1996 Electra-Fuel injection
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 62
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
The items I needed to purchase are timing cup around $5, petcock around $60, Dyna2000P ignition module $175, small adapter harness $25, and VOES…don’t remember the cost. I also changed the throttle cables. The book calls out different part numbers between EFI and carb. I do not know if the EFI cables would have worked but changed mine because they were beginning to fray.
The tank was the most labor intensive but it only cost me the price of a petcock off of Ebay. If interested here are the details. I did use a lathe for some of this but you could get away without one.
Remove the induction module and then remove the original fuel lines from it. Next take a hack saw and saw off the original tank fittings from the 2 fuel lines. Fittings like the one with the red arrow is what you should be left with:
Put the fittings in a vise and using a punch and hammer, pound what’s left of the fuel line out of the fitting. You should now have 2 tank fittings ready for modification. The one for the back hole I first put in my lathe and shaved it down a little so as to not stick out of the tank so much. Next it was center drilled to fit a small piece of round stock and then the round stock was welded into the fitting. Next I faced the now welded end of the fitting to clean it up and then powder coated it black. It’s the one with the green arrow in the picture above.
The other fitting was then cut down a little so I could get the petcock into the tank as much as possible. This was not really necessary but is what I wanted. I center drilled it out large enough so I could run a ź npt tap into it. It’s the fitting in with the blue arrow in the picture above.
I used the following Pingel petcock:
Don’t be fooled by the ź npt or into thinking this particular petcock won’t flow gas. The fuel nipple is one size larger then the one on the carb and this petcock can flow more gas then my 89” Evo pulling a trailer up a long grade around full throttle ever needed. And it has an approximately ˝ gallon reserve.
Here’s a picture of the petcock in the fitting.
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On the tank side I drilled the bungs out and be careful here! The rear hole was done just enough to open the fuel line. Probably not necessary but I did it anyway. The front one was opened up enough to easily fit the petcock through it with clearance around the filter screening, but not enough to damage the threads. Lastly I took a battery powered Dremel tool and ground the 2 notches you can see in the front bung. The reason for this was to get as much gas out as possible. Again probably not necessary but what I wanted to do.
The fitting were installed using a white Loctite thread sealing/locking compound. The petcock was installed using white Teflon tape. The fuel injection plumbing was all removed (except for the one fuel line you see) and the sending unit remained.
I lived with that fuel injection for many miles but do not miss it. In my opinion the bike runs better with the carb.
Last edited by Charlie Bone; May 12, 2011 at 11:47 AM. Reason: spelling
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Congratulations to Charlie Bone for his pics and fine work. For those without his handy skills, Pingel make a gas tap and adapter, plus blanking plug, that enable an EFI tank to be converted to carb. Check their website. I have used their stuff to convert a recent 6 gallon tank.
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trigger1911
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
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Jan 7, 2009 12:27 PM
