Re-Torque Head, Gas Tank Removal
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Re-Torque Head, Gas Tank Removal
So, is it a bad Idea to Re-Torque the head Bolts? My motor has about 13k Miles since rebuilt, and from what I have been told, it was bored to 88', S&S Crank, and some other things that had been forgoten. This Raised another question, If was to replace the base gasket, could it be a different size? Is there a re-torque service interval that was forgotten about and if it I should re-tourqe the heads (leaky base gasket, head / Cylinder, and rear head bolt, all on the rear half of the engine).....
Also, is it possible to do this with the Tank on, or is that just some insane wishfull thinking - Not that pulling the tank off is a big deal. the tank is bigger than stock so I doubt its even possible.
???
Also, is it possible to do this with the Tank on, or is that just some insane wishfull thinking - Not that pulling the tank off is a big deal. the tank is bigger than stock so I doubt its even possible.
???
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,332
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From: Upstate New York
The service manual says NOT to do it. The Evo uses "stretch" studs, which are stressed during initial torquing of the cylinder heads during assembly. They function as "springs" to hold everything together.
Not only will you need to pull the gas tank, but the rocker boxes will need to be removed as well to reach the bolts on the right side of the motor. If you're leaking, I think you're going to have to bite the bullet and disassemble that cylinder and replace the gaskets.
Not only will you need to pull the gas tank, but the rocker boxes will need to be removed as well to reach the bolts on the right side of the motor. If you're leaking, I think you're going to have to bite the bullet and disassemble that cylinder and replace the gaskets.
Last edited by Uncle G.; Aug 8, 2010 at 02:30 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NW AR
Is your base gasket leaking? If it is, and you want to fix it, then tear it down and put a new one in. And a new head gasket, and new rings if you want to do it "right." I would re-use the existing head studs.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Joplin, Missouri
Agreed, never re-torque head bolts. However, regarding the leaky base gaskets, which gaskets work best? I've used both the paper and metal gaskets, and both eventually failed. Might have been from failing to allow the engine to warm up completely, but still, seems like alot of evos leak around the base gaskets.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Driftless Area
+1 on not re-torqueing bolts, if done correctly on install, no need to do so. torque readings are there for a reason, ie: if you ever want to take it apart again. I work on machines with temps to 600 degrees, I cuss and swear at the A-hole who re-torqued after the bolts got hot. You end up rounding off the bolts. Always the same thing- things that should be tight aren't, and things that don't need it are.
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I know that it was not allowed to warmup by the last owner, so that would make for cause and effect, for suck low milage.. the bike has NO Lack of Power, I would just rather take care of little problems before they become big ones, and get all of my parts lined up little by little.
I mentioned retorque because lots of cars call for that around 80K-100K Miles, and i have yet to get a real manual (mistrusting the Clymer) - thanks for the facts -
I mentioned retorque because lots of cars call for that around 80K-100K Miles, and i have yet to get a real manual (mistrusting the Clymer) - thanks for the facts -
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Driftless Area
not sure about cars re-torqueing bolts, I've 177000 on a 95 grand am and not touched the motor after rebuild at 100k. Once a motor is is rebuilt, there should be no reason to go back into it, if it was done properly. Assuming good parts were put in to begin with. my .02.
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Miami
I had my 1991 FXLR rebuilt. 23 years the Base Gaskets went in the Heat of South Florida. After the rebuild using James best Base Gaskets, about 5,500 miles it started weeping on the Rear Cylinder rear left head Bolt. I always warmed the engine up before riding so I know it's been rode correctly.
I've had Friends who's autos have had issues with Engine Head Bolts coming lose as well as Intake and Exhaust bolts.
I know Harley says no to Re-Torquing but Auto Dealerships address this issue every day. They just put a new one in and Re-Torque that Bolt. Nothing else is addressed.
So I got tired with the Weeping and thought I got Nothing to lose if I do this.
I pulled that rear head bolt off that 1991 EVO.
I used ACF-50 to lube, just the Head Bolt and it does not take much, best stuff in the World, it's like water it's so thin, then I slung out the excess. ACF-50 is made in the U.K., it's used to spray on Jets on Aircraft Carriers. Salt water is bad and this stuff kills the Rust and it last for 2 years, as long as you don't clean with something like S100 or Bike Bright. Protects Chrome too.
Then I was able to just use my fingers to screw it back down to the base.
Re-Torque according to Manual Spec. The Last Torque Value of a Quarter Turn, 90 Degrees is also 42 Foot Pounds of Torque.
Now after a couple months of riding I can attest """No More Weeping""".... Problem is Gone and I don't know if it's just me but it's got More Power.
If yours is weeping or leaking a little you have nothing to Lose, give it a try.
I've had Friends who's autos have had issues with Engine Head Bolts coming lose as well as Intake and Exhaust bolts.
I know Harley says no to Re-Torquing but Auto Dealerships address this issue every day. They just put a new one in and Re-Torque that Bolt. Nothing else is addressed.
So I got tired with the Weeping and thought I got Nothing to lose if I do this.
I pulled that rear head bolt off that 1991 EVO.
I used ACF-50 to lube, just the Head Bolt and it does not take much, best stuff in the World, it's like water it's so thin, then I slung out the excess. ACF-50 is made in the U.K., it's used to spray on Jets on Aircraft Carriers. Salt water is bad and this stuff kills the Rust and it last for 2 years, as long as you don't clean with something like S100 or Bike Bright. Protects Chrome too.
Then I was able to just use my fingers to screw it back down to the base.
Re-Torque according to Manual Spec. The Last Torque Value of a Quarter Turn, 90 Degrees is also 42 Foot Pounds of Torque.
Now after a couple months of riding I can attest """No More Weeping""".... Problem is Gone and I don't know if it's just me but it's got More Power.
If yours is weeping or leaking a little you have nothing to Lose, give it a try.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
You don't need to replace the rings if the bike has good compression and isn't smoking, it is an urban myth that they need replacing if disturbed...at 13K miles you most definitely do not need new rings,