Tracking down a new noise
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Yes if they are quick change push rods they will come out like that. Some are adjustable but not quick change.I hope they will then you can leave your rocker box on. Once you have your push rods out then you can remove your lifter blocks out and remove your cam cover. You should get a shop manual because you must put the cam in the right spot, there are marks on the cam gear to line it up to the crank this is a must do correct !!! I bought the Haynes 70 to 99 big twin number 2536 for $18.00 it has good illustration of the timing marks for the cam, crank and timed breather. It also gives step by step on how to check cam end play. that said it can be done by the do it yourself-er with a little care. The bearing if bad is a cheep fix as long as the cam is in good shape.Hope this helps.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 127
From: Middle of Kansas
I changed out the cam brg. in my 99 EVO last fall. I got the Jims Tools cam brg. puller and installer off of e-bay, and I had to cut my pushrods out with bolt cutters to install quick install ones. It only took me about a day, and I am slow when doing something I have not done before. Since you already have adjustable pushrods, it won't be very expensive. The brg. is about $8.00, and the gaskets are just a few dollars. You can resell the brg. tools. My old brg. looked like new, but it was the old INA caged brg., and you need to change it to a Torrington.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Canada
I changed out the cam brg. in my 99 EVO last fall. I got the Jims Tools cam brg. puller and installer off of e-bay, and I had to cut my pushrods out with bolt cutters to install quick install ones. It only took me about a day, and I am slow when doing something I have not done before. Since you already have adjustable pushrods, it won't be very expensive. The brg. is about $8.00, and the gaskets are just a few dollars. You can resell the brg. tools. My old brg. looked like new, but it was the old INA caged brg., and you need to change it to a Torrington.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Supposedly my bike has 133k miles on it, and also supposedly has had a cam upgrade as well. I can't imagine it surviving this long without the cam bearings being upgraded, especially if it has had a cam put in. For now I am going to focus on the lifters and see if perhaps one of them went bad.
Even though my pushrods are adjustable, I don't think they are quick change because it looks like I can only collapse them barely more than 1/2". But being that I am financially challenged and they appear straight, I will pull the tank and the rocker boxes again to save some money if the rear one wont collapse far enough to remove.
I have been looking at the prices of lifters online and researching back through old threads here about them. I realize the importance of going with quality lifters and I know I should probably change all 4 at once, but how horrible would it be to just change the bad one or both from that cylinder? At this point I am just trying to keep this thing running long enough to be able to have it payed down far enough that I am not upside down when I go to trade it in. I would love to have the coin to drop a reman or new bigger engine in it, but if I had that much change, I would be looking at a newer bike with less miles on it first...
Even though my pushrods are adjustable, I don't think they are quick change because it looks like I can only collapse them barely more than 1/2". But being that I am financially challenged and they appear straight, I will pull the tank and the rocker boxes again to save some money if the rear one wont collapse far enough to remove.
I have been looking at the prices of lifters online and researching back through old threads here about them. I realize the importance of going with quality lifters and I know I should probably change all 4 at once, but how horrible would it be to just change the bad one or both from that cylinder? At this point I am just trying to keep this thing running long enough to be able to have it payed down far enough that I am not upside down when I go to trade it in. I would love to have the coin to drop a reman or new bigger engine in it, but if I had that much change, I would be looking at a newer bike with less miles on it first...
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Just get the harley "B" lifters and replace the rear ones first. A lifter either works or it doesn't for the most part. When you take the lifter out try to move the roller back and forth. Then rotate it slightly and try to move it again, repeat this until you have turned it one full revolution. If there is any movement then you've found the bad roller. Whilw you are in there you might want to replace the cam bearing as it is cheap insurance. Hope this helps.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Well, I am now confused and frustrated. I finally got to tear into the lifters and they look perfect to me. I am going to go look super close as MIA suggested, but there is no play and both rear rollers roll smoothly. Maybe there is a tight spot or loose spot that I didn't find yet. Everything inside looks fine, no marks on the cam lobes, no shavings or dirt inside. The pushrods look perfect, too. I am confused... Both lifters were pumped up and everything...
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Just get the harley "B" lifters and replace the rear ones first. A lifter either works or it doesn't for the most part. When you take the lifter out try to move the roller back and forth. Then rotate it slightly and try to move it again, repeat this until you have turned it one full revolution. If there is any movement then you've found the bad roller. Whilw you are in there you might want to replace the cam bearing as it is cheap insurance. Hope this helps.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,324
Likes: 3,869
From: Upstate New York
One more thing to look at if you've had the top end apart. Check your exhaust system for a leak at the cylinder heads. This can make a noise like a loose valve or pushrod. I know this from experience. Drove me crazy until I thought to check the exhaust nuts. The new gaskets had taken a set and the nuts were loose.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
One more thing to look at if you've had the top end apart. Check your exhaust system for a leak at the cylinder heads. This can make a noise like a loose valve or pushrod. I know this from experience. Drove me crazy until I thought to check the exhaust nuts. The new gaskets had taken a set and the nuts were loose.
I believe it was a copper gasket and I didn't give it any thought that it would be a one time use seal because it was metal. So are you supposed to change them each time?
I hate hearing some kind of odd noise that keeps you on-guard for what the noise may lead to. It makes me ride uneasy.
Last edited by JohnnyC; Oct 12, 2011 at 10:01 PM.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
I just put a new exhaust on it and the nuts on the head studs are all tight. I used new gaskets and everything. Upon further reflection, the lifters don't look bad enough to me to explain the loud hammering noise I hear. Unless perhaps the tappet screen is clogged and not enough oil was flowing to the lifters...
I lifted up the rear of the tank and pulled the rocker box to get the pushrods out and everything in the rocker box looks fine, too. What else could it be? Could just a little play in the lifter's rollers cause such a racket?
I lifted up the rear of the tank and pulled the rocker box to get the pushrods out and everything in the rocker box looks fine, too. What else could it be? Could just a little play in the lifter's rollers cause such a racket?
Last edited by D1gger; Oct 12, 2011 at 10:21 PM.