Clutch recommendations
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Cruiser
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When I "indexed" the spring with the new plates and discs, I was in "A" Then after some time, rather than index to "B" I was able to add an extra plate and go back to "C" so now I can go up to "A" then "B" before replacement...
Please explain what you mean by "index"
HDF Community Team
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From: NC USA
If so, you're in the crowd of folks who couldn't possibly benefit from my tounge twister post. Seriously, I overlooked the 6 speed fact when I wrote that under your quotation, my mistake
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Cruiser
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LOL
The shaft that the clutch basket sits/ attache's to is tapered, with a key way to "lock" it in position. According to Bike Bandit, it is the 1984 and later style.
I am using the stock tranny case, with a Revtech 6-speed conversion. I have the early style clutch release lever, (over the top) where the clutch cable runs down the left side of the bike/engine.
The shaft that the clutch basket sits/ attache's to is tapered, with a key way to "lock" it in position. According to Bike Bandit, it is the 1984 and later style.
I am using the stock tranny case, with a Revtech 6-speed conversion. I have the early style clutch release lever, (over the top) where the clutch cable runs down the left side of the bike/engine.
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From: NW AR
OK, then you still have the original style clutch and the extra plate applies to you.
In my experience, down at the back of the rear cylinder where the clutch cable comes in contact with the jug, that's where the problems arise. Try to space the new clutch cable a bit further out, and lube the new cable with some grease shot down into it with a grease gun and a needle attachment. I'd have to look, but I think I'm on about my 3rd cable. This one is OEM and smoother than the Barnett I just replaced was when new. I keep a spare cheap-o in my saddlebag and a spare clutch finger thing in my tour pack. Everyone with our style clutch release should have a spare clutch finger thing with them. That will leave you on the side of the road.
In my experience, down at the back of the rear cylinder where the clutch cable comes in contact with the jug, that's where the problems arise. Try to space the new clutch cable a bit further out, and lube the new cable with some grease shot down into it with a grease gun and a needle attachment. I'd have to look, but I think I'm on about my 3rd cable. This one is OEM and smoother than the Barnett I just replaced was when new. I keep a spare cheap-o in my saddlebag and a spare clutch finger thing in my tour pack. Everyone with our style clutch release should have a spare clutch finger thing with them. That will leave you on the side of the road.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: NC USA
Ok, once again I wasn't paying attention (was up past my crib time) and yes, Revtech does offer the gearset with the tapered shaft.
Next time you're into the primary for fluid change or whatever, you'll see there are 4, 1/4" bolts holding the aluminum "index" plate against the diaphragm spring. There are 12 holes in it. Each group of holes has a different length abutment on the back side which is identified by A B or C. They are only marked on one hole, but that corresponds in relation to the other holes which are aligned at 90, and 180 degrees to the marked hole(s). C is the longest abutment which is pulls the spring the shortest distant toward the hub and puts the least amount of pressure against the diaphragm spring when bolted to the hub. A is intermediate and B is the shortest and puts the most pressure against the spring.
So, when setting up/adjusting the diaphragm spring, it's important to have the center portion flat or concave in relation to the outer edge. By using a different hole group of the index plate, each of which is different thickness, allows that adjustment.
Barnett and Rivera, maybe others offer replacement assemblies, some for later splined clutches as well as the tapered hub that use coil springs like the old dry clutches and about every other combination of adjustments and configurations you could ever want. They are expensive!
Note the backside in the photo where the plate contacts the stands in the clutch hub. Also, if ever removed for adjustment, look at the raised portion at the red arrow and check there for wear. If that area is worn down, adjustment pressure is greatly compromised.
I'll let Hess explain what a clutch "finger" is. He has much more OJT on that
Next time you're into the primary for fluid change or whatever, you'll see there are 4, 1/4" bolts holding the aluminum "index" plate against the diaphragm spring. There are 12 holes in it. Each group of holes has a different length abutment on the back side which is identified by A B or C. They are only marked on one hole, but that corresponds in relation to the other holes which are aligned at 90, and 180 degrees to the marked hole(s). C is the longest abutment which is pulls the spring the shortest distant toward the hub and puts the least amount of pressure against the diaphragm spring when bolted to the hub. A is intermediate and B is the shortest and puts the most pressure against the spring.
So, when setting up/adjusting the diaphragm spring, it's important to have the center portion flat or concave in relation to the outer edge. By using a different hole group of the index plate, each of which is different thickness, allows that adjustment.
Barnett and Rivera, maybe others offer replacement assemblies, some for later splined clutches as well as the tapered hub that use coil springs like the old dry clutches and about every other combination of adjustments and configurations you could ever want. They are expensive!
Note the backside in the photo where the plate contacts the stands in the clutch hub. Also, if ever removed for adjustment, look at the raised portion at the red arrow and check there for wear. If that area is worn down, adjustment pressure is greatly compromised.
I'll let Hess explain what a clutch "finger" is. He has much more OJT on that
Last edited by t150vej; Apr 28, 2010 at 08:51 AM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
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From:
WOW , Thanks for that.
I was not aware of the indexing function. I have no idea what I am set at, I just "put" it back together
I will check the settings ASAP
As far as the "finger thing" I am assuming it is the lever the cable attaches to?
or is that the "thingamawatchacallit"
I was not aware of the indexing function. I have no idea what I am set at, I just "put" it back together
I will check the settings ASAP
As far as the "finger thing" I am assuming it is the lever the cable attaches to?
or is that the "thingamawatchacallit"