I am looking to replace the clutch on my '86 FLHTC I ride 2-up most of the time and I do tend to "get on it"
I adjusted it last summer to its max since it started to slip, and I have a trip planned late in August (Blue Ridge Parkway - approx 3000 mile trip for me) and I will replace it before then.

Since I already have 60k on the bike, and the motor has been rebuilt (screamin eagle running 10.5:1) I was looking for any other rider experiences/recommendations.

I had thought about just going stock, or even up to the Screamin Eagle clutch. Since there are about a dozen different options out there, I thought that I would ask the riders, and not just the glossy brochure!

Thanks in advance

 

I have an 87 Flhtc. I replaced mine with factory parts. The stock Clutch spring was discontinued and replaced by HD with a screaming SE spring. It was a SOB to hold in at lights. I put the stock one back on. I also ride 2 up most of the time . I go 320 and my old lady is around 140. Plus what ever is in saddle bags, I have no problems. I am running a slipin SE cam and module, Hiflow air cleaner and SE slip ons.You might want to check your throw out bearing while your at it. They have changed the Clutch adjustment plate design a few times. I have been running HD primary fluid, but I just put the last I had in. Not sure what I will run next change.

 

I recommend you check with Energy One.

"Energy One" makes great clutch kits that are reasonably priced and work well, we have the extra disk kit (with heavier spring) in my '90 Ultra that develops about 104hp/114torque, we ride 2 up all the time and our combined weight exceeds 500 pounds. That particular kit costs about $106.00. If you have any technical questions they will answer them.

http://www.energyoneclutches.com/home.php?cat=21

 

I still have my stock 1990 clutch, with my S&S 107, with a Barnett spring, plus a Clutchlite device to reduce lever effort. I don't believe there is any need to go to anything fancy or expensive, unless you have serious wear in the basket or sprocket teeth.

 

I agree, a good product and great folks to work with.

 

I seem to be saying this a lot but... The clutch for the 84-89 models is a totally different animal than the later 90-up clutches.

OEM is excellent but they've gone to Kevlar replacements and it's pricey. I run Alto Red Eagle discs which are like the originals and not as expensive. I've never run Kevlar discs so I can't say they're better, but the Alto discs are great. The steel plates seldom need replacing, but if it's slipped many times, the discs will "smudge" them and though that won't cause any release problems, it tends to let them slip when not worn much at all. Regardless of what you use for replacements, adjusting the diaphram spring correctly per the manual is critical to longevity. A spring that's setup with too much pressure will cause them to slip and fail quicker than normal.

The SE or heavy Barnett springs are a lot harder to hold at a light and I have run one but couldn't tell it helped with slippage at all. Revtech (aftermarket) still offers a primary fluid at it's excellent, but ATF works fine also. The "official" primary fluid that was OEM and the Revtech fluid are simply hydraulic fluid like you'd put in a farm tractor.

 

Energy One does make a clutch kit for the 84-89 Big twin:

1984-1989 Big-Twin. Includes 6 race proven material friction plates with tempered steel cores & 7 tempered steel drive plates. 25% wider than OEM clutch plates for a significant increase in clutch area. Stack height is pre-set for easy installation (run wet or dry). 25% WIDER THAN STOCK for maximum holding power.
Details SKU BT-9 Weight 2.00 lbs Price:$75.90

http://www.energyoneclutches.com/pro...&cat=21&page=1



on edit: here is a quote posted by an individual from Energy One:

Glad to hear everybody is happy with their clutch. We here at Energy One make all the plates for Rivera Primo, Belt Drives Ltd., Baker, Sputhe, some stuff for Bandit and Karata. If there is anything we can do to help, feel free to let us know

 

When I rebuilt my clutch, I put OEM parts back in with one extra plate (an old one), per the suggestion from the guys at the dealership. It's been fine. I only replaced the clutch because I was in there to fix an inner primary oil leak and had it all apart. The disks were right at the minimum spec, so I put new in.

I put Mobil 1 ATF in my primary this last time and it is MUCH better than what HD is selling these days. Between that and the Mobil SHC630 in my transmission, it shifts better than new.

 

Thanks for the input. I am running a 6 speed (Revtech 6 in stock box) and I have started noticing that the clutch appears to be getting heavier as the miles go up. I dont know how or why (perhaps I am just getting older )
Any way, basket etc were in good order 10k ago, so I am just looking at replacing the friction plates, and possibly the steel plates since i have had some slippage. I will check out the Energy One kit.

You are correct, it's not just the clutch, tranny and starter are all different. I guess moco had to use up all those left over Shovel parts!

 

Good post, pajoe.
That's a good price too! I don't remember whether the Alto discs were wider and the originals were tossed over 20 years ago so I have nothing to compare width to. I'd try the Energy Ones if I ever need another set including plates.

Yep, people been trying for years to get me to switch the input shaft for the splined version but I like the index feature of the clutch and have had no problems from the hub... And ozzie, save the "best" steel plate out of your old set. Hess runs one and mine has to have one after several thousand miles.

When I "indexed" the spring with the new plates and discs, I was in "A" Then after some time, rather than index to "B" I was able to add an extra plate and go back to "C" so now I can go up to "A" then "B" before replacement... if I live that long

And one more time, if you have a 90 or later, please disregard this post - it does not apply to your clutch.