clutch cable help
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
clutch cable help
I've had to adjust the cable twice in the last 300 miles, each time making it a little tighter (the nut on the cable didn't loosen on its own). Does this mean my cable is stretching and needs to be replaced soon? If so, how the hell do you do that? Also, I just drained and refilled my trannny fluid with RedLine, which was previously used by the PO. I MAY have filled it a bit too high judging by the dipstick - can that cause any problems?
(If it matters, the bike has an open primary and I have no idea if an aftermarket clutch was put it - I suppose so because it now has a dry clutch, right? Also, if it matters, apparently the PO had the engine fitted with high compression pistons bringing it to an 11/1 ratio. I've only had the bike for about 500 miles and it didn't come with any receipts of work done).
Thanks.
(If it matters, the bike has an open primary and I have no idea if an aftermarket clutch was put it - I suppose so because it now has a dry clutch, right? Also, if it matters, apparently the PO had the engine fitted with high compression pistons bringing it to an 11/1 ratio. I've only had the bike for about 500 miles and it didn't come with any receipts of work done).
Thanks.
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 328
Likes: 72
From: SE TN
Clutch cable replacement is simple..(also described in yer Manual)
You would need a tranny end cap gasket, drain tranny, pop off cap replace cable & reinstall & connect to lever, & properly adjust..
A New clutch cable can stretch a bit. But yours sounds like it may ? have been on a while ? (correct me if wrong )
You 'riding' the clutch ?
Or if the oem clutches are still in the open belt drive kit, that could be the
cause of premature wear..
Overfilling the tranny can cause leaks.. You are checking it up-right level ?
C/R of 11:1 is a bit high for a street motor, I would be concerned about pinging/detonating ... Use the Highest grade gas U can find..
You would need a tranny end cap gasket, drain tranny, pop off cap replace cable & reinstall & connect to lever, & properly adjust..
A New clutch cable can stretch a bit. But yours sounds like it may ? have been on a while ? (correct me if wrong )
You 'riding' the clutch ?
Or if the oem clutches are still in the open belt drive kit, that could be the
cause of premature wear..
Overfilling the tranny can cause leaks.. You are checking it up-right level ?
C/R of 11:1 is a bit high for a street motor, I would be concerned about pinging/detonating ... Use the Highest grade gas U can find..
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 237
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Thanks. I doubt the original clutch is in the open primary - the PO seemed to take good care of the bike and did things (it would appear) right. I'm sure the cable has seen a lot of use. I'm not riding the clutch (although there is very little freeplay in the lever but I'd know if it wasn't fully disengaging, right?) I'll check tranny level again. Being that I'll just drain and check till it's good, is it better to be a little high or a little low? Also, so I check it upright; do I check it warm or cold?. Thanks
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 328
Likes: 72
From: SE TN
a HD Service Manual is a very essential tool for everyone.
To check for clutch slippage, (after full warm-up temp) get it going & quickly throw it up into Too high of a gear & give it a handful of throttle, if the motor speeds up more than the bike you have yer answer..
The tranny can be checked either way, stick has a hi-full & lo-full mark.
You should be in that range.. I shoot for the hi-full..
You say you keep adjusting cable, then post cable has very little free-play ??
Are U adjusting it to spec ??
To check for clutch slippage, (after full warm-up temp) get it going & quickly throw it up into Too high of a gear & give it a handful of throttle, if the motor speeds up more than the bike you have yer answer..
The tranny can be checked either way, stick has a hi-full & lo-full mark.
You should be in that range.. I shoot for the hi-full..
You say you keep adjusting cable, then post cable has very little free-play ??
Are U adjusting it to spec ??
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 2,574
From: NC USA
Those clutch cables are very strong and tough - seldom give any problems and the transmission lube has no bearing on any of that. The pistons don't either, unless the clutch is being overpowered, in which case the cable would loose "free-play" rather than gain, due to the nature of the release mechanism.
Evo's used 3 different types of clutch arrangements over the production years. Then, there are a number of aftermarket arrangements. So, what clutch do you actually have? What year bike? A photo of the clutch would tell, regardless of the bike.
Evo's used 3 different types of clutch arrangements over the production years. Then, there are a number of aftermarket arrangements. So, what clutch do you actually have? What year bike? A photo of the clutch would tell, regardless of the bike.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 12
From: Arizona
you say you have a open primary, which type, i also have a open primary, bdl, and just installed a new cable. first thing id do is adjust the free play at the clutch bracket. you know, loosen the cable completely then adjust the free play at the clutch. i turned mine in then backed it out 1/2 turn, then i adjusted the cable to end up with 1/8th play at the lever.
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 328
Likes: 1
From: South Central Virginia
my 2 cents
you say you have a open primary, which type, i also have a open primary, bdl, and just installed a new cable. first thing id do is adjust the free play at the clutch bracket. you know, loosen the cable completely then adjust the free play at the clutch. i turned mine in then backed it out 1/2 turn, then i adjusted the cable to end up with 1/8th play at the lever.
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 837
Likes: 1
From: NORVA / Pittsboro, IN
Just a question. What made you think it (Cable) needed adjusting in 300 miles. What was it doing? Others here will tell you as well that, after releasing the cable adjuster jam nut and backing off the cable adjuster completely (like in prep for lubing the cable) the first adjustment is the center screw on the clutch release plate at the Spring Diaphragm. This sets the free travel at the release bearing (on the opposite side, right hand, inside the trap door) by adjusting the length of the push tube that runs thru the main shaft from the ball and ramp assembly (trap door side) to the release plate that pushes the pressure plate away from friction plates. (1/2 - 3/4 turn out after contact of rod on tube. A sense of feel thing)
Then you adjust the Cable to allow 1/16" or so at the lever. As the friction plates wear, the pressure plate will move toward the right side (trap door) and essentially reduce the free travel on the release bearing (located at the ball and ramp assembly). My guess is that is why you should reset you center bolt (free travel rod adjustment) at 5K with oil change.
Then you adjust the Cable to allow 1/16" or so at the lever. As the friction plates wear, the pressure plate will move toward the right side (trap door) and essentially reduce the free travel on the release bearing (located at the ball and ramp assembly). My guess is that is why you should reset you center bolt (free travel rod adjustment) at 5K with oil change.
Last edited by FLGEEZ; Dec 7, 2008 at 10:08 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
Great info - I need to either get a manual or just take it in to be properly adjusted.
What was happening is that when I went from neutral to first gear, the bike would lunge forward (while clutch lever was still pulled in) and even once the bike was at operating temp, if I had it in gear and the clutch lever pulled in, the bike would still "pull" forward. I would then adjust that nut on the cable to make the cable tighter and all would be fine (for a while). In fact, yesterday during a toy ride I had to tighten it up again even though I did it the day before (and when I say tighten, I mean adjust the cable so the clutch lever doesn't have but a bit of free play - a sort of back and forth adjustment until it seems right).
What was happening is that when I went from neutral to first gear, the bike would lunge forward (while clutch lever was still pulled in) and even once the bike was at operating temp, if I had it in gear and the clutch lever pulled in, the bike would still "pull" forward. I would then adjust that nut on the cable to make the cable tighter and all would be fine (for a while). In fact, yesterday during a toy ride I had to tighten it up again even though I did it the day before (and when I say tighten, I mean adjust the cable so the clutch lever doesn't have but a bit of free play - a sort of back and forth adjustment until it seems right).