got everything running like a top, and i'm getting into my grand plans for my 80" evo

my cam choice is still up in the air (and so is headwork, since I'd rather do this right, once). I'm looking for a fat torque curve that isnt going to run out of steam @ 4500ish rpm (been looking at a LOT of ev27 dyno sheets, and they all seem to make GREAT power down low, but fall off fast after 4500rpm). for reference, i rode my buddies Dyna last year (80" evo running a SE54, that made 107hp at the rear wheel in a shootout)....power came on a little slow, but dear god it pulled like a raped ape. I accept the fact that my RKC wont do QUITE the holeshot his will, but I wanna get close


i'm not as concerned with timing (im realistic...it's october...i've got a month of riding time left in Boston, at best....unless we have an unusually mild winter (like last year)...i can afford for the bike to be down for a bit to send the heads out (or would it be more realistic to get a/m heads, S&S, SE, etc)


I *think* an EV46 will do what I want it to do, as long as I push the compression a bit (9.5:1)...but that brings up another question. my buddy (been wrenching on HD's for almost 30 years) made 107rwhp with decked (0.040") stock heads with oversized valves and heavy springs...my indy begged me to stay away from the heads (at least as far as oversized valves), said theres no point, the stock heads will support 100hp with standard sized valves, and recommended a set of pistons (in lieu of decking the heads)

two guys that I *really* trust the opinions of, and 2 completely different directions to go.


(also open to other cam suggestions, i'm willing to do the research, but it seems every time I google one set of specs, i find 4 more manf's who make a similiar cam)


current supporting mods:
mikuni hsr42
Dyna2000P ignition module
dyna single fire ignition coil
Supertrapp 2:1 (backordered, will be here oct 16th)
a/m air cleaner (high flow)....will be doing a different a/c at some point, still trying to find one I like that DOESNT have the head breathers built in (already have those VTA with a small filter)...dont wanna take a new $200+ intake and take a dremel to it


bikes a 98 FLHRCI (converted to carb)

 

Just remember that Dyno figures don't always make for a good street bike, EV27 pulls well until 5,600 on the street, red line is at 5,300 anyway so changing up around 4,500 makes sense anyway.....people forget what a Harley really is...its a Tourer...talk to people who use the cams you want to find out about actually on the street....a rapid tail off in power on a Dyno run is not always a huge hole in the powerband on the road.

I personally find "Dyno Racing" a bit strange....might as well just measure each others ******* but that's just my opinion, I tune a lot of Evo and TC bikes and spend most of my time convincing people to go with a lower state of tune than they ask for simply because what they want as regards rideability and the urge to have more numbers than the next guy work at odds with each other.

That's my 2 cents worth anyhow.....ask yourself why I would never go bigger than a EV27 in an Evo or a S&S 510 in a TC for bikes I own and yet I have the ability and the money to be able to do anything I want to my bikes...

Not having a go at you but I want to get across some stuff you need to know about rideable bikes and tuning....if drags and dyno's are your thing then feel free to ignore Uncle Spanners :-)

 

Just a word about comp ratios.....gas isn't going to get any better and too high a a comp ratio will cause you detonation probs.....my advice is to go with SE heads or get them ported by someone who understands why you make D shaped, smaller exhaust ports on Evo's and TCs.....make the bike breathe properly before making any other mods because headwork will make a big difference....EV46 and headwork is a nice combo.

 

oh, no interest in dyne racing, really no interest in peak HP (only mentioned because I rode my buddies Dyna, and it felt like damned near perfection to me)

headwork is definitely gonna happen, and redline (right now) is 6500rpm, which is why i'm willing to go a little bigger on the cam. All my searching keeps leading me back to the ev27 (which is why I made this thread lol).


*edit -- I know gas can be an issue. I do my best (only fill at stations that turn over gas a LOT, never fill when tankers are there (i try to check if they were there that day), and run Lucas octane booster with every tank. I've had turbo cars, and i know the havoc that crappy gas can reap on a high(er) performance build.

 

I put a 46 in a Evo for a guy who then changed it for a 27 because he missed that low down grunt.....H-D should have made the 27 the stock cam but EPA wouldn't let them ;-)

 

Spanner has a lot of good inputs. I personally would make headwork my last option if I wanted to put some serious changes in torque/horsepower. Cam first. But if you get aggressive in a cam, then you have to look at changing your valve train geometry, and then you have to look at your transmission... and then...

What I am saying, is exactly WHAT do you want? Is it speed? Is it torque? Do you ride your bike alot, or mainly bar hopping? Two up? Load?

I have a 95: EV27, 2 inch LONG SHOTS, reworked CV carb, lightweight adj. pushrods, Wiseco 10.1 pistons, and a Sporster ignition that I put in quite often. Bike hauls, pulls, and runs like a striped *** ape. PLUS, it is smooth, and I can sit on it ALL day long. Yet it IS a compromise. It does a lot well, but not one thing as good as it could. ALso, I remember the quote, "Speed is money, how fast do you want to go?"

 

Give the heads a mild tickle up dude,keep the stock valve size though, they're fine at stock.
A 5 angle valve job can make a difference too.

 

Give the heads a mild tickle up dude,keep the stock valve size though, they're fine at stock.
A 5 angle valve job can make a difference too.

 

I have a 96 Road King I did the carb conversion and the close to what your about to do. For cams start looking at a Woods W6 or W6H the later is what I'm running or Tman cams which I run in my 2011 Wide Glide 113hp/119TQ and the Tman cams are as quiet as stock. As far as Head work check out Big Boyz head porting. They are located in Maine not far from you and Bean (owner) will help you out in anyway you can imagine with your build and won't try and sell you anything. His headwork starts at 299 and then goes up for decking the heads ect. Talk to Bean and tell him Mark highly recommended Big Boyz to you. Also if you plan on getting the bike tuned it will be well worth the travel time for you to Augusta Maine 5 hours or so, and have Been dyno tune it also very reasonable rates especially carbed bikes and your bike will run the best it ever has. His dyno is very conservative so don't worry about numbers mine made 74 hp and 87 tq on his but on a dynojet 250 it made 83 hp and 97 tq so don't get caught up in numbers. Call Bean and talk to him it will be the best investment you could ever do for your build and the cheapest mod FREE so give this dude a call you will be happy you did and no I have no business ventures with them I just have used them several times now and I have never been happier and anyone else who has used them has had the same experience as myself Let us know how it goes.

 

what about EV13?
I wouldn't worry about 4500rpm - on my decker I have the lowest stock final gear ratio (from '93) and even then on highway speeds I don't go higher than 4500