alright, checked end-gap on both rings squared about 3/4 inch down bore ....coming up with .010 exactly....so, gotta do some grinding... ordered a ring filer from Jegs for about 50.00.... don't want to chance it with a hand file

also, i can't find anything on configuring the end gaps on the piston... from experience- and from what the manual states- i know the corrugated ring (expander) should be perpendicular to the wristpin and top and bottom rail rings should be opposite expander gap at 90 degrees to each other

...but a little uncertain about where compression ring gaps should go... i'm thinking each gap should be opposite each other along the wrist pin line?

sound right, men?

 

This should help.
http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_...assembly.shtml

 

thank you, Schex3x

that's a great article, indeed... but it doesn't mention how to stagger the rings, as I believe this is dependent on the brand of pistons and rings

i emailed wiseco, so hoping they'll get back to me

 

As long as they're staggered,
If 12:00 is toward the front of the engine,

Expander at 6:00
rails at 3:00 and 9:00
second ring at 6:00
top ring at 12:00

 

indeed, that seems to be the deal based on what i've been reading... brand of pistons and rings don't seem to matter

thanks so much, man!

 

We've known this for many years building/racing cars on the strip. No place to ease into one but the track...couple of 3/4 throttle passes is all it takes.

 

jsbridgew, when you break it in, use dino oil and change it at 50, 100, and 500miles.

At 1000-1500miles, you could go with your favorite syn oil.

 

Street engines and race engines are two different animals. Race engines usually have a little more clearances where it counts, this allows for a shorter break in period. Street engines are set up to minimize piston slap on start up and things like oiol consumption, etc. are important on a street engine, less important on a race engine. Race engines are usually torn down and inspected more frequently than the average street engines. That being said, you can see where some differences are. Next break-in depends on some variables, such as the aforementioned clearances, ring material, design, and cylinder finish. Chrome rings take longer to seat than cast iron and low tension take longer than standard tension.
On stagerring the ring gaps we set the two oil rins oppisite and inline with the wrist pin. The second ring is at eight o'clock, the top ring at two o'clock, with twelve being straight ahead. The important thig to remember is to keep the gaps away from the thrust surfaces and remember to stone the ends of the ring you filed to remove any burrs that were made during the filing process. Also when you put the rings in the grove make sure the can slide around and there are no burrs hangin them up. We lubricate our rings, pistons, and cylinders with tranny fluid as it leaves the least amount of carbon when it burns.
If you want to speed up the rings seating you can get some Kwick Seal from Total Seal.This is a powder that you rub into the cylinders and it promotes a good ring seal. It also will tell you if the cylinders are clean, by the color it turns!!!Hope this helps.
John

 

Not so different as you might think. The engines I speak of are of mainly the NHRA Stock Eliminator class which closely mimic your typical street driven models. Oil blow-by is even more critical with these engines vs the daily driver given the rpm ranges they are subjected to. Tear-downs and inspection frequency are merely the results of constant high rpm operation and the quest for peak performance...nothing to do with a break-in procedure. The "piston slap" you speak of is due to thermal expansion rates of different piston materials and has little to do with the rings. Been using ATF all my life as well...nothing better in my book.

 

Hastings produces piston rings for many of the aftermarket piston kits out there...A wealth of knowledge is at the link below.
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ContentDa...x?Contentid=82