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95 FLTHP Restoration Questions

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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #31  
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Welcome Defy and nice looking EVO by the way. If you buy yourself the suggested manual / manuals I think you would become quite acquainted with your bike and before you know it ( after pulling seat, tank, and exhast ) you will be willing to wrench on your own bike. For the amount of milage you have on the motor as per your sig, I would say your bike would probably be quite happy with a top end rebuild as the bottom ends are bullet proof but then again thats upto you. The base gaskets generally will leak and are often caused by the old type base gaskets, my last rebuild I used the James gaskets and stock head gaskets but then again I was in the same situation as you where the bike base gasket was leaking and motor speedo showed 139000 km so I got the bottom end rebuilt by a qualified harley mechanic and I did the rest of the build. Next time I do a rebuild on the top end I will buy the predrilled jugs and fitted pistons, we can get them here in Canada for about $500.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Mike T
It's a lot of work to keep it rolling but you probably already know that.
Not too much, really. Bertha's been very reliable - except for the recent episode with the regulator going out... put a new one H-D on for $100 and all is well.

I noticed in your sig you have Wiseco 10-1 pistons. I am thinking about going to those when I do a top-end job to fix a leaking base gasket on the front cylinder this winter. I hate oil leaks! I will install Cometic MLS gaskets and the Hayden Oil fix at that time as well.

How do you like the Wiseco pistons? Did you have your cylinders bored oversize, or did you just ball hone the cylinders? Anything to watch out for? Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by NorthGeorgiaHawg
Not too much, really. Bertha's been very reliable - except for the recent episode with the regulator going out... put a new one H-D on for $100 and all is well.

I noticed in your sig you have Wiseco 10-1 pistons. I am thinking about going to those when I do a top-end job to fix a leaking base gasket on the front cylinder this winter. I hate oil leaks! I will install Cometic MLS gaskets and the Hayden Oil fix at that time as well.

How do you like the Wiseco pistons? Did you have your cylinders bored oversize, or did you just ball hone the cylinders? Anything to watch out for? Thanks.
It really woke my motor up.I also installed a Crane cam while I was at it that is designed for 10 to 1 compression.It keeps the cranking pressure down. Some cams don't work well with high compression. The Wiseco pistons have a lot of relief cut into them for the valves so there's not much chance of bending one.I just honed the cylinders and went with the stock bore pistons.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Defy
Anyone know if a softail Evo motor will fit the FLH's??? I found out from my dealer today you can buy a whole new motor for about 3k (part # 19884-99) but the website says that it only fits softails??? I thought Evo motors were Evo motors? It sounds too good to be true i could pay 2200 plus labor so about 3k ish to reman my motor or 3k for a new one and then have 2 motors.....
Balanced vs. Unbalanced motors - don't think they are quite the same animals.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 11:39 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Vern1
Balanced vs. Unbalanced motors - don't think they are quite the same animals.
Only difference is the hole in the crankcase for the crank sensor.If you have EFI you have to get one set up for the crank sensor.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Mike T
Only difference is the hole in the crankcase for the crank sensor.If you have EFI you have to get one set up for the crank sensor.
Ah...thanks for the info.
Is the A/B motor a Twinkie only thing?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 04:58 PM
  #37  
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We'll I finally put the bike down for the winter last week. Now it's on the lift with it's whole rearend naked! As soon as my new saddle bag supports come in i will be take a mess of stuff to get powder coated black. I am still talking myself into doing just the top end (stop the leaks). But I just know once i get the top off i will want to keep on going.... then by the time i get done i could have one professionally built for 2k. We'll see, I think I might chance it and just do the top (hone/boring as needed of course) and see how much longer the bottom will hold out. I'll let ya'll know.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #38  
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I think i am going to tear apart the top tonight there is some bondo looking stuff at the base of one of the cylinders that has me scared. I think it was a poor attempt at stoping the base gasket from leaking but it could be JB Weld covering a crack in the cases. We'll see. If it's not a crack i am going to just going to re-bulid it all!!!! If it is a crack i am just going to buy a new motor and ebay this one for pieces.

I want to so SE heads and Wiseco 10:1 and I am just afraid that if i don't do the bottom end it will be the weakest link, so i guess i need to do it all!

Anyone got 150k on thier orginal bottom end? We'll see i will post some pics after I get things apart.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #39  
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Ok just compression tested it before i tear it apart and it sits at 140 exactly on both sides. Is that good?

If the compression is good i might just fix the leaks and let it run maybe get another 10-15k out of it before i do a full rebuild.

I know, I know by know i could have torn everything apart and rebuilt it like 10 times just humor me I have plenty of time this winter and I am going to research everything!!!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #40  
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When I picked up my bike a couple years back it had epoxy around the base gasket joints, probably the same on yours. 104 compression equal front to back is not bad.
 
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