Inconsistent Clutch
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Inconsistent Clutch
I hope I can type this up so it makes sense. I have a 1996 Electra Glide Classic Injected. It's the 80" EVO, 39k mileage. Fluid levels are fine, I am leaking a drop or two of tranny fluid regulary but keep the fluid level topped off. I plan on chasing that demon this winter. I did have some issues earlier with this summer and had to replace the shifter spindle (the shaft that the shifter pedals connect to). When I changed the cable and tranny fluid there was some metal shavings, but I truly believe it was related to the hard shifting that was resolved with the shifter shaft.
I replaced my clutch cable a few weeks ago and have noticed some inconsistency in the play. First off, the clutch always works fine, but the amount of play varies sometimes in the lever. Most of the time I have the normal dime to nickel width play in the lever. Other time I have almost half an inch of play. Like I said, it always fully disengages when pulled in and shifts just fine no matter how much play, but you can really feel the difference. I've been playing close attention and there is no pattern to it, like only happening when shifting between the same gears, or the number of shifts, nor when the bike is cold/hot. I'll be riding along and it's normal, then I will have a lot of play for 2-5 shifts, then it's back to normal. It varies wildly, some rides it will never happen. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
I replaced my clutch cable a few weeks ago and have noticed some inconsistency in the play. First off, the clutch always works fine, but the amount of play varies sometimes in the lever. Most of the time I have the normal dime to nickel width play in the lever. Other time I have almost half an inch of play. Like I said, it always fully disengages when pulled in and shifts just fine no matter how much play, but you can really feel the difference. I've been playing close attention and there is no pattern to it, like only happening when shifting between the same gears, or the number of shifts, nor when the bike is cold/hot. I'll be riding along and it's normal, then I will have a lot of play for 2-5 shifts, then it's back to normal. It varies wildly, some rides it will never happen. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
Last edited by Bleachey; Sep 1, 2011 at 09:54 AM. Reason: g
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Did you go back to square one and mechanically adjust the clutch BEFORE adjusting the new cable?
This is a combination adjustment you need to address before you make another move.
Next thing I'd look at is where the cable is connected to the transmission. It's a ramping device that takes the cable's motion and transfers it to push the clutch rod that expands the clutch plates. Usually though the mechanism works or is completely failing at it's task. There have been reports of untrained individuals replacing their cable and not setting the ramp back as far as it goes before remounting and closing up this area of the tranny. Usually the ramp becomes stuck in the full outward position and doesn't get noticed as a problem until you button it up.
BUT, really this is a situation that either it's working, or it's not ... all the time. So having it right sometimes and wrong other times just doesn't sound right. Check the actual mounting points of the cable at the lever and the tranny this could be where it adds the "gap" of the cable being right, and then other times being wrong. Perhaps the cable is not seated as well as it should be.
BTW, somtimes old worn out cables start to break strands and will stretch before breaking but not a new one.
This is a combination adjustment you need to address before you make another move.
Next thing I'd look at is where the cable is connected to the transmission. It's a ramping device that takes the cable's motion and transfers it to push the clutch rod that expands the clutch plates. Usually though the mechanism works or is completely failing at it's task. There have been reports of untrained individuals replacing their cable and not setting the ramp back as far as it goes before remounting and closing up this area of the tranny. Usually the ramp becomes stuck in the full outward position and doesn't get noticed as a problem until you button it up.
BUT, really this is a situation that either it's working, or it's not ... all the time. So having it right sometimes and wrong other times just doesn't sound right. Check the actual mounting points of the cable at the lever and the tranny this could be where it adds the "gap" of the cable being right, and then other times being wrong. Perhaps the cable is not seated as well as it should be.
BTW, somtimes old worn out cables start to break strands and will stretch before breaking but not a new one.
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Thanks Johnny. As far as mechanically adjusting the clutch, are you referring to the screw adjustment behind the Derby cover, if so then yes. I will defintiely tear into the tranny where the cable attached, but I would like to rule out all other possibiities first as that required me taking exhaust loose and we spent about 2 hours removing parts when it only took about 15 min to actually do the cable itself.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 202
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My 91 FLHS did this. The clutch cable was getting caught when you turn handbars to right and would pull upper cable insert out of inner cable at adjuster screw in middle of clutch cable. This will make about a 1/2" or more difference in adjustment. When the upper cable slips back into place, after using a few times, the clutch cable is in adjustment again until the cable catches on something again. Mine was catching on a mount I have mounted on front of crash bar. If you move rubber boot off cable adjuster area when clutch does this, you will see what I am taking about. Cure is to have no obstruction to clutch cable when turning handbars.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
My 91 FLHS did this. The clutch cable was getting caught when you turn handbars to right and would pull upper cable insert out of inner cable at adjuster screw in middle of clutch cable. This will make about a 1/2" or more difference in adjustment. When the upper cable slips back into place, after using a few times, the clutch cable is in adjustment again until the cable catches on something again. Mine was catching on a mount I have mounted on front of crash bar. If you move rubber boot off cable adjuster area when clutch does this, you will see what I am taking about. Cure is to have no obstruction to clutch cable when turning handbars.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
I hope I can type this up so it makes sense. I have a 1996 Electra Glide Classic Injected. It's the 80" EVO, 39k mileage. Fluid levels are fine, I am leaking a drop or two of tranny fluid regulary but keep the fluid level topped off. I plan on chasing that demon this winter. I did have some issues earlier with this summer and had to replace the shifter spindle (the shaft that the shifter pedals connect to). When I changed the cable and tranny fluid there was some metal shavings, but I truly believe it was related to the hard shifting that was resolved with the shifter shaft.
I replaced my clutch cable a few weeks ago and have noticed some inconsistency in the play. First off, the clutch always works fine, but the amount of play varies sometimes in the lever. Most of the time I have the normal dime to nickel width play in the lever. Other time I have almost half an inch of play. Like I said, it always fully disengages when pulled in and shifts just fine no matter how much play, but you can really feel the difference. I've been playing close attention and there is no pattern to it, like only happening when shifting between the same gears, or the number of shifts, nor when the bike is cold/hot. I'll be riding along and it's normal, then I will have a lot of play for 2-5 shifts, then it's back to normal. It varies wildly, some rides it will never happen. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
I replaced my clutch cable a few weeks ago and have noticed some inconsistency in the play. First off, the clutch always works fine, but the amount of play varies sometimes in the lever. Most of the time I have the normal dime to nickel width play in the lever. Other time I have almost half an inch of play. Like I said, it always fully disengages when pulled in and shifts just fine no matter how much play, but you can really feel the difference. I've been playing close attention and there is no pattern to it, like only happening when shifting between the same gears, or the number of shifts, nor when the bike is cold/hot. I'll be riding along and it's normal, then I will have a lot of play for 2-5 shifts, then it's back to normal. It varies wildly, some rides it will never happen. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Thanks for all the advice. Of course since Busterman posted his advice I haven't been able to duplicate the problem to check the cable!!! Hopefully tomorrow or Monday I will make time to go to the local school parking lot to due some hard turns to try and test this theory. While I am quickly learning basic mechanics of a motorcycle and haven't read the manual sections on throwout bearings can comeone give me some direction on what to look for?
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
First, did you match up the cables to ensure they are close to the same length and have the same free length???
The "throw out bearing" is located under the right side tranny cover. Remove the cover and first check the ball and ramp assembly. Then you will notice a dime sized set of washers on a small shaft sticking out of the end of tranny shaft. It will slide right out if you grab it. Hold the shaft in one hand and spin the washers. They should spin freely, if not replace them. If the bearing is bad you may find pieces of it in the cover
, obviously remove them and drain the tranny fluid. The most common causes of a bad bearings is old age or not enough clearance causing the bearing to spinn more than it should. Hope this helps
The "throw out bearing" is located under the right side tranny cover. Remove the cover and first check the ball and ramp assembly. Then you will notice a dime sized set of washers on a small shaft sticking out of the end of tranny shaft. It will slide right out if you grab it. Hold the shaft in one hand and spin the washers. They should spin freely, if not replace them. If the bearing is bad you may find pieces of it in the cover
, obviously remove them and drain the tranny fluid. The most common causes of a bad bearings is old age or not enough clearance causing the bearing to spinn more than it should. Hope this helps
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I will check that out. Yes, I did verify the cables were the same length, great advice. I learned the hard way during a throttle cable replacement that the catalog #'s aren't always right. After replacing the cable and struggling for a considerable amount of time and at least a six pack my buddy and I were about ready to give up. The wife came out and said "it looks like you need a longer cable". We were sure we had the right cable and it had to be the routing through the fairing. After pulling the new cable out and holding it up to the old cable to convince her to leave us alone we came to the startling conclusion that the new cable was about an inch shorter. She still teases me about trying to do the job with an inch less than I should have........
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