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Extra lights are bad do-do for the older bikes, as the stock charging system was marginal to begin with. If you do intend to ever run a trailer, I would definitely install a separate relay for those lights. I'm in the process of considering the possibiliy of eventually doing that to my FLHS.
When you get it sorted out, make sure to post up what you found. And how you fixed it.
I have been pulling a trailer with my 90 ultra for several yrs using the Hoppy trailer wiring converter 46255. I got it at advanced auto parts. It doesn't use the bike wiring for voltage/ampere to run the trailer lights. it uses the battery voltage and uses the bike wiring as a signal to activate the converter. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...R%7CGRPSESWAMS____
I used the other Hoppy 5->4 wire converter on my bike. I'm putting LED bulbs in my trailer, so the extra draw will be quite small. I also replaced the fender tip bulbs with LEDs from superbrightleds.com. Those fender tip things were drawing 3 amps each!
For the original poster's problem, extra brake lights are a no-no, in my opinion. Those 1157 or 1156 bulbs really suck up the current. The original handlebar brake light switch is very reliable. If you're blowing them, you have other issues, as has been stated, and the extra brake lights sure sound like it to me. The voltage on your dash volt meter may or may not accurately reflect what's going on. It only (somewhat) accurately reflects what the voltage is at the point where it ties into the rest of the electrical system, after a dozen electrical connections, each introducing some loss.
You can tell how much current is going in your brake circuit with an amp meter, or the amp portion of a multi-meter, which you should have anyway. With the meter set on amps, say the 10 amp scale, put one wire on each pin of your brake switch and it will tell you how much is flowing. That's just a FYI, as I'm sure the extra lights are your problem.
The stock brake light wire runs from under your seat to a plug under the left side cover by the rear brake resivoir, then along side the left fender strut, then turns into the fender at the back, goes a short distance under the fender and to the light.
thanks for your help. The connector at the rear near brake reservior is where the trailer lights were spliced in with those blue crimp connectors. I removed them but am left with the squished red wire. The inside connection has 2 red wires, have checked those. One goes to brakelight, other to cruise. Anyway, have cleaned up the ground in that area. By the way, I disconnected the rear switch, connected the leads with a paper clip, and left the brake lights on for 1 minute seemed longer. I was wiggling wires in the meantime. Paper clip was hot(Expected that) but the lights stayed on rather uneventfully. Also the brakelight in the tourpak was on.Therefore do I need to look from the connection forward up to front switch or should I just remove the additional brake lights. I think you know which one it is. I will call it the moustache bar with the taillight\brakelight combo, circa 1989-90. And if I do add a circuit breaker if all else fails would I add it to the red side[only hot when switch closed] or orange side[always hot].
The fender tip LEDs were only like five bucks each. WLED-AHP6 for the front, WLED-RHP6 for the rear and they plug right in with no other mods needed. That's a lot cheaper than a shovelhead. I bet you could afford both. Well, actually, if you buy a shovelhead, you'll need all the extra money you can get your hands on for parts.
Circuit breaker would be on the orange side, but it already has one - the acc circuit breaker supplys voltage for the break lights and turn signals. Assuming I read your last post correctly, there is no ground (necessary) at the rear brake light switch. I don't know what you consider "hot" but the paper clip should not have gotten more than warm at the most.
The wires to the TourPak light(s) are usually cramed down between the fender and the fender strut rail and terminate behind the left side cover. Besides the grounds for the bulbs, those 2 places is where I'd go from here.....
That's a lot cheaper than a shovelhead. I bet you could afford both. Well, actually, if you buy a shovelhead, you'll need all the extra money you can get your hands on for parts.
Yeah, that might be true... However when God gave The MoCo the nod to build the shovel, he also told them that it need straight pipes to sound 'heavenly'. Obviously they didn't listen and thus we have the EVO...
And I don't know what would be more expensive the Shovel or the Divorce. Aw... She'll get over it....
You could just put the shovelhead in the garage and look at it while it drips oil on the floor. That way it wouldn't cost you extra to keep it running. It appears that's all the last owner did with it.
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