charging problems
Banned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,098
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From: Location location.
Not if there's a short somewhere.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: WPB, FL
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
The battery checked out ok....
The output at the stator should be 19-26 at 1000 RPM. The output I am getting is only around 10. According to the manual, it could be the stator or could be the rotor. I wish I knew exactly which one was bad.
I am going to order the stator and cross my fingers the rotor is still ok. Both items were OEM Harley and were installed about four years ago. I just can't see the magnets coming loose just yet.
The output at the stator should be 19-26 at 1000 RPM. The output I am getting is only around 10. According to the manual, it could be the stator or could be the rotor. I wish I knew exactly which one was bad.
I am going to order the stator and cross my fingers the rotor is still ok. Both items were OEM Harley and were installed about four years ago. I just can't see the magnets coming loose just yet.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
98 Ultra charging problem too ...
Just read your posts. Funny, I have EXACTLY the same problem on my '98! I bought the bike about 2-1/2 years ago with ~33K on it, just turned 53K today.
Short version: Looked at the fairing voltmeter this morning (more than halfway to work), and it read 10V!!
On the way back I stopped by the dealer to get a new battery (2005) and a new voltage regulator. Battery ran out completely just as I pulled into the parking space! Put the new battery in at the dealer, came home & Did the static stator tests (no short, good resistance) then replaced the regulator - an upgraded part from original, I think. Cranked it up - DAMN! Dash meter at ~11V or so ... Next checked the AC, only about 1A per 100RPM (10A at 1000, 19A at 2000, etc.) Crap.
Longer version: Over the past couple of weeks or so I noticed the voltmeter dead nuts on at 12V. Before that there seems to have been quite a bit of fluctuation in the readings: drops when brake lights on (I have the light-em-up rear TourPak lights), up-and-down with the turn signals, stuff like that. In the bad old days, at least with my 67 Mustang Fastback, this was a dead giveaway for the regulator.
So now I know it's not the regulator OR the battery, my wallet is now about $400 lighter, and I'm heading into the rotor & stator.
Any ideas out there about which of these to replace? Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? And do I need this "ROTOR REMOVER/INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE" ?? OEM or after-market parts?
I'm learning WAY more than I wanted to about repairing this thing, but at $4.50/gal and 40+ mpg I'm thinking it's worth it. Maybe.
Short version: Looked at the fairing voltmeter this morning (more than halfway to work), and it read 10V!!
On the way back I stopped by the dealer to get a new battery (2005) and a new voltage regulator. Battery ran out completely just as I pulled into the parking space! Put the new battery in at the dealer, came home & Did the static stator tests (no short, good resistance) then replaced the regulator - an upgraded part from original, I think. Cranked it up - DAMN! Dash meter at ~11V or so ... Next checked the AC, only about 1A per 100RPM (10A at 1000, 19A at 2000, etc.) Crap.Longer version: Over the past couple of weeks or so I noticed the voltmeter dead nuts on at 12V. Before that there seems to have been quite a bit of fluctuation in the readings: drops when brake lights on (I have the light-em-up rear TourPak lights), up-and-down with the turn signals, stuff like that. In the bad old days, at least with my 67 Mustang Fastback, this was a dead giveaway for the regulator.
So now I know it's not the regulator OR the battery, my wallet is now about $400 lighter, and I'm heading into the rotor & stator.
Any ideas out there about which of these to replace? Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? And do I need this "ROTOR REMOVER/INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE" ?? OEM or after-market parts?
I'm learning WAY more than I wanted to about repairing this thing, but at $4.50/gal and 40+ mpg I'm thinking it's worth it. Maybe.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
Just read your posts. Funny, I have EXACTLY the same problem on my '98! I bought the bike about 2-1/2 years ago with ~33K on it, just turned 53K today.
Short version: Looked at the fairing voltmeter this morning (more than halfway to work), and it read 10V!! On the way back I stopped by the dealer to get a new battery (2005) and a new voltage regulator. Battery ran out completely just as I pulled into the parking space! Put the new battery in at the dealer, came home & Did the static stator tests (no short, good resistance) then replaced the regulator - an upgraded part from original, I think. Cranked it up - DAMN! Dash meter at ~11V or so ... Next checked the AC, only about 1A per 100RPM (10A at 1000, 19A at 2000, etc.) Crap.
Longer version: Over the past couple of weeks or so I noticed the voltmeter dead nuts on at 12V. Before that there seems to have been quite a bit of fluctuation in the readings: drops when brake lights on (I have the light-em-up rear TourPak lights), up-and-down with the turn signals, stuff like that. In the bad old days, at least with my 67 Mustang Fastback, this was a dead giveaway for the regulator.
So now I know it's not the regulator OR the battery, my wallet is now about $400 lighter, and I'm heading into the rotor & stator.
Any ideas out there about which of these to replace? Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? And do I need this "ROTOR REMOVER/INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE" ?? OEM or after-market parts?
I'm learning WAY more than I wanted to about repairing this thing, but at $4.50/gal and 40+ mpg I'm thinking it's worth it. Maybe.
Short version: Looked at the fairing voltmeter this morning (more than halfway to work), and it read 10V!!
On the way back I stopped by the dealer to get a new battery (2005) and a new voltage regulator. Battery ran out completely just as I pulled into the parking space! Put the new battery in at the dealer, came home & Did the static stator tests (no short, good resistance) then replaced the regulator - an upgraded part from original, I think. Cranked it up - DAMN! Dash meter at ~11V or so ... Next checked the AC, only about 1A per 100RPM (10A at 1000, 19A at 2000, etc.) Crap.Longer version: Over the past couple of weeks or so I noticed the voltmeter dead nuts on at 12V. Before that there seems to have been quite a bit of fluctuation in the readings: drops when brake lights on (I have the light-em-up rear TourPak lights), up-and-down with the turn signals, stuff like that. In the bad old days, at least with my 67 Mustang Fastback, this was a dead giveaway for the regulator.
So now I know it's not the regulator OR the battery, my wallet is now about $400 lighter, and I'm heading into the rotor & stator.
Any ideas out there about which of these to replace? Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? And do I need this "ROTOR REMOVER/INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE" ?? OEM or after-market parts?
I'm learning WAY more than I wanted to about repairing this thing, but at $4.50/gal and 40+ mpg I'm thinking it's worth it. Maybe.
Always use new stator screws and there are four of them. You don't need the rotor removal tool.....a steeing wheel puller works just fine with spacers. You also don't need the shaft protector either.....duct tape works just fine. You also don't need the primary lock....nearly anything will lock the primary.
I would go with OEM from Harley or Cycle Electric.
For mine, I have a new stator plus the screws ready for installation. I did not get the rotor just yet....as I am assuming the rotor is fine.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
Got mine all torn apart and I was right. The primary fluid smelled terrible! The stator was partially burnt in certain places. I was going to install the new stator, but the plastic holddown was cracked in the middle. Now, I've got to pickup one of those now.
I've just never seen a stator that was partial burnt and would still work once the RPM was around 2000. From my experience, they either charge or don't charge....so this was a first for me.
I've just never seen a stator that was partial burnt and would still work once the RPM was around 2000. From my experience, they either charge or don't charge....so this was a first for me.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
I just wanted to add.....
I was having radio/intercom problems. The radio would not shutoff if you spoke into the intercom. Same goes with the passenger including the CB. Basically, if you wanted to speak to someone, you had to speak over the radio. It was annoying!
Once I replaced the stator, all was good and the radio/intercom functions correctly.
Anyways, if you have radio/intercom similiar problems I was having.....suspect the stator is going bad.
I was having radio/intercom problems. The radio would not shutoff if you spoke into the intercom. Same goes with the passenger including the CB. Basically, if you wanted to speak to someone, you had to speak over the radio. It was annoying!
Once I replaced the stator, all was good and the radio/intercom functions correctly.
Anyways, if you have radio/intercom similiar problems I was having.....suspect the stator is going bad.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 43
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Got it all apart, stator doesn't have that burned smell, but all the magnets in the rotor are bunched up together, with big holes between some of them. Damn!
I've already put the new OEM regulator in. Should I stick with OEM, or can I go with aftermarket stator and rotor? Will try to upload photo if I can figure out how with iPad / iPhone.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...8&l=649effed4f
I've already put the new OEM regulator in. Should I stick with OEM, or can I go with aftermarket stator and rotor? Will try to upload photo if I can figure out how with iPad / iPhone.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...8&l=649effed4f
Last edited by dhbmedic; Mar 20, 2012 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Added URL of photo.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Northern Ontario
Dhbmetic you just have to make sure what ever you use the amps have to match. I'm not sure how many amp system you have now but I put a 38 amp cyclelectric and never looked back.