[QUOTE]Opinions differ, I mentioned earlier that a proper built engine will handle it but my preference is not to because of my mechanical beleafs is the main reason. I currently could not replace it due to medically poor from my wife surviving breast cancer so other factors base on how many rpm's I want my engine to turn for extended periods of time.

Irongear, Do you have a theory on the origional topic. What gearing is optimal for torque based on 30 years experiance and what ratio is in your machines. Do you believe low gearing and the 6th gear good or bad. Is HD and automotive engineers theory of lowering cruise rpm's going in the wrong direction for the future.
Members here are very open to learning and your experiance can enlighten a group, itemizing members will only have them second guess themselves to post, not everyone was born with a wrench in their hand and try to learn from people like yourself.

 

I mentioned a Velocette earlier, which in the 1950-60s would just about manage 100mph on a good day, at max engine rpms of around 6,000 and with 34bhp. We reckoned back then that we could cruise at around 65-70mph on those bikes without causing them harm.

These days bike engines are built to far superior standards of engineering than those old Velos were 50 years ago. Any Harley should be able to cruise happily at around 65-70% of peak rpm all day every day and forever, without causing any harm, in other words at around 3,500rpm.

If you look at my graph at #6 you will see that represents road speeds few of us will actually use, largely because Harley has raised gearing to keep the noise police happy. By contrast my Dyna with a 21T compensator is travelling at 67mph at 3,500rpm, happy as it can be.

Higher engine speeds good, low engine speeds bad! These things have a lot of performance tied up in them which many owners can enjoy with just a few bucks spent lowering the gearing. Which takes us round full circle.

 

I read this entire thread and it sound's like from your stand point the 21T is the way to go. Baker offers the shorter chain with the 21T as the 22T,23T and the 24T uses the same stock chain.
My bike had heating issues before but since the head work was done it has ran very well and I guess it will handle this mod change just as well.

you spoke about engine noise and the reason Harley went to higher gearing to keep the sound down but my bike is already pretty loud.

Thanks for the advise, it was very good info.

 

I didnt know that this was true but another fourm member said the same thing today.
WOW, you can really learn a lot here.

 

As gearing goes. My jeep has 4:10's with 32" tires stock I want to go to 37" so I will go to 5:13's to make it closer to stock with larger tires. Higher the number slower the top speed is and higher RPM's are . Lower the number faster the top speed and lower the RPM's .

I think I layed it out right?

 

I used the expression 'noise police' meaning the authorities who regulate the noise made by new vehicles. For manufacturers like Harley to sell new bikes they have to meet set regulations (on all manner of things in addition to noise) and are very quiet when stock.

One of the ways Harley meet those regulations is by using very high gearing, so that at the road speeds the tests are measured, the bike meets the requirements. Most of us spend a lot of money tuning our bikes, when all that is needed is to reduce the gearing. Even on a bone stock bike that will give very cheap performance improvements.

So the first stage of tuning a new Harley should be to reduce gearing, thereby increasing torque IMHO. It is almost free! A 19% increase in torque on stock gearing costs a lot of money.

 

I've given the figures for my Dyna. My Electra Glide, which I bought new in 1990, was an International model and made to meet tighter noise regulations than US models of that time. My bike had a stock 61T rear wheel pulley and was geared for a theoretical top speed of about 160mph! I have since reduced it to stock US gearing, with a 70T, so it is now geared for around 140mph. That cost me a new belt and pulley, for a 15% increase in rear-wheel torque.

I confess I like to ride the Glide at higher speeds than my Dyna, so am less likely to change the gearing, although I would like more torque, especially when 2-up.

An alternative to reducing gearing is to fit a monster motor....

 

Here's another option ....

"Delkron's assembled 120" Complete Square Block engine (4.250" bore with 4.250" stroke) will fit the stock Harley-Davidson® Softail® (1999 & earlier) chassis as well as Harley-Davidson® DYNA™ (1998 & earlier), FXR and FLT with no chassis modification.
Our 120" Square Block ships fully assembled and has all the components of our long block, but has been finished off with a recipe that has yielded a modest 121 HP and 138 lbs. of torque at the rear wheel. This is a complete plug and play system including carb and ignition. Just unplug your old tired Evo and hook this fire breather up to your stock charging system and driveline! Then HANG ON!"

Photo below



R/
'Chop

 

Holy cow, 138 lbs TQ! Could fit in my Dyna!
I think I'd need a new clutch with that.
And start buying my shorts in the bulk pack.

 

Check a few manuals. Common misconception.
I am quoting directly from a 09 book that I have in front of me right now.
Gear ratio...
5th 1.18
6th 1.00

I will concede I have no interest in the touring bikes, so for all I know they may be different. Or they may not. I have never had the interest to find out.