Don't get me started!
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 3
From: Peoria, AZ
Don't get me started!
Bike's a '97 FLSTC and I have a perplexing problem: when I hit the starter button, the starter just spins without turning the engine over. When I took the primary cover off, the jacking gear was extended out and partially engaged with the clutch ring gear and, if I expended the gear by hand, it would stick there unless I tweaked the primary chain, then it would snap back (the only visible symptom). Both gears look fine, in fact, look new despite 85K on the bike. Clutch gear was well lubed and is similarly "new" looking": the whole clutch looked good mechanically. All armatures have 90 degree edges and the brushes are excellent shape. History: four months ago, I had the compensator-clutch assembly and inner primary case off to replace a leaking o-ring at the engine side which also meant starter/gear removal. On assembly, I verified the clutch to drive gear alignment and, as far as I know, put everything together correctly: am I missing something somewhere like an inner primary case alignment procedure not in the service manual? Seems like a starter gear clearance problem but everything worked fine up to a month ago when I had periodic spinning progressively getting worse until I charged the battery last week, then it consistantly spun: I had thought the starter clutch was hosed. The only thing I can figure is the transmission (starter mount) or case (where jacking gear assembly is housed) is out of alignment (and I missed a step during the primary case install) so I have to realign somehow to get starter gear mesh correct. Anyone had a similar problem and can unstick my brain fart?
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 3
From: Peoria, AZ
Welllllll...
Nope my brakes are fine! LOL If you're talking about the starter clutch, P/N 31516-94, I think so too but I hate buying something without knowing for SURE (never heard it called that tho'). Rather have pieces of something in my hand or a stripped gear: something I can see. Thought it was before I took it apart but I guess I tend to "over-complicate" the thinking process instead of K.I.S.S. and looking at the obvious. If it were a car, I'd just change the whole starter but bet THAT costs more than $118 (and without a Bar & Shield on it!)! Off to get the part tomorrow...
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 535
Likes: 14
From: Highspire Pa
I think I paid about $119.00 with free shipping from Jireh to get a new 1.4 KW replacement starter- it has been in our '90 Ultra (FLHTCU) with a 80" evo for about 1 year and 10,000 miles and it seemed OK. We recently upgraded to an Ultima 113" with higher compression and don't know how well the 1.4KW starter will hold up with that.
I think I have the top post 1.4 KW Chrome Plated Ultima Thunder Fire 70-220 @ $119.95,
but I might have been better off getting a 1.75 KW for 10 bucks more, which includes the push button end cap ( not included on the 1.4)
I think I have the top post 1.4 KW Chrome Plated Ultima Thunder Fire 70-220 @ $119.95,
but I might have been better off getting a 1.75 KW for 10 bucks more, which includes the push button end cap ( not included on the 1.4)
Last edited by pajoe; Dec 27, 2008 at 05:26 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,269
Likes: 12
From: NJ
Sounds like your Bendix to me also(call it a starter clutch if you will) When you've worked on hot rods throughout your life,you start calling it a bendix drive 
Mine did the same thing about 10 years ago........The starter clutch was about 30 bucks if i remember right
Mine did the same thing about 10 years ago........The starter clutch was about 30 bucks if i remember right
Last edited by HD7585; Dec 27, 2008 at 07:22 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
On the starter jackshaft assembly there is a part called the coupling ( connects the jack shaft assembly to the starter motor ) If this coupling isn't installed right ( circlip facing toward the starter ) could be the problem Maybe
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 3
From: Peoria, AZ
Think I'll go for the part: hate to waste a good part when it can be repaired (or I'm a glutton for punishment)! I wish it were the coupling backwards: easy enough to flip over but it was in there right. Already learned that one from when I did the alternator-inner primary job. The starter clutch has the "feel" of a bad bearing (heavy, grinding-kind of drag) in the CCW, free-wheeling direction so hopefully that fixes the prob (esp. when SM flowchart lists this as probable cause). Like I said, I over-think stuff sometimes and thought maybe I missed something in the book (like fire ring clearance NOT listed in the shovelheads SM!) and was one of those "unwritten" things everyone knows about except me! I procrastinate: it's cold out and I have to get the part... will post after I get the Beeotch back together and it's running again later today (knock on wood).
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 3
From: Peoria, AZ
It... is... a-liiiiiive.... replaced the starter clutch and it works once again! Fires right up! Lessons learned: believe my SM even if it doesn't make sense to me, pay attention to where you put down parts and tools during assembly & disassembly to save time searching, do not turn over the armature housing because the thing will fall out and you'll need to put it back through the brushes which is a PITA, don't assume you have enough replacement primary fluid at home when you're at the dealers because you probably don't (had to mix 4 oz of Lucas gear oil to the mix), don't forget the oil before you take it out for test rides (almost did it!), don't rebuild the starter indoors because the grease inside (black moly?) is very messy & hard to get out of the carpet and the important one: I need a lift to work on cuz my back is killing me! Have to take it out for a spin tomorrow after "de-greasing" my skinner prints off everything; was getting tired of riding around on the Sportster so much. Thanks for the feedback.
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 328
Likes: 72
From: SE TN
well, that was simple..
FWIW: I add the hand push-starter engage button on starter solenoid end..(bendix)
Cost about $20 retail.
Just in case, cause you will still get started, & get home..
FWIW: I add the hand push-starter engage button on starter solenoid end..(bendix)
Cost about $20 retail.
Just in case, cause you will still get started, & get home..
Last edited by Buddy7394; Dec 27, 2008 at 11:27 PM.
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