Tech Question..Lifter Noise.
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From: In a house
Tech Question..Lifter Noise.
Installed an Andrews EV46 Cam into a 94 Evo. All went well til I fired it up. Seems to run good but have all sorts of lifter noise.
I kept the stock lifters and installed adjustable "EZ" pushrods (Crane) . Adjusted everything, 2.5 turns at TDC. BUt can't seem to get rid of the tick tick tick.
I have adjusted pushrods many times. Could it be a lifter issue?
Was getting late and I am frustrated and hoped someone here could shed some light on the sunject. Im sure it's something stupid but any input will be appreciated.
Thanks
R/T
I kept the stock lifters and installed adjustable "EZ" pushrods (Crane) . Adjusted everything, 2.5 turns at TDC. BUt can't seem to get rid of the tick tick tick.
I have adjusted pushrods many times. Could it be a lifter issue?
Was getting late and I am frustrated and hoped someone here could shed some light on the sunject. Im sure it's something stupid but any input will be appreciated.
Thanks
R/T
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
Some "noise" will be SOP for a cam upgrade. A tick can be caused by a loose (mismatched) cam/pinion gear usually heard on the right side. A lifter will make a deep knock if starved for oil, or a loud "thack" if misadjusted.
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From: In a house
I suspect a pushrod adjustment issue. What would be the correct way to adjust the pushrods with stock lifters?
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Bedford , Pa
Did you let the lifters pump up.Got to let it run for a couple minutes. I just did a cam swap and used the SE push rods and had a ticking. and shut it down ,thought I did something wrong. Was told to let it run till the lifters pumped themselves up. So I did and no more noise.
HDF Community Team
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From: NC USA
2 1/2 is correct for Crane timesavers. Lots of combinations for positioning the cam, and hard to get them to stop where you want with the starter. I generally roll it over till one exhaust is starting to open, then adjust both pushrods on the opposite cylinder. Let them bleed down till you can roll both with your fingers, then position engine so the exhaust on the newly adjusted cylinder is starting to open and adjust the second culinder.
Andrews generally does NOT mark their cam gears with a paint dot. As mentioned earlier, if the cam gear is too small for the pinion gear, that WILL cause a ticking. (won't hurt anything) But all of their gears I ever used were a "red" or "blue" size.
Matching the cam gear to the pinion gear has nothing to do with having 2 gears that have been run together a long time - it's all about pitch angle on the teeth....
Andrews generally does NOT mark their cam gears with a paint dot. As mentioned earlier, if the cam gear is too small for the pinion gear, that WILL cause a ticking. (won't hurt anything) But all of their gears I ever used were a "red" or "blue" size.
Matching the cam gear to the pinion gear has nothing to do with having 2 gears that have been run together a long time - it's all about pitch angle on the teeth....
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Tourer
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From: Western NC
Just a small question here...did you use any kind of alignment tool for your lifter blocks? I would be hard for those lifters to pump up if they weren't getting any oil.
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From: OLDS, ALBERTA
lifter noise
Sometimes lifter noise can be from low oil pressure, several builders install a LMR2 spring on the oil pump bypass or shim the stock spring with a small washer or 2. You can install the new spring or shim the stock without removing the cam plate if you are careful. I run a 131 with Andrews 67 G camss and used the LMR spring with 2 washers used as shims, it idles at about 25- 30 lbs hot and runs 45lbs at 1500 rpm on up and I have no lifter noise. Perfect washers for shims are the small washers sold for use with pop rivets. Your lifter adjustment will depend on the lifters as well as the pushrods depending on the thread count on the pushrods. REED
Last edited by REED; Mar 29, 2009 at 06:42 PM.
HDF Community Team
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From: NC USA
No offense to anyone but...
1- It plainly states in the Factory Manual to NOT, under any circumstances, shim the pressure spring.
2- A stronger spring or a trick aftermarket external "adjuster" does nothing but fool the rider and the top end into thinking the machine is oiling better.
If too much shim is used, the relief valve may not be able to open far enough to allow ample oil to the bottom end (crank bearings). When a stronger spring is used, it forces the pump to push more oil to the top end before ample volume is supplied to the bottom end. The point where pressure is measured by gauge or light switch is on the journal to the lifters, not the crank. Don't take my word for this, look at the diagram in the book, it's in black and white (plus a little blue and red) and it's as simple and straightforward as it gets.
There are a gozillion Evos out there with 5-12 lb of oil pressure that don't tick or rattle so if you need mega-pressure to quiten one down, best look elsewhere than oil pressure, cause something ain't right.
1- It plainly states in the Factory Manual to NOT, under any circumstances, shim the pressure spring.
2- A stronger spring or a trick aftermarket external "adjuster" does nothing but fool the rider and the top end into thinking the machine is oiling better.
If too much shim is used, the relief valve may not be able to open far enough to allow ample oil to the bottom end (crank bearings). When a stronger spring is used, it forces the pump to push more oil to the top end before ample volume is supplied to the bottom end. The point where pressure is measured by gauge or light switch is on the journal to the lifters, not the crank. Don't take my word for this, look at the diagram in the book, it's in black and white (plus a little blue and red) and it's as simple and straightforward as it gets.
There are a gozillion Evos out there with 5-12 lb of oil pressure that don't tick or rattle so if you need mega-pressure to quiten one down, best look elsewhere than oil pressure, cause something ain't right.
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