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Just bought a 1986 fxstc, battery was new, I checked the level and it was low, output is erratic bounces all over from 14.4 up to 15.6 volts. Definetly over charging. Turn on high beam, and turn signals and it comes down and holds a little more stable abound 14.2. Haven't had time to go through the stator checks, but seems more like a regulator acting up, or could it be the connection Reg. to Stator. Any ideas ?
Considering it settles down when the lights are on, sounds close to normal. I assume you have the factory volt gauge? These things were set-up with the intention that the lights would always be on. (yeah, I fixed that on mine too) And assuming it's a stock-type regulator - they actually short to ground via a zener diode which disspates the excess voltage as heat. If it goes, the stator/reg will charge right on up till something gives - usually the battery will take all it can, then cook about the time all the lights pop followed by the ignition module... but usually they overheat a diode and quits all together.
But since you have the gauge, not biggie if you look at it ocassionally. Just unplug it and you can ride a LONG way. I've replaced maybe 50 regulators over time, and I've only seen 2 go WFO.
The above checks are good advise and if all seems well, run your lights all except when starting and if you make long road trips, pick up a spare and carry it with you. (a lot of us do)
PS there is a new type out that doesn't "short" to a diode, rather it opens the circuit. I've not had one fail yet, so I have not cut one open to see exactly how it works, but considering I personally had to change regulator about every 3rd oil change for 15 years, I like the new type as it has lasted 30,000 miles now.
No gauges, this is on a Softail Custom, readings are right off the battery with a meter, I am going to do all the stator checks tomorrow after work, but just looking for some lessons learned, thanks for the input, I'll let you know the results.
Went through all the stator checks today, everything checked good. Replaced regulator, that did it. Putting out 13.8 volts at the battery, regulator seems to kick in and out as needed.
Hey t150tej,
I had one go either high or more likley shorted across the regulator diodes on me. Coming back from Sturgis, north of St. Joe, MO, the volt meter in my faring went really high. Can't remember if it pegged or not, but it was high. The tach read too high for the speed. I turned on all the lights (spots, etc.) and made it in to St. Joe. It fried my battery. It was my original regulator (1986) and that was about 2006 or so, (I could look it up in my log), so I guess 20 years aint' too bad for a regulator. On my shovehead (shudder), I'd go through a couple a year.
Hey t150tej,
I had one go either high or more likley shorted across the regulator diodes on me. Coming back from Sturgis, north of St. Joe, MO, the volt meter in my faring went really high. Can't remember if it pegged or not, but it was high. The tach read too high for the speed. I turned on all the lights (spots, etc.) and made it in to St. Joe. It fried my battery. It was my original regulator (1986) and that was about 2006 or so, (I could look it up in my log), so I guess 20 years aint' too bad for a regulator. On my shovehead (shudder), I'd go through a couple a year.
I'd have put the one that failed regulator on the mantle I'm on my 12th, I think. Hopefully this reverse operating design style will prove a winner. I never noticed my tach high with the one the pegged. I guess I was too busy looking for more light switches till I could stop and unplug it. One lucky aspect for me, except for the headlights, which I only replaced very recently and one front turn bulb, I have all the original bulbs in my '87 100,000 miles.
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