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Thanks Jeff I will indeed check both shafts for wearing and sharp edges.
Thanks Stiggy you make a very good point with alignment as I did have the motor out last winter for a rebuild. Question is if I bolted the motor back in without taking the tranny out and I didn't disturb the front motor mounts wouldn't allignment be correct? After all the Evo tranny / motors ar directly bolted together.
Thanks Bigtone yes it is the 89 rubber mount as I stated to Stiggy I didn't disturb the tranny but did have motor out. I think I did use some type of sealer on the bolts that pass through the inner, may have been industrial strength pipe dope ( from work ), the bolts were still gooey when I pulled them out. It is definatley primary fluid, levels were good when I checked before disassembling. Although I was experimenting with differnt brands including the SE brand.
As for the big O-ring to be honest I can't say for positively sure if it was leaking.
Didn't realize the venting through the tranny vent though.
As for primary levels I generally put in a full litre\quart.
Thanks as usual John, John primary down to the inner is already removed. I think I will replace the bearings as if there is movement I wouldn't see it unless it was turning with motor running. I did notice on the primary cover some very brite scratches right around the drain plug area indicating something was hitting there, only thing I could see is ring gear, then again they may have been old marks.
As for the oil type, one day we were on the phone and you had mentioned an oil type to use because I had stated my clutch was grabbing engaging into first gear, that must have been the type.
Seeing as the motor was taken out last winter should the front and rear/ front tranny mounts be loosened off before tightened down the inner primary???
You stated that you removed the engine for rebuiding so the alignment of engine and trans is off. Unless you aligned them? As far as seals did you lubricate them prior to assembly? I also use a small bead of Ultra Grey silicone on the Oring. Also use silicone on the bolt heads that fasten the inner to engine and trans.
Guess I was posting while you posted, yes motor was out and I just fastened it back down because tranny wasn't disturbed. This must have been the root of all the problem leaks.
Yes I lubed up the seals.
Silicone, good tip.
What is involved with realligning?
engine needs to be loose as does the trans. Bolt the inner primary to both but only finger tight. Torque the trans to primary first, then torque engine to primary. Then torque engine to trans. That aligns them.
Rubber mount bikes are a little trickier than solid mounts, but the trans is bolted in thru the frame and swingarm, so it's not going anywhere. You need to support the weight of the engine because there will not be much holding it in at that point, it still needs to move while you tighten up the primary to engine bolts. Just do it like the above post says, but keep in mind that the tranny is not going to move, but the engine has to as you work your way forward tightening the primary bolts. Then tighten the engine to trans bolts last.
engine needs to be loose as does the trans. Bolt the inner primary to both but only finger tight. Torque the trans to primary first, then torque engine to primary. Then torque engine to trans. That aligns them.
Was wandering what does it take to change the tranny mainshaft bearing thats behind the pulley from the pulley side, that is after the pulley and tranny seal are removed?
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You really don't want to get into that, Just get a new seal, quad seal, and a transmission spacer (33334-85 I believe ) and go with that. You need some special tools to do a mainshaft bearing. Hope this helps.
Thanks John I will take your advice and change the mentioned parts and leave the bearing. Just curious are the tranny bearings usually in good shape and not needing changed?
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