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EFI Tuning and Temp

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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 01:56 PM
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Default EFI Tuning and Temp

Thanks to all of the information I've abosrbed on this site I think I am starting down the path to becoming a gearhead and true shade tree mechanic.

I've been paying a lot closer attention to the performance of my bike lately and recognize a degredation in power when the temperature goes up outside. I know this is to be expected, and it has been an especially hot summer. Last night I decided to go for a ride right as the sun was going down and the ol girl was running beautifully, pulling hard and really responding to every little caress of the throttle. It was quite a difference from my Sunday ride in the 95+ heat. My question is should I look into having the bike tuned, or this just the nuances of an air-cooled machine.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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Look at your spark plugs. The color and condition will tell you everything you need to know. My bike doesn't really pull all that great in the heat either. I take it easy on those super hot days.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 02:25 PM
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K. Lots of answers for this one.
Are you planning any mods such as cams,big bore etc.
If not then don't bother.
Cooler air is more oxygen dense so the bike runs better.
The dealer download does nothing but raise rev limit and advances timing in the upper rpms. But it's EPA approved and on that fact alone means it's a waste. No added power.
Now if you are planning to mod the engine there are many good tuning options out there. My mod list is pretty long and I use a pc-v. Last weekend I got 50mpg. Bike has 107hp/115tq.
You will read much about how the twin cams run hot and you gotta add fuel in the fuel maps or else the motor won't last as long. Tell that to the guys who have over 100000 miles on their 88s running stock maps.
I think it's hype to sell you something you don't need. And because the older guys can't comprehend fuel injection and their old evo's didn't run this hot they figure the new bikes are doomed right from the factory.
A bro I ride with had an 06 dyna lo with an 88. He has v&h divorced duals and a hi flow breather.
When he bought the bike he knew nothing about the extra heat and needing tuning to cool head temps etc,he put an oil cooler on it and rides it hard. It now has almost 90000 miles on it. The extra heat doesn't seem to be a big deal on his bike nor is it running lean. It's because fuel injected bikes have oxygen sensors. These sensors detect the exhaust and if they sense a lean condition they add fuel til it's corrected. All fuel injected bikes work on this manner,so adding a breather and pipes doesn't mean you need a tuning device. The bike will still run within it's designed parameters.
You can buy whatever you like however buyer beware.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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I think it's hype to sell you something you don't need. And because the older guys can't comprehend fuel injection

It's because fuel injected bikes have oxygen sensors. These sensors detect the exhaust and if they sense a lean condition they add fuel til it's corrected. All fuel injected bikes work on this manner
Old dudes can't comprehend EFI is a wide cast net, some old dudes have enough EFI knowledge to know that some younger than old dudes don't understand M&M EFI as lacking O2 sensors so alot of info provided means "doodily squat" learned these words from Outlaw Jose Wales renegade Indian.

Have to agree that heat is Ok to an extent, the edge of meltdown is peak power and efficiency, slip past that and 42 cents a pound. The stock twinkee is example of the hot dog griller with it's 16-1 AFR range but they use this heat to finish cleaning up unburnt gases and has barbequed men of young and old inner thighs, has twinkee heat worked, absolutly. Have they made millions off tuners to shed this heat, absolutly. Do top notch dyno tuners tune engines at 16-1 AFR idle and midrange/cruise to create this much heat, not a chance.

Ok Bleachy, going to try my best on the heat/runability deal, from street tuning I know that AFR's will enrichen when temperatures increase and possibly causing an engine to get a little more lazy from being slightly richer and cylinder heat is decreased during combustion so back to heat is good. I'm going to have to go with Schredin Rubber on his leave it alone theory with reasoning of I don"t think the M&M is precision enough to split AFR's to get the best of all situations, you will drive yourself crazy and spend alot of money with dyno tuners to reach your quest and might never get it, if it runs good and no detonation present in these hot conditions, ride it until you get the I gotta go faster bug and install a carb with heavy engine mods. Until then, throttle on and absorb info like a sponge, it will be useful in the future, quite sure that someone that lost less brain cells while young can break down your topic in a science form but I'm hurting myself right now with concentration so let her eat my friend
 

Last edited by 1997bagger; Jul 17, 2012 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 07:44 AM
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Thanks to all. I did change out my plugs a couple months ago and they were a nice light brown color like I've been led to believe is optimal. I guess I'll just have to treat her like the old lady.....when she's hot and not in the mood to be run hard just take it easy, but when she's in the mood let er rip.
 
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