Or maybe it's time to loose some wt ! Unless your 7 ft 8

 

Hey Ozzie,
You need a new clutch cable. BTDT.

 

I was going to change the cable, as far as I can tell it is original ..... probably why its getting harder.

 

Now I am going to show my ignorance

Please explain what you mean by "index"

 

I know it's not polite to answer a question with a question but I looked back to see you're running a Baker 6 speed and I've got a feeling you have the later clutch with splined input shaft?

If so, you're in the crowd of folks who couldn't possibly benefit from my tounge twister post. Seriously, I overlooked the 6 speed fact when I wrote that under your quotation, my mistake

 

LOL

The shaft that the clutch basket sits/ attache's to is tapered, with a key way to "lock" it in position. According to Bike Bandit, it is the 1984 and later style.

I am using the stock tranny case, with a Revtech 6-speed conversion. I have the early style clutch release lever, (over the top) where the clutch cable runs down the left side of the bike/engine.

 

Rivera Pro

 

OK, then you still have the original style clutch and the extra plate applies to you.

In my experience, down at the back of the rear cylinder where the clutch cable comes in contact with the jug, that's where the problems arise. Try to space the new clutch cable a bit further out, and lube the new cable with some grease shot down into it with a grease gun and a needle attachment. I'd have to look, but I think I'm on about my 3rd cable. This one is OEM and smoother than the Barnett I just replaced was when new. I keep a spare cheap-o in my saddlebag and a spare clutch finger thing in my tour pack. Everyone with our style clutch release should have a spare clutch finger thing with them. That will leave you on the side of the road.

 

Ok, once again I wasn't paying attention (was up past my crib time) and yes, Revtech does offer the gearset with the tapered shaft.

Next time you're into the primary for fluid change or whatever, you'll see there are 4, 1/4" bolts holding the aluminum "index" plate against the diaphragm spring. There are 12 holes in it. Each group of holes has a different length abutment on the back side which is identified by A B or C. They are only marked on one hole, but that corresponds in relation to the other holes which are aligned at 90, and 180 degrees to the marked hole(s). C is the longest abutment which is pulls the spring the shortest distant toward the hub and puts the least amount of pressure against the diaphragm spring when bolted to the hub. A is intermediate and B is the shortest and puts the most pressure against the spring.

So, when setting up/adjusting the diaphragm spring, it's important to have the center portion flat or concave in relation to the outer edge. By using a different hole group of the index plate, each of which is different thickness, allows that adjustment.

Barnett and Rivera, maybe others offer replacement assemblies, some for later splined clutches as well as the tapered hub that use coil springs like the old dry clutches and about every other combination of adjustments and configurations you could ever want. They are expensive!

Note the backside in the photo where the plate contacts the stands in the clutch hub. Also, if ever removed for adjustment, look at the raised portion at the red arrow and check there for wear. If that area is worn down, adjustment pressure is greatly compromised.

I'll let Hess explain what a clutch "finger" is. He has much more OJT on that

 

WOW , Thanks for that.

I was not aware of the indexing function. I have no idea what I am set at, I just "put" it back together

I will check the settings ASAP

As far as the "finger thing" I am assuming it is the lever the cable attaches to?

or is that the "thingamawatchacallit"