Ignition System Recommendations
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
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From:
Well, I had a thought riding home this afternoon - check the timing. Somehow the timing was way off....
I had to advance it considerably, not sure how much exactly - had to do a static timing, way too much oil mist blowing out!
Runs like a greyhound now, back to her old self!
Need to pick up a clear timing hole cover to set it correctly, but for now she is golden
I had to advance it considerably, not sure how much exactly - had to do a static timing, way too much oil mist blowing out!
Runs like a greyhound now, back to her old self!
Need to pick up a clear timing hole cover to set it correctly, but for now she is golden
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 7
From: North Atlanta Area, GA
Well, I had a thought riding home this afternoon - check the timing. Somehow the timing was way off....
I had to advance it considerably, not sure how much exactly - had to do a static timing, way too much oil mist blowing out!
Runs like a greyhound now, back to her old self!
Need to pick up a clear timing hole cover to set it correctly, but for now she is golden
I had to advance it considerably, not sure how much exactly - had to do a static timing, way too much oil mist blowing out!
Runs like a greyhound now, back to her old self!
Need to pick up a clear timing hole cover to set it correctly, but for now she is golden
If you are still interested in an aftermarket ignition - I run a Daytona Twin Tec 1003 EV external module and a single fire coils, SE wires, and SE Platinum plugs on Bertha. I really like the Twin Tec. It has an adjustable rev limit in 100 RPM increments, single or dual fire modes, adjustable advance curves, and "multi-spark discharge" mode that fires the plugs multiple times at low RPMs to smooth out the idle and increase off-idle response. Don't know that MSD makes a ton of difference, though.
It also has other things you can tweak using their USB connector and their free software - like rear cylinder offset and the ability to program your own advance curves.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 737
Likes: 4
From: Scotland,UK
Well, I had a thought riding home this afternoon - check the timing. Somehow the timing was way off....
I had to advance it considerably, not sure how much exactly - had to do a static timing, way too much oil mist blowing out!
Runs like a greyhound now, back to her old self!
Need to pick up a clear timing hole cover to set it correctly, but for now she is golden
I had to advance it considerably, not sure how much exactly - had to do a static timing, way too much oil mist blowing out!
Runs like a greyhound now, back to her old self!
Need to pick up a clear timing hole cover to set it correctly, but for now she is golden
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From:
I run a Daytona Twin Tec 1003 EV external module and a single fire coils
I have been leaning to this set up. Always nice to hear from a rider.
I think I will wait till after the August trip, I guess this will be my Winter project.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
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From:
Still playing up!
AAAAAGGGGHHH
I thought I had the problem licked..... but no
I only had about 30 miles and it started acting up again. So, I double checked the timing, and got it right on factory spec. I checked the VOES, and it test fine. I cleaned the ground on the VOES. Put it all back together and it ran great ........ this time I got 40 miles..
before the symptoms came back again.
Does anyone know if the stock ignition system can be tested?
My other option is to find an Indy to work on it
Or
I can throw some more money at it and replace the entire ignition system.
I am 99% sure it is electrical because of the intermittent nature, and secondly, on my way home this afternoon, the bike played up, then corrected itself. I then had to stop and pick up some groceries, then it wouldn't start.
Plenty of fuel (could smell it) No spark, I do have electric comp release and I can usually tell when it tries to fire.
I turned of the ignition, waited 30 seconds, turned it back on and it started on the first crank.
I know I am going to have to spend $$ either way, I just really struggle with the notion of paying someone else to wrench on my bike. (I have never done it!)
I would appreciate any ideas.....
I thought I had the problem licked..... but no
I only had about 30 miles and it started acting up again. So, I double checked the timing, and got it right on factory spec. I checked the VOES, and it test fine. I cleaned the ground on the VOES. Put it all back together and it ran great ........ this time I got 40 miles..
before the symptoms came back again.
Does anyone know if the stock ignition system can be tested?
My other option is to find an Indy to work on it
Or
I can throw some more money at it and replace the entire ignition system.
I am 99% sure it is electrical because of the intermittent nature, and secondly, on my way home this afternoon, the bike played up, then corrected itself. I then had to stop and pick up some groceries, then it wouldn't start.
Plenty of fuel (could smell it) No spark, I do have electric comp release and I can usually tell when it tries to fire.
I turned of the ignition, waited 30 seconds, turned it back on and it started on the first crank.
I know I am going to have to spend $$ either way, I just really struggle with the notion of paying someone else to wrench on my bike. (I have never done it!)
I would appreciate any ideas.....
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,198
Likes: 3,087
From: NW AR
What's your problem? Intermittent no spark? Check the wire under the cone between the pickup and the frame. Pull on it and see if it doesn't come apart on you. The wire breaks inside the insulation from all the motor vibration. Go through the book diagnostics on the ignition system. They are very thorough.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,326
Likes: 3,614
From: Picayune, Ms.
You did not fix the problem. The problem is the bolt that holds the timing thing(rotor) on is loose and allowing it to turn on the penion shaft.
Open the nose cone, remove the ignition module and tighten up the bolt. Make sure the rotor is timed to the shaft. There is an index tab.
Open the nose cone, remove the ignition module and tighten up the bolt. Make sure the rotor is timed to the shaft. There is an index tab.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From:
You did not fix the problem. The problem is the bolt that holds the timing thing(rotor) on is loose and allowing it to turn on the penion shaft.
Open the nose cone, remove the ignition module and tighten up the bolt. Make sure the rotor is timed to the shaft. There is an index tab.
Open the nose cone, remove the ignition module and tighten up the bolt. Make sure the rotor is timed to the shaft. There is an index tab.
I will check that after work today......
I have checked the wires per Dr Hess' suggestion, the loose rotor makes a lot of sense.
Here's hoping.