Drip-Drip-Drip
Been one of those that know you learn more by listening than talking, but could use some help on this one. Changed all fluids on '96 Ultra three weeks ago and absolutely cannot get the chain inspection cover to stop leaking.
Have done searches, replaced gasket with several types, slightly over and under torqued, even tried new gasket with dried silicone bead ( big mistake). I checked cover flatness on glass, have no rock when put on primary cover without gasket, and have tried mild abrasive lap on chrome mating surfaces.
This is an aftermarket cover but has been installed since I bought the girl in '06. Primary cover looks OK, too. But I can't stop the leak, although I can slow it. Any suggestions, I feel like a dope cause it's such a simple procedure. I'm a certified marine tech so I turn wrenches every day, but this one has me going. Thanks
Have done searches, replaced gasket with several types, slightly over and under torqued, even tried new gasket with dried silicone bead ( big mistake). I checked cover flatness on glass, have no rock when put on primary cover without gasket, and have tried mild abrasive lap on chrome mating surfaces.
This is an aftermarket cover but has been installed since I bought the girl in '06. Primary cover looks OK, too. But I can't stop the leak, although I can slow it. Any suggestions, I feel like a dope cause it's such a simple procedure. I'm a certified marine tech so I turn wrenches every day, but this one has me going. Thanks
Have you tried a gasket from the motor company? The other thing is are the bolts that hold it down bottoming out in the holes before it is tightening the cover.The 2 long bolts should be 1/4-20 X 2 1/2 the shorts are 1/4-20 X 5/8. Hope this helps.
I have checked the inspection cover on glass and it's true. Therefore since it does not rock on the primary cover opening I assume that also is true. Have not come up with any other good tests for warpage.
I had the OEM gasket in place and have cut new .020" gaskets to match OEM. I don't know what the difference would be, but I'll probably try picking up one from dealer tomarrow. Interesting on the screw length though. Didn't notice the difference. Will check. That's why I'm here. Thanks.
I had the OEM gasket in place and have cut new .020" gaskets to match OEM. I don't know what the difference would be, but I'll probably try picking up one from dealer tomarrow. Interesting on the screw length though. Didn't notice the difference. Will check. That's why I'm here. Thanks.
Also clean the female threads of all oil and also the screws Put the cover on with the gaskets and alittle clear silicon Put silicon on the screw threads Let the bike sit over night then give er hell !
I lost 2 timing covers and warped 1 before I realized thet were supposed to be attached with slightly wedge-head screws rather than the allen head bolts that were on it when I bought it.
That's an aftermarket cover(?), so look closely where the bolts contact the surface. Those are "blind holes" where they screw it, so they can't leak by the threads, but if the attaching bolts/screws are incorrect, it will cause warpage, and let it relax when removed, and check as flat. I have the best luck with clear RTV silicone for gasket surfaces. (my experience)
I'm just making a guess...
That's an aftermarket cover(?), so look closely where the bolts contact the surface. Those are "blind holes" where they screw it, so they can't leak by the threads, but if the attaching bolts/screws are incorrect, it will cause warpage, and let it relax when removed, and check as flat. I have the best luck with clear RTV silicone for gasket surfaces. (my experience)
I'm just making a guess...
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Update on leak---Started the process again. Pulled the cover and checked gasket integrity, screws and bore depth, primary case for distortion, and dropped the cover on a glass sheet. Had no rock to corners and ends were flat to the pane, spun the cover and Holy crap, I could see thru both sides. My problem apparently is I need some stronger damn glasses.
I surfaced the back side and reinstalled. Waited till the snow was gone from the roads and took her for a 30 mile ride. Checked at about 10 mile stops and it's dry. I knew I had to be missing something obvious. I've always learned best by screwing up first.
One other thing I noticed was that after a warmup and cooldown cycle it's a good idea to recheck torque. Both covers need retorquing. Thanks for all the suggestions. BTW, I looked all over the shop for a tube of clamidia, but couldn't find one. Must be a regional thing.
I surfaced the back side and reinstalled. Waited till the snow was gone from the roads and took her for a 30 mile ride. Checked at about 10 mile stops and it's dry. I knew I had to be missing something obvious. I've always learned best by screwing up first.
One other thing I noticed was that after a warmup and cooldown cycle it's a good idea to recheck torque. Both covers need retorquing. Thanks for all the suggestions. BTW, I looked all over the shop for a tube of clamidia, but couldn't find one. Must be a regional thing.
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