ring end gap for wisecos?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 4
From: south of Boston
alright, checked end-gap on both rings squared about 3/4 inch down bore ....coming up with .010 exactly....so, gotta do some grinding... ordered a ring filer from Jegs for about 50.00.... don't want to chance it with a hand file
also, i can't find anything on configuring the end gaps on the piston... from experience- and from what the manual states- i know the corrugated ring (expander) should be perpendicular to the wristpin and top and bottom rail rings should be opposite expander gap at 90 degrees to each other
...but a little uncertain about where compression ring gaps should go... i'm thinking each gap should be opposite each other along the wrist pin line?
sound right, men?
also, i can't find anything on configuring the end gaps on the piston... from experience- and from what the manual states- i know the corrugated ring (expander) should be perpendicular to the wristpin and top and bottom rail rings should be opposite expander gap at 90 degrees to each other
...but a little uncertain about where compression ring gaps should go... i'm thinking each gap should be opposite each other along the wrist pin line?
sound right, men?
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: SE Louisiana
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 4
From: south of Boston
This should help.
http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_...assembly.shtml
http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_...assembly.shtml
that's a great article, indeed... but it doesn't mention how to stagger the rings, as I believe this is dependent on the brand of pistons and rings
i emailed wiseco, so hoping they'll get back to me
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 4
From: south of Boston
thanks so much, man!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Street engines and race engines are two different animals. Race engines usually have a little more clearances where it counts, this allows for a shorter break in period. Street engines are set up to minimize piston slap on start up and things like oiol consumption, etc. are important on a street engine, less important on a race engine. Race engines are usually torn down and inspected more frequently than the average street engines. That being said, you can see where some differences are. Next break-in depends on some variables, such as the aforementioned clearances, ring material, design, and cylinder finish. Chrome rings take longer to seat than cast iron and low tension take longer than standard tension.
On stagerring the ring gaps we set the two oil rins oppisite and inline with the wrist pin. The second ring is at eight o'clock, the top ring at two o'clock, with twelve being straight ahead. The important thig to remember is to keep the gaps away from the thrust surfaces and remember to stone the ends of the ring you filed to remove any burrs that were made during the filing process. Also when you put the rings in the grove make sure the can slide around and there are no burrs hangin them up. We lubricate our rings, pistons, and cylinders with tranny fluid as it leaves the least amount of carbon when it burns.
If you want to speed up the rings seating you can get some Kwick Seal from Total Seal.This is a powder that you rub into the cylinders and it promotes a good ring seal. It also will tell you if the cylinders are clean, by the color it turns!!!Hope this helps.
John
On stagerring the ring gaps we set the two oil rins oppisite and inline with the wrist pin. The second ring is at eight o'clock, the top ring at two o'clock, with twelve being straight ahead. The important thig to remember is to keep the gaps away from the thrust surfaces and remember to stone the ends of the ring you filed to remove any burrs that were made during the filing process. Also when you put the rings in the grove make sure the can slide around and there are no burrs hangin them up. We lubricate our rings, pistons, and cylinders with tranny fluid as it leaves the least amount of carbon when it burns.
If you want to speed up the rings seating you can get some Kwick Seal from Total Seal.This is a powder that you rub into the cylinders and it promotes a good ring seal. It also will tell you if the cylinders are clean, by the color it turns!!!Hope this helps.
John
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,158
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From: Gulf Breeze, FL
Street engines and race engines are two different animals. Race engines usually have a little more clearances where it counts, this allows for a shorter break in period. Street engines are set up to minimize piston slap on start up and things like oiol consumption, etc. are important on a street engine, less important on a race engine. Race engines are usually torn down and inspected more frequently than the average street engines. That being said, you can see where some differences are. Next break-in depends on some variables, such as the aforementioned clearances, ring material, design, and cylinder finish. Chrome rings take longer to seat than cast iron and low tension take longer than standard tension.
On stagerring the ring gaps we set the two oil rins oppisite and inline with the wrist pin. The second ring is at eight o'clock, the top ring at two o'clock, with twelve being straight ahead. The important thig to remember is to keep the gaps away from the thrust surfaces and remember to stone the ends of the ring you filed to remove any burrs that were made during the filing process. Also when you put the rings in the grove make sure the can slide around and there are no burrs hangin them up. We lubricate our rings, pistons, and cylinders with tranny fluid as it leaves the least amount of carbon when it burns.
If you want to speed up the rings seating you can get some Kwick Seal from Total Seal.This is a powder that you rub into the cylinders and it promotes a good ring seal. It also will tell you if the cylinders are clean, by the color it turns!!!Hope this helps.
John
On stagerring the ring gaps we set the two oil rins oppisite and inline with the wrist pin. The second ring is at eight o'clock, the top ring at two o'clock, with twelve being straight ahead. The important thig to remember is to keep the gaps away from the thrust surfaces and remember to stone the ends of the ring you filed to remove any burrs that were made during the filing process. Also when you put the rings in the grove make sure the can slide around and there are no burrs hangin them up. We lubricate our rings, pistons, and cylinders with tranny fluid as it leaves the least amount of carbon when it burns.
If you want to speed up the rings seating you can get some Kwick Seal from Total Seal.This is a powder that you rub into the cylinders and it promotes a good ring seal. It also will tell you if the cylinders are clean, by the color it turns!!!Hope this helps.
John
Not so different as you might think. The engines I speak of are of mainly the NHRA Stock Eliminator class which closely mimic your typical street driven models. Oil blow-by is even more critical with these engines vs the daily driver given the rpm ranges they are subjected to. Tear-downs and inspection frequency are merely the results of constant high rpm operation and the quest for peak performance...nothing to do with a break-in procedure. The "piston slap" you speak of is due to thermal expansion rates of different piston materials and has little to do with the rings. Been using ATF all my life as well...nothing better in my book.
Last edited by rickss69; Nov 30, 2012 at 10:21 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
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From: Norfolk, VA
Hastings produces piston rings for many of the aftermarket piston kits out there...A wealth of knowledge is at the link below.
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ContentDa...x?Contentid=82
http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ContentDa...x?Contentid=82
