the chrome on my 98 fxdl gear cover is peeling away and i am going to replace it. anything tricky? i have a couple of questions. i'm not a noob - but not an HD mechanic either.

looks like i have to remove the timing cover - just drill out the rivets and out new ones in upon installation?

anything else needed for parts other than two rivets, the new cover and the gasket? will i have to replace the camshaft oil seal or any of the bushings?

just want to line up and order the parts as this is just one of many things i will be doing while on vacation and trying to minimize trips to the dealer.

not going to change the ins bearing yet. thats next year - only have 12k on the motor right now.

anyway, any advice or guidance would be helpful.

thx - tin

 

I have not opened an engine that new but the older evo's had a spacer that went on the end of the vent. when you were re assembling the engine, the lifters would still be out & you could check for end play by putting a screw driver through that hole & trying to move the vent. It had to have around 0.030 of movement. Those spacers came in different thicknesses so you would try a few until you were within spec.
I hope I am still being accurate here. just confirm this issue before you put it back together!
Hatch.

 

Ok......
There are , of course, a number of things to look out for.
But, first things first.
You definitely do not need .030 end play on the breather, and using a screwdriver down the lifter hole is a very bad idea, especially when you are not totally familiar with things in that area. Just asking for trouble.
You do not need to (necessarily) remove the lifters anyhow.
The new gasket may be a different thickness to the old one, and if you are using a different cam cover, then this could cause variation in the breather and cam end play as well.
You do need to relieve the valve spring pressure (via the push-rods) from the cam.
So you either need to remove the top rocker covers, or cut the p/rods and install an "ezy-fit" style as a replacement.

Think about this.........

If you went to all the trouble of doing all this work just to replace the cam bearing(for example), I might think........... possibly not totally necessary, but a good move none the less, and certainly not time nor money wasted.

If you went to all the trouble of doing all this work just for a little chrome, and did not bother to do a little more, in order to change the cam bearing(and I have seen an engine completely destroyed at 8000 miles from a failure, and many more at slightly higher mileage)then I would definitely think......... WHAT A NUTTER!!!!!!!!!!

A stitch in time saves nine, and a poor man always pays twice.

 

very wise, thank you.

tin

 

I just changed the cam brg. on my 99, and as said if you are going to replace the cam cover I would go ahead and change the cam brg. I cut my old pushrods out with bolt cutters, and replaced them with HD Screaming Eagle quick install adjustables. The cam brg is only $10.00 from Harley. You are going to need the gaskets anyway, and they are not much money. The pushrods a $100.00. Rent a puller from one of the autoparts suppliers. Since you are putting on a new cover, you will probably need to install a seal, as I don't know if they come with one or not. I would guess the bushings would be in there. On the timing cover, instead of repacing the rivets, I tapped the holes with an 8-32 tap, and used short socket head cap screws.

 

You will need to either remove the rocker boxes so that you can remove the pushrods, or you can cut the stock pushrods with bolt cutters, and re assemble with ez install pushrods.

You also need a service manual.

 

thanks all.

tin

 

Jim, what a sensible post.

Now I did mean to mention, but must have forgot, but reading Jim's post brought it back to mind.....

The rivets that HD use on the little timing cover plate are BLIND end (meaning captive), so that the centre "anvil" shaft piece that remains after installation cannot vibrate loose and start chewing up delicate timing items.
Screw conversion is common, and I pretty much do it routinely.

 

I threw away the rivets and inner cover plate the first time I removed the timer cover. Underneath are two threaded studs which take 6-32 screws. No replacement rivets needed. I also added a domed timer cover, since the screws are located sideways, instead of up and down, and the OEM cover would sit sideways.

 

Without the inner plate, there can not be an effective water seal.
Big mistake.
The reason Jim mentioned 8/32 was because he was referring to modifying the inner plate(that size suits the rivet holes), so that it could be retained, so that water related breakdowns can hopefully be avoided(at least in that area).