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pjb, I don't remember off hand if they are notched or not. I've had the heads off a couple times in the past 26 years, but it's one of those things... If I had to just flat out guess, I'd say no.
Been running this cam for >10K miles, so I'd guess it was going to be OK.
I would guess that you got lucky, and have the later style notched pistons. Let us know the next time you're in there.
I often wondered if mine were notched or not. I tried to look into the spark plug hole with the piston up, but couldn't tell if they were notched. Turns out I couldn't see the notches in the piston tops because there wasn't any. I'm still not sure if the notched pistons would be visible looking into the spark plug hole with a good light. I'll try it with my new KB pistons and see if the notches are visible. I would think a bore scope would easily tell, but I don't have one.
The SE 3 cam from Harley has the same lift and duration as the Andrews 27 and might save you a few dollars. Andrews used to make that SE 3 for Harley. I called them when I was doing my motor and told him what I had and they said if I had the SE 3 to save my money and use that as it was basically the same thing.
I checked the 84-90 flt/fxr service manual and in several illustrations the pistons from 85-86 are notched, 85 having 2 and 86 and later one (Figure 3-20, page 3-22). Both are flat top. There is another warning on page 3-22 about engines with the V2 designation. It pertains to tapered piston pins to help seat retaining clips. Will this help in knowing if the pistons are notched or not. The V2 badge is the cover in the nosecone.
I checked the 84-90 flt/fxr service manual and in several illustrations the pistons from 85-86 are notched, 85 having 2 and 86 and later one (Figure 3-20, page 3-22). Both are flat top. There is another warning on page 3-22 about engines with the V2 designation. It pertains to tapered piston pins to help seat retaining clips. Will this help in knowing if the pistons are notched or not. The V2 badge is the cover in the nosecone.
You gotta be careful with service manuals, they tend to use generic pics rather than year specific ones and H-D Factory manuals do not concern themselves with aftermarket parts.
If you got an 86 or earlier its probably cheaper to pull the heads or buy a bore scope than take a risk and bend valves....it gets messy :-(
Why not just turn the motor over easy by hand with the plugs out and see if anything locks up?
That isn't how its done because things change with heat, there is a minimum allowable clearance between pistons and valves so you have to "Clay" the heads.
This involves removing the head, putting modelling clay on the pistons, replacing the head, turning it over, removing the head again and measuring the thickness of the clay where the valves met the head.
I hate to keep kicking this around, but I know I'm not wrong and the consequences of not being forewarned could be drastic to guys like stroker23.
the rest of the people who say "just go ahead" may be right "most" of the time. but there are known (to some) exceptions.
stroker23 - I agree with spanners39, find a bore scope and be certain. I'd even ride to a shop that had one and pull the plugs in the parking lot for a quick look.
talked to Andrews on the phone. they don't yet have an explanation why they discontinued the note. He speculated that maybe the older pistons weren't around anymore, so it wasn't neccesary. My older piston were running strong till I replaced them last year while doing other work, so they obviously are still out there.
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