Hey all.

I'm trying to track down a carb cough on my 98 fxd and I don't have the right tool to get at the intake manifold bolts to see if they are loose. They are hex heads. Not sure what size. I have to go to Sears today anyway.
What's the best tool?

Thanks-

 

A 3/8" allen head socket set and a wobble extension for the manifold to carb bolts. A allen arm set with a ball end and a allen arm set you can cut down to "just right" for the manifold to head bolts.

 

There is a special allen wrench that jerih cycle sells that I use. I doubt that sears will have it. i hope that i attached a picture and url, the part # is 97-274.

you might be able to heat a ball end allen wrench, and bend it to get in between the cylinders. on my 95 ultra two of the bolts are hex head and two are allen head.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5a~Z5Z5Z5ABKOY

later..............

 

Thanks for the info guys. Yeah all 4 are allen heads. I was able to get to the right one on the rear jug last time I took off the carb and it was loose. Don't tell anyone, but I actually went at the other 3 with pair of pumps (pliars) but all it did was muss them up a little. I have to get the carb off again anyway so I figured I might as well get the right tool.

C-

 

could you describe your "carb cough"? I'd like to compare symptoms.

 

Try Georges Garage on line. They sell all kinds of quality tools cheap.

 

Sure I can describe it. It's like a back fire out of the carb. Happens from off idle to about 1/4 throttle and it's intermittent. Happens when the motor is cold or warmed up. Once warmed up I can go thru the gears and it doesn't normally happen. It's usually when I decel and then accel again. My pipes pop on decel too.

I can be doing 75mph on the highway or cruising slow thru town and if I close the throttle then open it again the carb will fart or cough for a split sec then goes on running fine. Probably happens about 20-40% of the time.

This is a stock 98 fxd with V&H straight shots with normal baffles, an SE aircleaner and a CV carb with a dynojet kit with a 170 main with the clip on the 3rd ring on the DJ needle. The slide has been drilled as per the kit instructions.

This is what I've tried so far...

1. Changed the slow jet from a 42 to a 45.
2. cleaned the carb top to bottom and checked the accel pump spring and diaphram.
3. Took the DynoJet light spring out and put the stock spring back in. (seemed to help a little)
4. I found one bolt on the intake manifold a little loose so I tightened it up but I can't get to the other ones till I get the right tool.
5. I tried spraying wd-40 around the manifold botls to see if the idle changed, but I didn't really hear any change.
6. I have gone from 1/2 turn to 3 1/2 turns in 1/4 turn increments on the mix screw. I can actually turn the screw all the way seated and the bike still idles fine. Doesn't seem to change the idle much if at all when I change the screw settings.

The bike runs good in the upper rpm's. Moves out good when I dig into the throttle from a light. But when just cruising at low rpm's with light even throttle it almost feels like my brakes are lightly dragging. They aren't.

So that's where I'm at today. Tried to get some gaskets for the manifold today but out of stock. That's my next move. Then if that's not it I am going to start moving the clip up on the needle. I just gave this feeling it's a leak.

What's up with yours?

C-

 

with cv carbs I have used a 48 pilot jet with good results...tiny bit rich but no sneezes or farts..
with the mikuni carb I tried the Joe Minton method, and it seems to work well
http://www.americanrider.com/output.cfm?id=1581175

 

it's a 1/4" allen
cut about 1/2" inch off a wrench and use a 1/4 inch drive socket or a 1/4 inch box wrench
once they are loose they are easy

 

Needs tuning read here: Carb Tuning