Ignition switch jumper wire?
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Ignition switch jumper wire?
90 FLTC Tour Glide Classic with shark-nose, full dress. My ignition switch has these positions: Lock, Off, Ignition, Lights, Accy. It works the way it was when it came new, ie; the lights come on in either ignition or lights position. After reading up on it, that is not how it was originally intended to work, but was changed to this to meet safety laws so that you couldn't ride down the road without your lights on.
My bike has quite a few add-on marker lights that were done in the pre-LED era. After doing the math, the marker lights alone pull something around 10 amps from the battery and the headlights and factory lights pull even more. After studying the "Dreaded Click" thread, I can see where it would be a benefit to be able to start the engine without the lights being on, to have the most possible energy for the starter.
Someone had mentioned in that thread that they had re-wired the ignition switch so that the ignition position was just that, ignition only. Someone else chimmed in and said they did the same and it was a matter of cutting a jumper wire. I want to do this to my bike, but I went and looked around and I can't tell where this jumper wire might be hiding.
Can someone please help me figure out where it is and what I need to do to have the ignition position on the ignition switch be just ignition and not lights? I definately wont ride without my lights, but I would love to be able to start the engine without them on... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
My bike has quite a few add-on marker lights that were done in the pre-LED era. After doing the math, the marker lights alone pull something around 10 amps from the battery and the headlights and factory lights pull even more. After studying the "Dreaded Click" thread, I can see where it would be a benefit to be able to start the engine without the lights being on, to have the most possible energy for the starter.
Someone had mentioned in that thread that they had re-wired the ignition switch so that the ignition position was just that, ignition only. Someone else chimmed in and said they did the same and it was a matter of cutting a jumper wire. I want to do this to my bike, but I went and looked around and I can't tell where this jumper wire might be hiding.
Can someone please help me figure out where it is and what I need to do to have the ignition position on the ignition switch be just ignition and not lights? I definately wont ride without my lights, but I would love to be able to start the engine without them on... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
It's the green wire going between lights and ignition , without this crossover wire ignition only will work and when switched to lights the lights will then come on. I had to do a bit more wiring (I think ) because the orange wire that comes from dash was no longer connected to ignition meaning no nOrmal neutral light on.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
So where do I access this wire on the shark nose? Do I have to pull out a headlight(or both)? or is it accessable on one of the rectangular connectors plugged into the panel on the rear side of the fairing, behind the headlights? Thanks again for all your help!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,008
Likes: 464
on my 85 FXWG, it had a jumper wire right on the ignition switch. when the dash cover was removed it was obvious. a short little wire loop the jumped one terminal to the other.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
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From: Indian Head, PA
I pulled the headlights and I can see no circuit breakers at all. Plenty of wires, but no breakers and no jumper wires. So anyone know for sure where it is? Last time I tried to pull my gauge cluster cover, the speeding cable prevented me from getting it high enough to see anything in there...
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
I will poke around some more myself since no one seems to know for sure. One thing that would help a lot though would be if someone could tell me how to disconnect the speedometer cable so I can get the cover off the gauge cluster. Anyone?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Ok as I said before I'm not familar with this model although I did check the wiring diagrams in my clymer manual and can see that your bike has the same 4 15amp breakers as mine plus the 30amp main, there is definately a green cross over from ignition to lights breaker and I would think they would be in the front nose. I'm off to work but will take another looke tomorrow to see if there are picks for your breaker locations and cable hookup.