I need HELP!!!
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
I need HELP!!!
I am trying to replace the main oil seal in my 88 FXR, in my manual it states, "oil seals will always be inserted with company markings out" ; however the oil seal (that was leaking like a sieve) was put in opposite to that. This bike was left to me by my step-father when he passed, so I don't know if the shop he was taking it to did it, or it was the original seal.
PLEASE HELP, I'm running out of daylight!
-Dustin
PLEASE HELP, I'm running out of daylight!
-Dustin
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
That seal you,re taking out is right It is reversed ( For wet clutch systems ) As you look at the seal concave as you look at it The dry clutch systems the seals are convex the seal markings facing you (shovelheads etc )
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
Hold on Grasshopper... Never throw-off on or pre-judge another persons work - NEVER.
I've wrenched a lot of years and anyone else who has will tell you the same; there's a lot of freaky things can go wrong without reason, often beyond explaination by anyone. And unless you're there when work is done to know the circumstances, or it's an obvious butcher job by the "blue-glue brothers," you're virtually wishing bad luck on yourself to condemn another persons work.
SqdealGeorge told you right - spring out for wet clutch, spring in (toward flywheel) for dry. And I hope you bought a new bearing spacer, or if you polished the wear groove out of that one it has not been polished once or twice before, else you'll be back in there to replace it - guaranteed.
But I DO wish you good luck with your seal!
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14
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It might be like calling the kettle black, but they should know. I'm just a rookie (and that doesn't even really describe how unexperienced I am with working on bikes). But it is a wet clutch, so it was right? I couldn't get it in there anyhow so I can still do it right. Now I wonder why it was leaking so bad into the primary though.... is that normal after a seal wears out??
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,137
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From: South Carolina
I have never understood the reasoning for the way HD says to install these seals, one way for dry clutch, the other way for wet...
These are standard oil seals used in hundreds of different machinery applications.
The spring side goes toward the side where the oil is, at least on all my machines...and they don`t leak.
These are standard oil seals used in hundreds of different machinery applications.
The spring side goes toward the side where the oil is, at least on all my machines...and they don`t leak.
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Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14
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Either way it's done, what do you all suggest for getting that sucker in there? Auto mains are much easier as they are mostly rubber and squeeze into the channel. This one is mostly brass and has no give...at all. Unfortunately the bearing spacer blocks me from using a large socket like I've done for car motors. I'll tell you working on this thing has been a challenge. 
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
Ok stackmasta. Nobody here trying to pizz you off - really. In fact, regardless of anyones experience, or lack of, I have a tremondous respect for anyone who will try. And I'm sincere about that.
So, what the deal is, you need to keep the primary fluid out of the engine (on a wet clutch setup). If there is a dry clutch setup, which would mean a belt drive installation on your model, then you'd want the engine oil to stay off the belt/chain whatever. If the engine oil is pumping over into the primary, you got breather problems - bad. There are 2 places the fluids can exchange places - one, thru the seal. Second thru the screws where the alternator plug bracket bolts onto the case.
There is a "bearing spacer" that the seal runs on and it's removable when the seal is out. The seal will cut a groove in that and if it's been polished down more than about .010, it'll leak. And, if the seal surface isn't smooth, you'll get the same results. List price for that spacer is about 13.00.
You can knock the seal in with a broken hammer handle, so long as it's flush with the case when you're done. I've used a special installation tool for that seal and still had some leak.... had better luck with a broke handle actually. A 4-wheel drive socket about the right OD from the Sunday parts store works pretty good for me.
So, forgive us old codgers if we are a bit cynical at times... we forget to take our medication
but we're all here to help, really.....
So, what the deal is, you need to keep the primary fluid out of the engine (on a wet clutch setup). If there is a dry clutch setup, which would mean a belt drive installation on your model, then you'd want the engine oil to stay off the belt/chain whatever. If the engine oil is pumping over into the primary, you got breather problems - bad. There are 2 places the fluids can exchange places - one, thru the seal. Second thru the screws where the alternator plug bracket bolts onto the case.
There is a "bearing spacer" that the seal runs on and it's removable when the seal is out. The seal will cut a groove in that and if it's been polished down more than about .010, it'll leak. And, if the seal surface isn't smooth, you'll get the same results. List price for that spacer is about 13.00.
You can knock the seal in with a broken hammer handle, so long as it's flush with the case when you're done. I've used a special installation tool for that seal and still had some leak.... had better luck with a broke handle actually. A 4-wheel drive socket about the right OD from the Sunday parts store works pretty good for me.
So, forgive us old codgers if we are a bit cynical at times... we forget to take our medication
but we're all here to help, really.....