench a real pain in the a**. They are a very good filter, a couple of bucks more but the ease of removal makes it worth it for me.
I also use the M1 20/50 4cycle Syn, good stuff, a little more expense than the std M1 15/50 and less than then the Amsoil/Royal Purple/Redline. They all work well. As long as you don't abuse the mileage limits and take into account the amount of heat you expose the motor to you should not have any problems with any good 20/50 syn oil.
Also check out this little gadget. I bought one and won't do the oil without it now. It gives you the ability to get the last quart of oil out of the bottom of the motor. You don't end up mixing the old oil with the new. You actually end up with 4 qts of clean fresh oil in the bike. http://www.roguechopper.com/about.html
I thought the HD Evo filters had a drainback valve in them. The specs for them on the oil filter web pages like WIX do. Anyway, I use Genuine Toyota oil filters on my Evos. It's the same filter as used on a 22R motor. I would not hesitate to use a K&N filter either, but I prefer Toyota. They're even black.
I used the Wix filters on my Evo for years..cheaper then the K&N..but the nut on the bottom idea is a good one. Evo's use a 30 micron filter. The Wix is a 28 micron..never had a problem.
I forgot which K&N filter is suggested for the early/mid 80's EVOs with the weird metric thread, but it is the same thread as my Ducati motorcycles, so I have been using the KN-153 filter with the HD, also. The 153 is black instead of chrome. I've been using the 153 for about 10k miles, so far without any issues. I compared the specs between the 153 and the one that is actually recommended for my HD, but I forgot what the difference was.
Buddy, did K&N state why you shouldn't use a filter with an anti-drain back valve?
"Buddy, did K&N state why you shouldn't use a filter with an anti-drain back valve?"
Kramer Krazy- the thread pitch is 3/4" UNF for HD
K&N Tech guy told me that: " a couple evos softails on record had exploded K&N oil filters w/the anti-drain back valve"..
Dr.Hess-
And went on further to say that HD built 'mymodel Evos' to run with out one, so they do NOT recommend using one... Certain evos do use the KN-171, just not mine.......
My evos have some miles on em.. So I'm not gonna rock the boat at this time..
An anti-drainback valve on an evo big twin is not needed, as the filter is in the return line to the tank. Typically, anti-drainback valves are used where the filter is mounted horizontally, like on the block of a 22R. Without the valve, the oil drains out of the filter and it takes that much longer to come up to pressure on a start cycle. On an evo with the filter in the return line, there's no need for it because it doesn't matter if the oil drains back, really. I don't know about softtails, but that's how my FLHT is plumbed. On an evo sportster, though, the filter is in the oil feed line to the motor and mounted horizontally, so a anti-drainback valve would be helpful. The specs that WIX lists for HD's shows the valve in their recommended filters.
I've been using the same filter as a 22R motor on both bikes for the last 22 years. 75K on mine, 50K on hers, from different manufacturers, but all Genuine Toyota for the past 3-4 years after I figgered out it was the same filter. That's gotta be around 60 filters. Of those, I'd guestimate that maybe 5 were Genuine H.D., maybe 5 were "made for H.D." from the aftermarket shop and the rest were Supertech (good quality, actually), a few Frams (till I learned what junk they are), a couple odd ones, and the Toyota OEM filters.
Anyone have a Genuine H.D. filter handy? Is there a valve in the bottom?
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