Burning oil!!!!!!!!!!!

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Feb 18, 2012 | 07:44 AM

#31

miacycles

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 4,468

Likes: 12

From: Bluffton, South Carolina

It might just be the picture, is the guide in the rear head cracked??? As far as putting the seal on yes a properly sized socket will work, but the tools are really cheap so if you can get or borrow one that would be the way to go. How much oil was in each of the exhaust and intake ports when you took it apart. How much was in the pipes?? What kind of rings do you have, and what grit stone was used to de-glaze the cylinders??

Feb 18, 2012 | 09:29 AM

#32

Thread Starter

Cruiser

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 138

Likes: 5

From: Dublin, Ireland.

Unfortunately cannot get my hands on an inside micrometre yet, but still trying.

I cannot honestly say there was oil in the ports when I stripped her down, but there was a small pool in the intake manifold about the size of pool in rear head pic. The exhaust ports are more black gungy carbon rather than pool of oil.

Grit used for de-glaze? no idea it was over a year ago now in a machine shop.

Pistons rings are, as far as I can recall, just a set of Hastings cast rings. Did look into the idea of fitting other rings, but I think that most people agreed that unless I was going for a large power increase, there was not much point in fitting anything else.

Is it possible to get a 100% metal to metal seal between valves and seats? Or will there be a bit of leakdown regardless......

Feb 18, 2012 | 10:25 PM

#33

SportsterBob

Club Member

Joined: Feb 2008

Posts: 18,575

Likes: 4

From: Norfolk, VA

If the valve guides are worn they can cause a problem by wearing out the lip on the valve guide seals. Did you check for wear on the valve guides?

Feb 19, 2012 | 12:51 AM

#34

DOMAPOI

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Feb 2011

Posts: 3,335

Likes: 27

From: San Diego, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by tc

Is it possible to get a 100% metal to metal seal between valves and seats? Or will there be a bit of leakdown regardless......

Did you "lap" your valves into the seats after they were ground? On every car and bike I have had the pleasure of doing top end work on, I have always had to "lap" the valves after they came back from the shop to seat the valves to perfection. In the old days we used to have to do it by hand with a stick that had a suction cup on the end.

http://www.wayfair.com/Lisle-Valve-L...FRN3hwodel98Rg

Then they came out with tools that looked like a hand crank egg beater that had a suction cup on the end of the shaft.

http://www.amazon.com/Goodson-Mechan.../dp/B0009RGTM2

That will be the only way you can get almost perfect "metal to metal seal between valves and seats"

You know, one thing you have not mentioned yet is how many miles did you have on that top end when you started the top end rebuild back in 2010. How many miles was that on that top end? If it is really high mileage you may want to still consider a bore job while you have it apart again. Mainly because if was really high in mileage, your cylinders are probably shaped like this () instead of round. Which is why I was asking if you took the bore measurements yet. You will need to measure them in several places and from several angles to see if they are actually round or oval ().

Feb 20, 2012 | 05:01 PM

#35

Thread Starter

Cruiser

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 138

Likes: 5

From: Dublin, Ireland.

Again, thanks to ALL who replied to my question.

I phoned my machine shop today to ask him about de-glazing etc. He is aware of the fact that torque plates need to be used on Harley's, he uses something similar. He is also aware of the condom for fitting the oil seals, so I was quiet impressed as he would be doing more car engines and general machining than bikes.

So I have to assume valves and seals are ok and have decided to drop in the barrels, pistons and heads for measurement and checking and a possible re-bore and fit oversize rings.

As usual, what started out, as hopefully an inexpensive job, (new gasket set!!!!!!), is getting dearer and dearer, but I do want to try and sort it.

When finished will report findings.

Cheers.

Tony.

Mar 3, 2012 | 03:28 PM

#36

Thread Starter

Cruiser

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 138

Likes: 5

From: Dublin, Ireland.

Left all the parts into shop to-day and going to re-hone and fit new rings and valve stem seals.
Asked shop to check tolerances and if he is not happy will do a re-bore and go oversize on pistons and rings.

If it comes to that is it worth fitting high compression pistons? I was looking at KB piston set that are 9.6:1, anyone any info on these?

I have S&S carb, EV27 cam and Screamin Eagle ignition. But do not plan to do any head work.

Would it make much, if any, difference or would I be only putting extra stress on an old motor?

Cheers.

TC