Help replacing push rods / lifters 94 evo? Fullerton, CA
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: SoCal
Help replacing push rods / lifters 94 evo? Fullerton, CA
OK...I have some pretty good clatter...bike has just around 30k...kinda guessing here but assuming it's lifters
I have a set of used adjustable push rods that I believe are sifton. I was given a set of new lifters by a friend.
I need help installing these things. I probably could do it myself, but I am not completely comfortable and would rather have the help of an expert.
I don't expect anyone's time for free, but I can't afford shop rates right now. It's looking like my bike is going to have to be my only transpo for a while and income is limited
I'm not asking for handouts, but education from an experienced, PRECISE wrench who isn't going to half-*** things. I have friends who work on their bikes all the time and it seems like every time they do something they have to do two things to follow up, and I don't want to be that guy.
Is this something I can just play by ear? I DO have the factory service manual but it seems a little vague in certain areas and also mentions a lifter block alignment tool...do I need that?
Im sure it's annoying having all these guys come on here not knowing WTF they're doing...I just don't want to be the guy who has to take my bike to a shop every time something's wrong, and I've learned to do quite a bit myself. Just not quite sure about this job
oh, also...like I said I THINK the push rods are sifton based on picture comparisons, but...I read that all one needs to do is measure the adjusting threads and then adjust them to .100 after seating?
Anyone near Fullerton that can help me with this?
I'll probably catch flak for this one. Oh well.
I have a set of used adjustable push rods that I believe are sifton. I was given a set of new lifters by a friend.
I need help installing these things. I probably could do it myself, but I am not completely comfortable and would rather have the help of an expert.
I don't expect anyone's time for free, but I can't afford shop rates right now. It's looking like my bike is going to have to be my only transpo for a while and income is limited
I'm not asking for handouts, but education from an experienced, PRECISE wrench who isn't going to half-*** things. I have friends who work on their bikes all the time and it seems like every time they do something they have to do two things to follow up, and I don't want to be that guy.
Is this something I can just play by ear? I DO have the factory service manual but it seems a little vague in certain areas and also mentions a lifter block alignment tool...do I need that?
Im sure it's annoying having all these guys come on here not knowing WTF they're doing...I just don't want to be the guy who has to take my bike to a shop every time something's wrong, and I've learned to do quite a bit myself. Just not quite sure about this job
oh, also...like I said I THINK the push rods are sifton based on picture comparisons, but...I read that all one needs to do is measure the adjusting threads and then adjust them to .100 after seating?
Anyone near Fullerton that can help me with this?
I'll probably catch flak for this one. Oh well.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
The only thing annoying here are the ones who already know everything and are quick to remind everyone that they do. And I'm sure that's liable to send some flak my way for me saying that...
You don't really need the alignment screws (they're nice and handy but not totally necessary) We'd need to know for sure whether the Siftons you have are "fully" adjustable. If they are, you can cut the old ones out and save a ton of time. Otherwise, removing the tappet guides is just like the book says. And when you get near that point, there's a lot of great guys more than qualified and totally willing to help on this forum.
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From: SoCal
Thanks for the response, man.
There are knowitalls on every forum, that's for sure. I've been involved in hard-boot snowboarding for about 15 years and the egos in that scene are AMAZING
i guess taking **** apart won't be an issue.
I'll snap a shot of the pushrods when I get home. I'm at the girl's house for the Hallmark Holiday.
there's a chance that the pushrods in there are already adjustable. The bike is NOT stock, but I didn't do any of the work, and the guy (s) who did weren't exactly up to speed on keeping records. SO...there's a chance of aftermarket pushrods in there, which would be nice.
the click / tick / clatter is almost definitely coming from the front cylinder. I'll get a mechanics scope from a friend and listen around first.
Anything else I'm gonna want to look at while i have this stuff apart?
There are knowitalls on every forum, that's for sure. I've been involved in hard-boot snowboarding for about 15 years and the egos in that scene are AMAZING
i guess taking **** apart won't be an issue.
I'll snap a shot of the pushrods when I get home. I'm at the girl's house for the Hallmark Holiday.
there's a chance that the pushrods in there are already adjustable. The bike is NOT stock, but I didn't do any of the work, and the guy (s) who did weren't exactly up to speed on keeping records. SO...there's a chance of aftermarket pushrods in there, which would be nice.
the click / tick / clatter is almost definitely coming from the front cylinder. I'll get a mechanics scope from a friend and listen around first.
Anything else I'm gonna want to look at while i have this stuff apart?
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 535
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From: Highspire Pa
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: SoCal
actually...****...that link just makes my head spin! Appreciate the post but it's gonna take some going over for me to understand
I feel stupid. seems like everyone else gets this ****.
I feel stupid. seems like everyone else gets this ****.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: deland,florida
its VERY easy,do one cylinder at a time,undo covers so you can see p/rods(we use laundry pins to hold up covers)rotate motor till both are all the way down,loosen pushrod until there in noticable up and down shake,then screw back down till all play is gone(but can still spin p/rod)then (this is were your going to have to know the treads per inch of the adjusters)lengthen p/rods as per TPI (on evo`s,its usually 4 turns),BEFORE MOVING TO NEXT P/ROD OR TURNING OVER MOTOR,WAIT TILL YOU CAN SPIN P/ROD WITH FINGERS,once you can,go to next p/rod,same thing,once you can spin that p/rod,go to next cylinder,no big deal
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: SoCal
everyone's focusing on the pushrods...
want to do the lifters, too.
ok...laugh all you want, but I still can't for the life of me figure out how to get the pushrod tubes apart
and, I need to replace all the gaskets and seals I'm sure
you seasoned vets need to remember what it's like to be completely unfamiliar with something
want to do the lifters, too.
ok...laugh all you want, but I still can't for the life of me figure out how to get the pushrod tubes apart
and, I need to replace all the gaskets and seals I'm sure
you seasoned vets need to remember what it's like to be completely unfamiliar with something
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Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: SoCal
again, I sound stupid, but...I was told you wedge a screwdriver in and push the center section DOWN?
I understand that adjusting the pushrod is adjusting the lifter, but what if a lifter is actually BAD. It needs to be replaced
plus there was the bulletin that said they should be replaced around 30k? FIgured I would just do it.
and then am I supposed to check the cam for wear? HAHHAHA it seems like there's always something!
I understand that adjusting the pushrod is adjusting the lifter, but what if a lifter is actually BAD. It needs to be replaced
plus there was the bulletin that said they should be replaced around 30k? FIgured I would just do it.
and then am I supposed to check the cam for wear? HAHHAHA it seems like there's always something!