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1995 wideglide ,ape hanger wireing help please!

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Old May 30, 2012 | 08:55 PM
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Default 1995 wideglide ,ape hanger wireing help please!

i have the bars and switches installedm and the wire harness hanging down, my question is what do i do know? does the wire harness do through the frame all the way to the back under the seat,do i unplug it back their and pull the harness all the way up front and install the pins from the new longer harness? i have the tank and seat off the bike, i dont want to solder,what is the best way to get that harness out of the bike? thank you Will
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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I pulled the harness, as far as I could, out of the frame.. Cut, soldered and heat shrunk.. If you dont want to solder, hope you've got enough wire to go to the connector.. IMO, anything less than solder or complete replacement is a hack job waiting to fail.. Worst part, in a wet environment corrosion will build in the joints and cause phantom issues that are tough to find.. By the way, only use adhesive lined shrink tube..

Sorry, sounds like thats not what you wanted to hear. But, I've been there, done that and learned from it... What apes did you get?? I love my 18's!!
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by HGM
I pulled the harness, as far as I could, out of the frame.. Cut, soldered and heat shrunk.. If you dont want to solder, hope you've got enough wire to go to the connector.. IMO, anything less than solder or complete replacement is a hack job waiting to fail.. Worst part, in a wet environment corrosion will build in the joints and cause phantom issues that are tough to find.. By the way, only use adhesive lined shrink tube..

Sorry, sounds like thats not what you wanted to hear. But, I've been there, done that and learned from it... What apes did you get?? I love my 18's!!
i got 18inch carlini`s with 4inch risers and they look bad ***, thank`s for the reply, i wanted to do better than solder and go to the connector,
are you saying the connector is way in the back? and i should just pull out the wire harness from the front by the headstock enough to cut and solder the new wires back on and shove the harness back down the frame tube? thank`s
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by solowrider
i got 18inch carlini`s with 4inch risers and they look bad ***, thank`s for the reply, i wanted to do better than solder and go to the connector,
are you saying the connector is way in the back? and i should just pull out the wire harness from the front by the headstock enough to cut and solder the new wires back on and shove the harness back down the frame tube? thank`s

Thats the way I did mine.. I had a hard time tracking the connector down. The HD manual isnt very clear on what's what... I'm almost positive that its the large white connectors under the seat. The problem I had, they didnt move when I tugged on them from the neck so I couldnt tell.. I really didnt feel like stripping the whole harness, although it would be the better option if your wires will reach.. I'd like to hear what you find on the connectors... I'm very confident in the solder option though..
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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thank`s for the help, anyone else have anything to add? Will
 
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 05:45 AM
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I thought they plugged in under the tank but maybe not. A shop manual will show that. With that being said I have always carfully marked my wires and added in wire by soldering and heat shrinking like mentioned above. It is certainly a major pain in the butt however it is worth it. It is not hard to do just takes some time.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 10:26 PM
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Thank`s for the help men! i got the wires all solderd up and working fine today.
now i have to order the right size cables.
HOW ARE THE MAGNUM CABELS?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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Done this twice. HGM is dead on about soldering the connections, then shrink wrapping them.
My advice is to lift the bike, remove the rear wheel, pop the cover off from inside the rear fender, pull the harness bundle out, and then push it in WHILE you pull the end out of the head tube area. About 12-14" should come out. It has to come all the way out to reach the final plugs. There are 3 of them in there.
With the rear wheel off it will be easy to pull the slack back in after you're done wiring. But I won't tell you that it's easy to get the slack loop back in to place under the seat. I figured out a bit of a trick using coat hanger wire, but wouldn't recommend it....
 
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 11:00 PM
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thanks shwang i got then done today, i was able to pull the harness out enough without taking the wheel off. regard`s Will
 

Last edited by Bigwillie; Jun 2, 2012 at 11:03 PM.
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