i would check to se if the belt needs to be tightened up. loose belts chirp.

 

The first thing I did was to try to check the primary oil level. Was not able to remove the cover because someone rounded the torex head bolts trying to use an Allen wrench. One came out and I had to easy out the other two. Oil level good and oil looks good. Have to buy new bolts today for cover. Going to go with Allen heads instead of torex. Thanks for all of the input. Will continue the process.

 

Sounds like your drive belt needs adusted

 

Mine does the exact same thing when the belt is slightly loose. This is likely on start up, as the belt tightens up when the engine and primary warms up. I'd look at that first.

 

Cush drive, mine did the sqeaking whenever I made quick throttle moves like normal to full, or when I shift, or brake, any transitions from speed to slow and visa versa. I had it replace when I changed wheels and it went away....

 

Bro-
I have repaired this problem on a half dozen scoots at least, it is the exhaust makin the chirp. Usually, around the flange. When the bike cools off, it draws down and the gasket usually gets mashed out of place. When the bike gets hot, it swells up fillin the gap. It chirps on decel when the motor wheezes cuz the air is cooler coming into the motor than it is goin out.

Bliss

 

My chirping noise came from the drive belt.
I could clear it up by spraying the belt with silicon spray.
It would keep it quiet for a few hundred miles.
It got to the point where I could no longer make the noise go away.
I checked the transmission drive sprocket and found that the belt had worn the aluminum sprocket down about a quarter of an inch.
I replaced the sprocket and the noise has not returned.

 

Final Drive belt will "Chirp" if too loose. Clutch plates may chirp if pressure plate is not compressing plates. My bet is on the clutch plates. As the plates wear they become thinner and you need to adjust the center pushrod on your clutch hub to compensate. If you don't adjust the pushrod the pushrod will hold the pressure off the plates. If the plates slip they will get warm as they get warm they expand as they expand the "Chirp' stops.

Pull the derby cover, follow your manual directions for adjusting the pushrod which is dead center of the clutch hub. If I remember correctly you need to loosen the nut, spin the center out to a point with no pressure, work the clutch a few times lightly seat the center bolt and back it out 3/4 of a turn befor locking the adjuster nut. Again there should be no pressure on the pushrod when your hand is off the bclutch as this will hold the pressure off the plates.

 

I had exactly the same problem as galtjunk on my 95 FLSTC. I changed the sprocket to a steel one and also replaced the belt since it had 90,000 on it.

 

Thanks, I will make this adjustment. Can't hurt to check it.