Has anyone removed thier MM Fuel injection and replaced it with a carb?
I am wondering if there were differences in the heads that would prevent mounting a carb manifold. I also assume that the ign system would need replaced. Modding the fuel tank looks straight forward enough.

 

Lots of people have done this. Do some searching on the forums. I think some of the manufacturers even make exact parts for this conversion, like a petcock or something for the tank.

While I have not removed a MM EFI system (I'd just megasquirt it and be done with it), it is my understanding from reading teh 1ntr4aw3b, yo, that the heads have no differences that would prevent you from mounting a carb manifold. I also _think_ the ignition system is independant and won't need changing.

 

I wanted to do this also. Found out from someone that did and it was real pain. Guess I would rather just sell this unit and get a new motor.

 

Threads copied, ignition sytstem is fixed, needs replaced

If that junk M&M system gets in the way after removal, I collect junk as a hobby, my M&M has been problem free

Engine mount (with slot for choke) ……. 16315-99 $5.51
Choke cable ……. 29229-88B $8.80
Choke elbow ……. 27580-88 $2.18
Choke boot ……. 27582-88 $1.78
Intake manifold ……. 27613-99 $22.43
Manifold seals ……. 26995-86B $1.51 X 2
Seal ring (carb/manifold)…… 27002-89 $4.91
Ignition Harness ……. 32435-00 $104.43
Manifold sensor (MAP) ……. 32316-99 $26.95
Manifold sensor seal ……. 11291 $0.99
Retaining clip ……. 38723-99 $0.13
Retaining clip screw ……. 68042-99 $0.85
Stock Petcock- 61338-94D $53.00
Stock CV40 Carb- 27412-99D $168.00
MM EFI Tank Conversion from Pingel $40.00
Screamin' Eagle Ignition 32721-01A $157.02
Total Cost $600.00



The old fuel injection parts come off very easily. I removed all of the FI parts. The ignition module fits in the stock location once the ecm and it's mounting bracket are removed. I used the FI wiring harness to fab an ignition harness because the ignition harness for a 97 is obsolete from Harley. I had to add the 2 wires that go to the voes so their colors are the only ones that do not match the original wiring diagram. All of this work is very straight forward if you have the service and parts manual. The most difficult part of the conversion is modifying the fuel tank. First I removed the fuel pump and fuel filter. Next were the check valves. To remove the check valves I drilled them and used an easy out to remove them, then I kept drilling out the bung using progressively larger bits until I went as large as I could to allow the pingle petcock to fit.(purging or otherwise venting the fumes from the tank are a good idea before making heat or sparks). My 97 had steel fuel lines and brazed-in fittings inside the tank so out came the Dremel. Using patience and a lot of cutoff wheels I nibbled the fitting inside the tank down to about a half inch so I could use as much of the fuel in the tank as possible. I've been riding it for a couple

 

Thanks 1997Bagger, that is the kinda stuff I was looking for. I'd been going through the manual to see what I would need and trying to make sure the tach, cruise etc would all still be operational. The wiring harness was the only sticking point I was running into. (I wish I still had my pin crimp tool!)

 

If you carb does not have a choke installed I'm pretty sure you'll need the cable sealing cap 27582-88, the enrichener valve 27583-88 and the spring 27315-88A, you can use the map sensor and mounting hardware off of the M&M remove it and mount it to your intake

 

Please explain a little deeper, confused by this paragraph, the MM intake only has a temperature sensor, always open to new ideas but need details.

 

I'm going by what I'm being told by other posters in P.M'S and what I'm reading.

This is what I was told ( The only other connections you should have is the coil and the MAP sensor. Use the same MAP sensor that's on the MM EFI (it will go on top your intake manifold).

If that not a correct statement, please enlighten me is it a temp sensor then that I remove from the M&M and hook up to my new intake ???

Steve

 

There should be no need for a map sensor. It won't do anything on a carb bike. You need a carb manifold with the vaccuum spigot for VOES. The only reason I could see for using the MAP sensor is if you had a later manifold and need to plug the hole in the bottom.
I'm going to use a Dyna 2000i ign module and not the external module. I've managed to get a 96 Ultra carb that has the correct bellcranks for the cruise control.

 

Intake air temp sensor is held in with 2 screws on the MM intake, Moog pretty much hit it, map sensor from the Delphi is probaly used for a plug.

I'm sure all the EFI stuff is sheeeeeeet canned in the change over, Ebay listings confirm it