1985 FXWG neutral light out
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Intermediate
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1985 FXWG neutral light out
I have a 1985 FXWG.
The neutral light does not work when the bike is in neutral.
I tested the wiring by grounding the neutral switch wire to the frame and it works fine.
I also replaced the neutral switch in the transmission twice.
Does anyone know how the neutral switch is supposed to work?
It has a pin in the middle that is spring loaded and moves up and down about 1/4 of an inch, but when I connect an ohm meter to it there was no conductivity in the up or down position when I attach one lead to the post at the top and the other to the threads on the side.
Attaced is a picture of the switch.
The neutral light does not work when the bike is in neutral.
I tested the wiring by grounding the neutral switch wire to the frame and it works fine.
I also replaced the neutral switch in the transmission twice.
Does anyone know how the neutral switch is supposed to work?
It has a pin in the middle that is spring loaded and moves up and down about 1/4 of an inch, but when I connect an ohm meter to it there was no conductivity in the up or down position when I attach one lead to the post at the top and the other to the threads on the side.
Attaced is a picture of the switch.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,200
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From: NW AR
Well, at some point, the switch should have conductivity to ground. I don't know if that's when the plunger is in or out, but one way or the other, it should close the switch. If it doesn't, the switch is bad. What could be eating the switches? You have a regular bulb for the neutral light, right? I don't see a huge current draw really being possible in that circuit. Just for the hell of it, put a amp meter across the switch lead and ground and see how much is flowing in that circuit. Or you've just had a bad run on switches. Try a genuine H.D. replacement if you can still get it.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
I know this won't help much, but there are normally open and normally closed switches. It depends on the year and model, and no I don't know which are which and I don't know of anybody that does!!! Most ground out when the plunger is lifted is about all I can say on the subject. I hope this helps a little??
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
Neutral switch works off the shifter drum... and I don't know either - whether it goes up or down in the neutral position, but my best guess would be "up."
Regardless, the switch should have continuity to ground one way or the other. Power goes to the bulb with "key on" and the switch completes the circuit to ground, making the light come on. Simple as that.
Regardless, the switch should have continuity to ground one way or the other. Power goes to the bulb with "key on" and the switch completes the circuit to ground, making the light come on. Simple as that.
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Intermediate
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These are my assumptions about this issue:
1. The positive wire of the neutral light is connected to the battery when the ignition switch is turned on.
2. The negative wire of the neutral light is connected to the post at the top of the neutral switch.
3. The post at the top of the neutral switch is insulated from the neutral switch housing.
4. The ground is the transmission case which is what the neutral switch housing screws into so the neutral switch housing is also the ground.
5. The neutral switch is supposed to complete the curcuit between the post at the top of the switch, where the light bulb negative wire attaches, and the ground (the transmission housing and or the neutral switch housing) when the bike is in neutral.
On all the switches that I tested, when I put one lead of the ohm tester on the neutral switch housing, and the other test lead on the post at the top of the switch the circuit is never completed regardless of whether the long pin at the bottom of the switch is pressed in or not.
The curcuit is only completed if I touch one ohm tester leads to the post at the top of the switch and the other to the long pin at the bottom of the switch regardless of whether the pin is pressed in or not.
I'm wondering whether the long pin at the bottom needs to make contact with something inside the transmission to complete the curcuit. In that case, the movement of the pin doesn't matter. It only need to touch something inside the transmission that is grounded. I'm assuming that would be the shifter drum stated earlier.
That seems like a strange design to me, since transmission oil would most likely prevent a good connection.
Also, all three of the switches I have are HD ($30). I tested the last switch with the ohm meter before I installed it.
1. The positive wire of the neutral light is connected to the battery when the ignition switch is turned on.
2. The negative wire of the neutral light is connected to the post at the top of the neutral switch.
3. The post at the top of the neutral switch is insulated from the neutral switch housing.
4. The ground is the transmission case which is what the neutral switch housing screws into so the neutral switch housing is also the ground.
5. The neutral switch is supposed to complete the curcuit between the post at the top of the switch, where the light bulb negative wire attaches, and the ground (the transmission housing and or the neutral switch housing) when the bike is in neutral.
On all the switches that I tested, when I put one lead of the ohm tester on the neutral switch housing, and the other test lead on the post at the top of the switch the circuit is never completed regardless of whether the long pin at the bottom of the switch is pressed in or not.
The curcuit is only completed if I touch one ohm tester leads to the post at the top of the switch and the other to the long pin at the bottom of the switch regardless of whether the pin is pressed in or not.
I'm wondering whether the long pin at the bottom needs to make contact with something inside the transmission to complete the curcuit. In that case, the movement of the pin doesn't matter. It only need to touch something inside the transmission that is grounded. I'm assuming that would be the shifter drum stated earlier.
That seems like a strange design to me, since transmission oil would most likely prevent a good connection.
Also, all three of the switches I have are HD ($30). I tested the last switch with the ohm meter before I installed it.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,008
Likes: 464
you've got me on this one. I've only had the top cover off mine once in 25 years and it was to replace a broken shifter shaft. didn't pay attention to the neutral switch, but never had problems with it.
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HDF Community Team
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From: NC USA
The curcuit is only completed if I touch one ohm tester leads to the post at the top of the switch and the other to the long pin at the bottom of the switch regardless of whether the pin is pressed in or not.
That seems like a strange design to me, since transmission oil would most likely prevent a good connection.
Also, all three of the switches I have are HD ($30). I tested the last switch with the ohm meter before I installed it.
That seems like a strange design to me, since transmission oil would most likely prevent a good connection.
Also, all three of the switches I have are HD ($30). I tested the last switch with the ohm meter before I installed it.
True, oil is not a conductor. That's why ultra high amp/volt switches are encased in oil to prevent an explosion when the "switch is thrown." And high amp alternators on many aircraft, old buses and some military vehicles are actually oil cooled. So, oil doesn't inhibit the electrical flow.
Obviously, if the only continuity is between the post and pin, then the pin touches (or should) a raised spot on the shifter drum in the neutral position. One would think the entire tranny is grounded, but that would be the next thing to check. Then pull the switch and stick something like a nylon tie strap in the hole and go from 1st to second and back and try to feel for it first and if no luck - pull the tranny cover.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
On most stock HD shifter drums there is a recess that the neutral switch sets in. When the tranny goes in neutral there is a ridge that contacts the pin. There are a few exceptions to this rule, the V-Rod being one of them, and some after market transmisions. Hope this helps.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
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From: Middle of Kansas
You might want to check continuity between the trany and the battery negative to make sure the trany is indeed grounded. Sometimes paint and corrosion can mess with the ground. I am guessing that what you have is not a switch, but a contact, that should ground through the trany. Might need to run another ground wire from the frame to the transmission. My 2 cents.