Ignition Switch Removal
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,328
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From: Pacific Northwest
Ignition Switch Removal
Got a '95 FLHTC and am getting ready to change the fork oil. First time I've done this myself on the old girl. I've read the Service Manual and it seems straight forward enough. Any tips on ignition switch removal? or on this task in general?
Thanks
Thanks
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 2
From: central Mississippi
I just installed a new ignition switch on mine. To remove it, turn the switch to the accessories position, then turn the key counterclockwise, then place the blade of a small screwdriver against the small tab that is located under the switch. Depress the tab with the screwdriver and the switch will lift right out. Just don't force anything.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
Uh... You don't have to do any of that if you have air ride... fork oil change is a 15 minute job unless you do it by the book, then it's near half a day...
Last edited by t150vej; Mar 22, 2010 at 05:29 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,404
Likes: 2,605
From: NC USA
It depends on you're fixed for working conditions, how handy you are with your tools and how quick you are... I reckon. I'm getting old and slow myself 
Assuming you're referring to the oil seals, it's about half the time it'd take to get the front wheel and fender off, or less. But as most of us know, when stuff gets old, sometimes you run into things that really "eat your lunch" like corroded bolts, rusty lock rings, broken lockwashers and the list goes on...
Assuming you're referring to the oil seals, it's about half the time it'd take to get the front wheel and fender off, or less. But as most of us know, when stuff gets old, sometimes you run into things that really "eat your lunch" like corroded bolts, rusty lock rings, broken lockwashers and the list goes on...
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
T150vej is correct el mundo ! Guys would bring there baggers to the shop for the fork oil change and expect a big $ figure say 4 hrs + beer ! They would come back and Good God only 1 hour labor and fork oil + beer Bike front up /open drain plugs let the old fork oil out /remove the guts from the air valve (the end of the left handlebar grip ) Use a vacuum set up and suck the proper amount of fork oil say 8 oz up the individual fork tube This is getting confussing call me at 608 847 4240 Rufus should have told you how how to do this !!
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
A cheap Vacum pump will work fine. I have one I picked up a Harbor Frieght. It came with a bunch of plastic fittings and some hose that worked great. I use one of these http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P for the crush washers on the drain screws. It works so well you will be shocked.
Last edited by BB4xl; Mar 23, 2010 at 12:30 AM.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Pacific Northwest
Thanks guys. After I posted I got to thinking about the air assist and the vacuum pump I use for bleeding brakes. Using it to pull the fork oil back up into the forks was going to be my next question. Glad to hear I was actually on track with my thinking (sometimes I scare myself).
Thanks again for all the help. I'll have it done in about 30 minutes.
BTW: I'm going to drill the caps on my '06 and use the same method on them.
Thanks again for all the help. I'll have it done in about 30 minutes.
BTW: I'm going to drill the caps on my '06 and use the same method on them.
Last edited by Leftcoaster; Mar 23, 2010 at 09:34 AM.
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