EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Narrow belt

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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Many thanks John. I have since worked out I would have 1/20 inch clearance between my existing belt and a 150 tyre! That is based on measuring my bike with its 140 in place, and half the difference in the width of the two tyres.

Will a new narrow rear wheel pulley have an offset compared with my wide one, like you described modifying my present one?
Maybe ??? when you start changing pulley's you need a good supply of shims. It's a law in pulley swapping "The more you have, the less you need"
 
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 96 Wide Glide
John, when you say " turn it down", are you talking lathe ? I was thinking they would just put it on a milling machine.
Regardless, I've taken the leap of faith, and bid on a matching 1.5" Performance Machine pulley on ebay, for a fraction of the cost of P.M making me a 1 1/8". The backplate on the P.M pulleys, definately look like their attached with allen screws, so that should'nt be a problem.
The only thing I'm concerned with is, what effect this is going to have on alignment.
The flange where the pulley attaches to the wheel does'nt change, and the outer edge of the pulley remains where it would be for a 1.5" belt. I have no way of moving the outer ring of the pulley the 3/16" closer to the wheel, that the 1 1/8th pulley would be.
Guessing I'll have to do it with wheel spacing.
You have it backwards the outer ring stays the same, the inner ring is moved outward to give more clearance. The outer flanges of both pulley's have to line up. Yes you do it on a lathe so thatyou can replicate the contour so that you can re-swage the flange on. You do the same with aftermarket pulley's except some of them bolt on.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 05:41 AM
  #23  
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John,

This is all good stuff and many thanks for all your help and information. I assume that the tooth profile of later narrow belts is the same as our old Evo belts, so we can mix and match old pulleys with newer ones?

I can begin to see my way through all this now! With a 1 1/4" belt I should be able to get just over 1/4" clearance between a 150 wide tyre and the new belt. That would be great.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 06:05 AM
  #24  
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They are the same tooth patern, hence the same style belt.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 02:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by miacycles
If you are making any kind of power and carrying a load the 1" belt will probably leave you sitting alongside the road somewhere. They are basically made for the show circuit. Now I know someone will say "I know a guy that is running one" Well he won't for long, don't ask me how I know!!
I'm with miacycles on this one. If you've got a light bike, not much horsepower, and don't ride very hard, you may get by with one for a while. Otherwise, you're on borrowed time. With a 150 plus, and some horsepower, you will snap them regularly if you're riding hard, not to mention pulley wear.

I run a chain, and clear a 150 no problem. A good chain doesn't make a mess or require a bunch of maintenance.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 03:06 PM
  #26  
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I thought all the new models, including the V-rods, were running 1" or less?
 
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 07:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 96 Wide Glide
I thought all the new models, including the V-rods, were running 1" or less?
Let's see V-Rod light bike no torque down low. The others have Fly by wire that when you snap the throttle open it takes it a while to react fully. If you break a belt then Harleywill replace it and make a note. Thenwhen it gets enough notes it will change thing and not even thank it's "test Pilots".
 
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 05:00 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 96 FXD
I'm with miacycles on this one. If you've got a light bike, not much horsepower, and don't ride very hard, you may get by with one for a while. Otherwise, you're on borrowed time. With a 150 plus, and some horsepower, you will snap them regularly if you're riding hard, not to mention pulley wear.

I run a chain, and clear a 150 no problem. A good chain doesn't make a mess or require a bunch of maintenance.
I have an S&S 107, with just over 100HP and 100TQ at the rear wheel, take annual long trips 2-up and fully loaded, so don't want any drive problems! Hopefully if I go to a current factory narrow belt it should prove reliable.

Another possibility (writing as I think) is to somehow shift my current wide belt drive away from the tyre a little, just to improve clearance to a more reasonable level. It will be a few weeks before I get the bike rebuilt with a 150 tyre installed (with swapping out swingarms). When I start stripping the bike I will be able to look into the front pulley area and see what I am dealing with. John mentioned shimming the rear pulley and if there is room to do that on the front pulley I now have two ways of progressing with this.

I haven't ridden a bike with an exposed chain since 1977 and don't intend going back. Belts are the new chains! I love'em.
 

Last edited by grbrown; Nov 8, 2009 at 05:01 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 06:08 AM
  #29  
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GR,
As I previously stated: We have a 150 Avon on the rear of our '95 and all we did was shim the rear pully out .060" for a little more clearance. On our bike the belt was running a little away from the front pulley flange so it was no problem. Even so that little bit of movement really wont make a difference.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 08:54 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by miacycles
GR,
As I previously stated: We have a 150 Avon on the rear of our '95 and all we did was shim the rear pully out .060" for a little more clearance. On our bike the belt was running a little away from the front pulley flange so it was no problem. Even so that little bit of movement really wont make a difference.
John,

I will be making a start on my swingarm swap shortly, when I can take a better look at the front pulley. The winter weather has just got to us, so there is no excuse now for keeping the bike roadworthy! I also now realise what you meant earlier by just adding a shim. If that is all it needs, that really will be almost too good to be true! Are these shims available as a ready made part, or something you made up yourself?
 
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