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inner reassembly

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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #31  
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If you are talking about the main gear needle bearings the depth is.090" on both ends.
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by miacycles
If you are talking about the main gear needle bearings the depth is.090" on both ends.
Thanks John thats the one's.
Anyone happen to have a number off the countershaft bearing?
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 04:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by RidemyEVO
Thanks John thats the one's.
Anyone happen to have a number off the countershaft bearing?
If you're speaking of the side shaft end bearing in the case bore it's 8977

Drive it out from the inside and re-install from the outside ...
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by t150vej
If you're speaking of the side shaft end bearing in the case bore it's 8977

Drive it out from the inside and re-install from the outside ...
Does it realley matter if its knocked into the case or out from the case? It seems to move inward ok.
I found a cross reference 8977 is *** bk 2526.
Would I be asking too much for the numbers for the 2 needle bearings in each end of the 5th gear on the mainshaft? The one that has to be knocked into the tranny case from the big mainshaft bearing.
I need to get my bearings from a bearing supply.
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by RidemyEVO
Does it realley matter if its knocked into the case or out from the case? It seems to move inward ok.
I found a cross reference 8977 is *** bk 2526.
Would I be asking too much for the numbers for the 2 needle bearings in each end of the 5th gear on the mainshaft? The one that has to be knocked into the tranny case from the big mainshaft bearing.
I need to get my bearings from a bearing supply.
Well, it should be hard to drive either way so maybe some bearing mount or bearing retainer compound would be a good investment... bearing supply places carry the stuff. Typically you won't save much (if any) money over dealership retail prices, but you're in Canada so things may be way different there ...

5th gear main bearing (the big one): 8996
Needle bearing f/mainshaft 5th gear: 8904 (2 required)
 
Old Jan 25, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #36  
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Thanks for the numbers, just came in from tapping the counter shaft needle bearing inward, reason I went inward was because I had already moved it inward a 1/4 inch. I put a bit of the high heat propane the yellow bottle one and it came out smoothly although the flat end flew off as it exited.
 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #37  
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I finally found my service manual, while reading up up on installing the 2 5th gear bearings it does say .090 for the depth of the bearing, I'm a bit confused though because the carb side of the 5th gear bearing that is still in the drive is right on the outter edge and the primary side of the 5th gear bearing is deeper ( I'm thinking .090) but I've got to get my caliper back that I lent out to check. Are both ends .090 or just the primary end? And is the measurement from the outer lip of the hole to the top of the bearing or to the bottom of the bearing?
 
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:32 PM
  #38  
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Yeah, inner bearing is flush to the bore and outer should be .090 deep to accommodate the "wedding band" seal in that end of the bore. I'm still wondering how you plan on driving the inner primary bearing and seal race onto the mainshaft without destroying the trap door bearing...
 
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:46 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by t150vej
Yeah, inner bearing is flush to the bore and outer should be .090 deep to accommodate the "wedding band" seal in that end of the bore. I'm still wondering how you plan on driving the inner primary bearing and seal race onto the mainshaft without destroying the trap door bearing...
Thanks for the bearing info.
I'm actually more thinking my way through installing and extracting the 5th gear bearings.
As for the bearing race I'm going to put the race in the freezer and slide it on as far as it will go then I used a band saw to cut a piece of pipe probably a bit longer then bearing race, I will use the nut on the end of the shaft to push the pipe onto the race to the proper distance.
As for the bearing if your referring to the big mainshaft bearing I will be freezing it overnite and appying some he to the bearing cavity and it should push right on by hand. If this doesn't work I got some 4inch and 3 inch washers and large nut and bolt to help pull the bearing into the cavity ( frozen bearing of course ).
If the freezer doesn't make it cold enough I'll resort to dry ice.
 

Last edited by RidemyEVO; Jan 26, 2011 at 07:51 PM.
Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RidemyEVO
As for the bearing race I'm going to put the race in the freezer.... I will use the nut on the end of the shaft to push the pipe onto the race to the proper distance.


As for the bearing ...freezing it overnite and appying some he to the bearing cavity ...
I'll assume the first was a typo - you meant race in the toaster oven - to make it bigger?

OK, just checking, I see you have the right idea. Have fun, I'm back on the chain gang tomorrow but will look forward to your succes post when I get back
 



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