1990 evo question
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
I read the quote not your post. You are OK sorry to scare you. It's a bitch when you are in a hurry and misread something!!
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 471
Likes: 9
From: Far NorCal
Thanks guys....love that manual info.
The bearing "year deal" is what I couldn't remember.
JohnnyC, you're not hi-jac'ing, good info.
Nice bike's BTW, dresser to chopper and in-betweens....evos look good in anything!
Nick, Where does a guy get that 101 HD perf evo book? Looks like a good book to have!
The bearing "year deal" is what I couldn't remember.
JohnnyC, you're not hi-jac'ing, good info.
Nice bike's BTW, dresser to chopper and in-betweens....evos look good in anything!
Nick, Where does a guy get that 101 HD perf evo book? Looks like a good book to have!
Last edited by Holster Maker; Dec 6, 2010 at 02:54 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,103
Likes: 12,648
From: South Carolina
Something not mentioned, this bike has the old design pulley/nut/spacer/lock setup.
In `94 the factory came out with an updated setup which consisted of a new pulley (thicker at the spline area) a shorter spacer, and a lockplate, to keep the nut from coming loose.
Although not a perfect solution, the new setup is much better than the old one, which used a single bolt threaded into the pulley in the hope that if the nut backed off it would stop when it contacted the head of the bolt (it did not work, the nut would just shear off the head of the bolt and continue to loosen).
In `94 the factory came out with an updated setup which consisted of a new pulley (thicker at the spline area) a shorter spacer, and a lockplate, to keep the nut from coming loose.
Although not a perfect solution, the new setup is much better than the old one, which used a single bolt threaded into the pulley in the hope that if the nut backed off it would stop when it contacted the head of the bolt (it did not work, the nut would just shear off the head of the bolt and continue to loosen).
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Dec 6, 2010 at 04:54 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
Something not mentioned, this bike has the old design pulley/nut/spacer/lock setup.
In `94 the factory came out with an updated setup which consisted of a new pulley (thicker at the spline area) a shorter spacer, and a lockplate, to keep the nut from coming loose.
Although not a perfect solution, the new setup is much better than the old one, which used a single bolt threaded into the pulley in the hope that if the nut backed off it would stop when it contacted the head of the bolt (it did not work, the nut would just shear off the head of the bolt and continue to loosen).
In `94 the factory came out with an updated setup which consisted of a new pulley (thicker at the spline area) a shorter spacer, and a lockplate, to keep the nut from coming loose.
Although not a perfect solution, the new setup is much better than the old one, which used a single bolt threaded into the pulley in the hope that if the nut backed off it would stop when it contacted the head of the bolt (it did not work, the nut would just shear off the head of the bolt and continue to loosen).
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 899
Likes: 10
That stock crankcase seal on the primary side is single lipped and meant to keep primary oil out of the motor but it does weep motor oil into the primary. If you're running a wet primary you're not apt to notice it, But with a dry primary (ie, an open belt drive) you will. But in either case if the oil starts getting into your rotor and stator you will begin to notice charging problems. There is an aftermarket double lipped seal (seals both ways) and that seems to be the fix. If you notice oil weeping out where your voltage regulator is plugged into the front of the case, you can silicone it up to stop the leak, but that's just a band aid, as it means your alternator is also getting gunked up . . .
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